Affordable Custom Scabbards?
Aug 26, 2009 3:53:48 GMT
Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2009 3:53:48 GMT
Actually, Slayer, that's yet another of those myths I see repeated in the sword community until I positively scream "Have any of you actually tested this empirically?"
The only rust that is of concern to a swordsman is iron III oxide, a.k.a. "red rust." This is for two reasons. Iron III oxide doesn't hold together, and in other words flakes off the surface; and it takes up more volume than iron, which breaks down the structure.
Iron II oxide, on the other hand, or "black rust," is a wholly different animal. (So to speak.) It maintains structural integrity, and takes up no more volume than iron itself. In fact, this is what rust treatments do--they convert iron III oxide into iron II oxide.
And ask any well-educated materials scientist--or craftsman in the know--what is one of the most time-honored chemicals for doing this? TANNINS. Yup, the same vilified compound in oak and leather that supposedly "rusts up your blade."
And yes, I have stored blades in all-leather scabbards. For years. True, in even the worst case scenario I eventually take them out and oil them; but in some rare cases, when inescapably in storage for a distance, this has meant over a year in an all-leather scabbard. No red rust at all.
All-leather scabbards are a somewhat bad idea, for reasons already expressed. If made the usual way the sword can cut through! (And if made with rivets they hold together, but tend to make it slow to draw a weapon as they friction-grip the sides.)
Nevertheless, I had to address this myth. It's repeated so often every time I see it it makes me want to projectile vomit.
(Which might even, I'm afraid, be in the direction of one of my swords and be an actual rust threat ...)
The only rust that is of concern to a swordsman is iron III oxide, a.k.a. "red rust." This is for two reasons. Iron III oxide doesn't hold together, and in other words flakes off the surface; and it takes up more volume than iron, which breaks down the structure.
Iron II oxide, on the other hand, or "black rust," is a wholly different animal. (So to speak.) It maintains structural integrity, and takes up no more volume than iron itself. In fact, this is what rust treatments do--they convert iron III oxide into iron II oxide.
And ask any well-educated materials scientist--or craftsman in the know--what is one of the most time-honored chemicals for doing this? TANNINS. Yup, the same vilified compound in oak and leather that supposedly "rusts up your blade."
And yes, I have stored blades in all-leather scabbards. For years. True, in even the worst case scenario I eventually take them out and oil them; but in some rare cases, when inescapably in storage for a distance, this has meant over a year in an all-leather scabbard. No red rust at all.
All-leather scabbards are a somewhat bad idea, for reasons already expressed. If made the usual way the sword can cut through! (And if made with rivets they hold together, but tend to make it slow to draw a weapon as they friction-grip the sides.)
Nevertheless, I had to address this myth. It's repeated so often every time I see it it makes me want to projectile vomit.
(Which might even, I'm afraid, be in the direction of one of my swords and be an actual rust threat ...)