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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2007 12:13:29 GMT
Hey guys,
I was wondering if anyone knows anything about these two steels? AISI1075 steel and XK9258S. I contacted a sword making company and they said i could choose one or the other and i have no idea what either one is. Any assistance is appreciated in the matter.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2007 16:19:21 GMT
On 1075 - Chemical analysis: Carbon 0.7 - 0.8 Manganese 0.4 - 0.7 Phosphorus 0.04 max Sulphur 0.05 max
This is a higher grade carbon steel that is valued for it's ability to achieve a good hardness (RC 55 at full harden), but tends to be more brittle in this state than the lower grades.
Good sword steel, holds a good, hard edge, will take a set on a bad cut.
On XK9258S - Not very familiar with this type of steel. I know it's a spring steel and the 92xx denotes that it has a high silicon content. Probably very similar to 9260 silicon spring steel made famous by Cheness Cutlery.
Good sword steel, holds a good, hard edge, will not take a set on a bad cut.
If you're just going to do shadow drills then it'd probably be best to shoot for the 1075. If you're going to be doing a lot of cutting and you're a beginner, or even a seasoned practioner, and want to ensure you're not going to bang up your blade irrepairably then go for the XK9258S.
Cheers, L.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2007 17:58:52 GMT
I'm a beginner and not interested in cutting (yes I know how bad that sounds on a forum of dedicated cutters) my interest is scholarly (sword styles and periods etc) which by extension means that i need a weapon with which to understand the moves and the techniques. So if shadow drills means cutting nothing but air then that is what i am after. When you say it is more brittle do you mean it is more prone to breakage? Or is that only if you are cutting with it? I have heard very good things about 9260 but 9258 would probably not be the same.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2007 18:22:04 GMT
Well, of course, it's high carbon steel. Don't think "brittle" means the same thing as stainless steel brittle. It does mean that if you are cutting targets there is a risk of breakage, as there is with any sword. Shadow cutting is just a term used to describe non-contact practice. If you're going after authenticity then I'd go with the 1075. As for the 9258 - As I said, I'm not real familiar with it. The 92 in 9258 means that it has a high silicon content. For a long time people thought too much silicon would make the sword too flexible, like a pool noodle. However, in small quanities it can be used to increase how fleixble and resiliant the blade is. I'd suggest reading some of Paul's excellent reviews on the Tenchi and Oniyuri, then on the Kaze to help you understand how a temper can still make the blade bend. I would expect that the blade performs similar to 9260. As far as handling, weight, balance, etc. They're going to be identical enough that you will not be able to tell. A trained practioner (and I don't mean myself, I mean a lot of us in general) can usually tell a spring steel blade simply because when we make a bad cut it doesn't take a set. (In other words, if I make a bad cut the blade won't bend to some weird angle and then hold it) Really, for a beginner, I'd suggest the 9258. You say you won't now, but sometime in the future you're going to look at your blade and say "Man I want to hit something with that". Hell, even if you never do intend to hit something you're still going to run the risk of messing it up some way or other. Your first blade really should be able to withstand a beating, even if you never use it to cut (I can't imagine why you wouldn't...). My opinion anyway... L.
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Post by manman on Apr 20, 2007 2:40:19 GMT
well mostly crap
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