Inexpensive/Easy wood core lined scabbards
Sept 27, 2009 20:43:08 GMT
Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2009 20:43:08 GMT
This is a inexpensive way to make decent looking wood core scabbards. It uses a 3 ply system as opposed to the standard 2 ply and requires a lot less time effort and tools to get it right. I make these for all my own swords and only have to reoil them 2x per year at the most. I have done about a hundred of these type scabbards over the past 15 years for knives of 6 1/2" up to the hand and a half pictured at the end.
This is not traditional so if your a traditionalist it may not be for you.
Materials needed:
1/4" piece of plywood
a piece of paneling big enough for the outsides of the scabbard
Sherpa (synthetic wool) I reccomend the backed kind
glue
wire nails
leather for the outside covering
First outline your blade profile on the plywood. Pay attention to the area where the blade meets the guard and include the shape of the guard if it isn't perpendicular to the blade.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts008.jpg
Useing a pencil and rule create another outline 1/4" outside the profile This particular blade had a rounded point but it works equally well with tips that come to an actual point.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts010.jpg
Once your outer outline is complete cut out your oversized blade profile. Do Not cut out the inner profile yet!
Transpose this outer profile to your paneling twice. Note: If you are makeing a scabbard for a curved blade ensure you flip the profile cutout so you get both sides.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts012.jpg
Now cut out your two outside pieces from the paneling. YOu can now also cut out the plywood inner profile piece. What you should now have are the 2 outer sandwich pieces made of paneling, the plywood core (meat of your sandwich) and the plywood profile core cutout. Do Not dispose of the profile core piece yet.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts013.jpg
Now take your profile core piece and trace it onto the back of your sherpa for each side of the inside of your scabbard. Again remember to flip the core piece over if doing a curved blade.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts014.jpg
Cut out the pieces of sherpa and glue to the insides of your panel pieces, leaving a 1/4" all the way around.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts015.jpg
Once the glue has set take a pair of sissors and cut valleys into your sherpa. If the scabbard paneling is facing vertical your valleys shoudl be horizontal.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts016.jpg
This will allow the lining to move so it actually will brush the oil on you blade when drawing and sheathing it. YOu may have to trim it all a little depending on blade thickness. This can be checked by assembling the two outer pieces with the center plywood piece and taping it or rubber banding it together and sheathing your sword.
Once it fits glue the three pieces together and clamp.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts017.jpg
Once it's assembled and set I use the wire nails to hold it more firmly, but this really isn't needed.
File and sand down your three ply core to match your desired shape. I generally leave the finished panel side out and use this as a guide to how much to take off. When there is no laminate left and no remains of the crevise I'm done.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts019.jpg
Once your core is complete you can simply cover it with leather and decorate as desired. This one is stitched up the sides but glueing works just fine.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts030.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts028.jpg
Here are a few examples:
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/1520vsfulljpeg.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picture007.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Feb01390.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/img_0550_00.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picture417.jpg
This is not traditional so if your a traditionalist it may not be for you.
Materials needed:
1/4" piece of plywood
a piece of paneling big enough for the outsides of the scabbard
Sherpa (synthetic wool) I reccomend the backed kind
glue
wire nails
leather for the outside covering
First outline your blade profile on the plywood. Pay attention to the area where the blade meets the guard and include the shape of the guard if it isn't perpendicular to the blade.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts008.jpg
Useing a pencil and rule create another outline 1/4" outside the profile This particular blade had a rounded point but it works equally well with tips that come to an actual point.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts010.jpg
Once your outer outline is complete cut out your oversized blade profile. Do Not cut out the inner profile yet!
Transpose this outer profile to your paneling twice. Note: If you are makeing a scabbard for a curved blade ensure you flip the profile cutout so you get both sides.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts012.jpg
Now cut out your two outside pieces from the paneling. YOu can now also cut out the plywood inner profile piece. What you should now have are the 2 outer sandwich pieces made of paneling, the plywood core (meat of your sandwich) and the plywood profile core cutout. Do Not dispose of the profile core piece yet.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts013.jpg
Now take your profile core piece and trace it onto the back of your sherpa for each side of the inside of your scabbard. Again remember to flip the core piece over if doing a curved blade.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts014.jpg
Cut out the pieces of sherpa and glue to the insides of your panel pieces, leaving a 1/4" all the way around.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts015.jpg
Once the glue has set take a pair of sissors and cut valleys into your sherpa. If the scabbard paneling is facing vertical your valleys shoudl be horizontal.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts016.jpg
This will allow the lining to move so it actually will brush the oil on you blade when drawing and sheathing it. YOu may have to trim it all a little depending on blade thickness. This can be checked by assembling the two outer pieces with the center plywood piece and taping it or rubber banding it together and sheathing your sword.
Once it fits glue the three pieces together and clamp.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts017.jpg
Once it's assembled and set I use the wire nails to hold it more firmly, but this really isn't needed.
File and sand down your three ply core to match your desired shape. I generally leave the finished panel side out and use this as a guide to how much to take off. When there is no laminate left and no remains of the crevise I'm done.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts019.jpg
Once your core is complete you can simply cover it with leather and decorate as desired. This one is stitched up the sides but glueing works just fine.
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts030.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picturerangerleathercrafts028.jpg
Here are a few examples:
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/1520vsfulljpeg.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picture007.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Feb01390.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/img_0550_00.jpg
i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remlingp/Picture417.jpg