Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2009 2:11:16 GMT
I am working on customizing another sword, and just finished hot peening on the pommel. I created a video showing the steps I took to complete it. The video runs about 4 minutes, and if nothing else the background music is pretty good. This is my first video, so go easy on me.. I also had to figure out how run video's from my own site. yeoldegaffers.com/the_peen.aspthanks, -gaffer
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2009 2:58:29 GMT
Excellent!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2009 3:12:04 GMT
Great work!
M.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2009 4:25:48 GMT
Great work Gaffer. That was really cool.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2009 19:35:55 GMT
Holy cow, you're my hero! Thanks a lot, that's very, very useful! +1
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2009 19:42:20 GMT
Did you leave the threads in the rounded tang or did you grind the rounded tang even?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2009 19:46:01 GMT
Thanks everyone.. It was a fun project. Did you leave the threads in the rounded tang or did you grind the rounded tang even? No I didn't but now I wish I would have. It was no big deal, but as I was grinding the excess down I would sometimes run into a thread that would come off like a burr. The threads did not "meld" together if you get my meaning. -gaffer
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2009 21:19:01 GMT
I got it ;-) Thanks!!
|
|
|
Post by brotherbanzai on Jul 15, 2009 21:50:32 GMT
Nice job. One tip though. Clamp the tang (rather than the blade) directly in a large metal vice without wood. The metal vice clamped directly on the tang will help draw heat away from the sword before it gets to the shoulder or blade. That way you'll be less likely to damage the temper.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2009 23:09:30 GMT
Nice job. One tip though. Clamp the tang (rather than the blade) directly in a large metal vice without wood. The metal vice clamped directly on the tang will help draw heat away from the sword before it gets to the shoulder or blade. That way you'll be less likely to damage the temper. Thanks for the tip.... Do you mind if I add this tip to my web page that hosts the video? -gaffer
|
|
|
Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jul 16, 2009 3:24:21 GMT
Cool, good vid (and music). It's heaps easier than trying it cold hey? Especially trying to cold peen a high carbon tang *ugh*
One other point of note. The threaded rod may be mild steel welded to the tang. Or they may have been forged and cut into the high carbon tang stock. If they are mild then they cant harden. But perhaps one does this with a non threaded tang, or the thread has been cut into the HC steel. IF it is high carbon it is worth reheating (tempering) the peen once it is fully cold, just in case it has air hardened to a degree and formed some brittle martensite. If you heat it up (through purple> dark blue>) to light blue that will temper it nicely, and keep it tougher. Theres not much action at the peen, but just in case, you know. If you know it's mild dont worry too much. The retained heat in the pommel around the welded area underneath would have probably cooled it very slowly if it got hot enough to Austentise at all. Anyway, you get what I'm saying.
|
|
|
Post by brotherbanzai on Jul 16, 2009 17:45:24 GMT
Add away gaffer
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2009 3:10:02 GMT
Great vid, gaffer. Thank you. You unwittingly answered a question for me in the vid, as well. I have exactly the same oxy/mapp torch setup, and I've always noticed I have to open the oxy valve almost full open before the flame regulates down to a fine point. I always thought maybe mine wasn't working right, but I see you had to make several turns on the oxy valve handle to shut yours off, so it appears mine is functioning normally. So, thanks for the unintentional help, too. ;D
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2009 14:59:12 GMT
Your my hero! I was wondering though if you could do this without shortening the tang length. Could you just replace the hex nut with a barrel nut and peen that?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2009 16:47:45 GMT
Awesome vid...thanks for the info Gaff. That is a great idea...I have a sword that I love, but it is threaded and as such, I'm afraid to really put it to use...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2009 19:53:37 GMT
I no longer have do wonder how thats done ,Thanks
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2009 23:06:22 GMT
Your my hero! I was wondering though if you could do this without shortening the tang length. Could you just replace the hex nut with a barrel nut and peen that? Thanks, Yes, depending on how long the tang extends out of the pommel. You wouldn’t want to use a nut in the sense that it is threaded as the peen wouldn’t be able to really put any pressure on the pommel. I think you are referring to what is known as a peen block. The peen block should be a snug fit but able to move on the tang so that the peen exerts pressure on the peen block and then on the pommel. The peen block is only acting like a spacer. -gaffer
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2009 0:19:35 GMT
Nice work Gaffer!
|
|