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Post by chakobsa on Apr 15, 2007 15:25:01 GMT
Has any one here ever tried to make a re-enactment sword, e.g, a Paul Chen Practical Viking, "sharp & pointy"? If so what was the result?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2007 18:47:29 GMT
I'm actualy about to buy my first practical sword, I need it for some live steel action. Can you please tell me what you think about your Paul Chen Practical Viking. Where did you buy it and how much. What is the length and weight of it. How is its durability. Does the blade wobble at all. Has the hilt become loose in anyway.
Thanks
p.s. on sharpening a blunt. I have sharpened my Classic Medieval Windless sword on my own with a stone. That came out nice. A live steel blunt should have much thicker edges.... from the weights I have seen posted, 2.2 lbs, they can't be that much thicker. It is probably thick enough that you should have it machine sharpened if you really want it sharpend.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2007 22:36:05 GMT
I've never tried it, but I'll offer these thoughts on the matter: I don't see any reason you couldn't do it, but, as Tsafa mentioned, the thick edges and rounded tip would require a significant reprofiling of the entire blade (whip out the belt grinder), which, unless you have the equipment to do it yourself, could prove to be expensive enough that you'd probably be better off getting another sword that's already sharp or has minimal edges and a functional point (like a Windlass).
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Post by chakobsa on Apr 16, 2007 9:23:37 GMT
Hi, tsafa, I don't actually own one, though I was considering it as a cheap entry into sword collecting. On reflection I think that kriegschwert is probably right on the money with his assessment of the difficulties inherent in my plan. Thanks guys.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 17, 2007 5:51:19 GMT
I have a Hanwei Practical hand and half which I sharpened to become my first live beater. It is affordable and you can start off safer.
I thought it was good because I could start out with just half of one edge sharp, leaving me safer if i hit my shoulder or something.
Sharpening a practical gives you a durable sword at a lower price, rather than a lower quality sharp sword for the price.
I started with hardened steel files which took HOURS to cut down a 30 degree edge on it. Being that the practicals are already a thick blade the 30 degree edge didnt cut as well as it could. Although still a lot of fun to cull our over grown Calla Lilly population.
After about 4 hours of filing over several sessions and only having half the blade done I made up a rig for my bench grinder: I made a wooden stand which overlapped the sides of the wheel so that the sword couldnt get sucked down between the stand and the wheel. I set it up on the side of the wheel so that it offered a longer flatter face to grind with.
I then set up a bottle with a slow water drip hose on the wheel to keep the job cool and wet. This was successful as the blade never got more than warm to touch. (so as not to affect the temper)
I had a lot more fun grinding like this than sweating over the file. It is sooo much faster. Also I was able to grind at about 10 degrees giving a better cutting blade.
If you are handy in the shed, and if you are happy to have a less than perfect edge on your first beater, then go for it. Don't get me wrong, the grind is uniform and straight - just not perfect. The steel is so hard it cuts real slow and is hard to take off too much. The edge reveals its self if you just go evenly on both sides.
Being a cheap sword you won't worry so much about damging her. I even tried my hand at acid etching a pattern on the blade. All the work I put into it has left me with a very personalised sword.
If anyone can tell me how to post pictures I can show you how it ended up.
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Post by chakobsa on Apr 18, 2007 18:33:19 GMT
great post, Brenno. Thanks for the info.
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Post by manman on Apr 20, 2007 2:32:21 GMT
I would try it if i were you
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