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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2009 16:45:20 GMT
--> Brendan.. maybe the Southeast Asia and Oceania Pac sort of air is too humid for Renwax to handle I'm so glad at least one other person could testify to the ineffectiveness of Renwax I mentioned. So many times, multitudes just swore by it, it seems. --> Taran, thanks for the tips.. I did noticed some patination becoming 'patchy' on some areas of the patina sword hilt parts after some months of application, it seems...... But I'm sure... maybe the patination was originally patchy the way it was, just that I failed to noticed till now.. Anyone with patination skills would like to experiment with that, and share the outcome?? ;D ;D ;D
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2009 17:10:06 GMT
hey Larry, as stated before in my early post, 3-n-1 is all I've ever used. I have 3 blued hilts in my bunch (my Armour Class mortuary - heat treated blue) , Windlass 15th c. longsword and Windlass Type 2 Schiavona that I've use Birchwood -Caseys gun blue on and had no ill effects from using the 3-n-1 oil on any of them. cheers, Bill
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2009 17:15:20 GMT
I think larry is right Bren. Actually incidentally I have never had to oil my wraith, I am rather amazed. As for what oil I use, automotive fish oil nothing better. You slather the blade in the oil then buff the oil into the blade leaving no residue but perfectly protecting the blade, works on wood as well, amazing stuff.
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Post by alvin on May 20, 2009 17:24:51 GMT
I agree with your choice Bill. I've been using 3 in One for the last few years. I wipe down my edged toys once a week with a cloth containing 3 in One and leave a light coat of the oil. Even during our six month rainy season, I have never had any problem with rust.
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2009 19:46:25 GMT
I generally use mineral oils; I got a can of that Flitz from Windlass...seems a lot like the Tuff cloth I used to use (before it dried out on me and I threw it away like a DA). No worries as of yet; but when you guys mention 'storage' - does that mean you actually put it away and don't look at/fiddle with it at all?
I haven't gotten to that point yet; I still 'play' with all of my swords at some point...
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2009 21:33:26 GMT
Ummm........
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2009 6:18:37 GMT
I think larry is right Bren. --> Blood, you have the same problem with Renwax, too? --> Alvin, I read from many articles that it's important to clean off the 'old' layer of oil before re-applying new ones so as to ensure no air particles are trapped in between 2 layers of oil, which can cause trouble Btw, you did the same to the hilt fittings, too?? Rubbing the oil soak cloth on the surface, I mean?
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2009 7:14:23 GMT
Larry: not personally but people I know who have tried it had that problem or worse. Not sure what it is though.
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Post by alvin on May 22, 2009 18:27:18 GMT
Alvin, I read from many articles that it's important to clean off the 'old' layer of oil before re-applying new ones so as to ensure no air particles are trapped in between 2 layers of oil, which can cause trouble Btw, you did the same to the hilt fittings, too?? Rubbing the oil soak cloth on the surface, I mean? Thanks for the heads-up Larry...I hadn't heard that. I have been using 3 in One on several of my swords for almost 6 years now with absolutely no problem. Some are stored in their scabbards....some of the scabbards are leather, some are steel, and, lastima, the others have no scabbards. The finishes have remained in the condition in which I received them. The cloth that I use in this procedure is not dripping with the oil. I apply a light coat, usually once a week. I also wipe down the hilt fittings. There may be problems in using 3 in One oil on swords. But it will most likely be a problem that will face my descendants who are in possession of my swords later on in this century, if they continue to use 3 in One oil.
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2009 18:35:35 GMT
those are some sweet looking hilts there Bill....i know baby oil is scented mineral oil..is this ok to use on blades?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 3, 2009 22:55:31 GMT
I use REM oil. What's good for guns should be good for swords I spray it on the blade, then wipe off the excess with a paper towel.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 3, 2009 23:03:35 GMT
3 in 1 seems to work well for me
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Post by Deleted on Aug 4, 2009 21:02:40 GMT
I voted "other". I use Militec oil on my swords and firearms. If I'm going to store a sword or firearm for a long period of time (months or more) without handling them then I use Militec grease. Grease or oil I apply a thin layer and buff clean with a cotton cloth. Once done there's no visible residue on the blade or firearm but its still well protected and lubed. Rust? Never had an issue with rust since I found Militec. I love the smell of Militec - something about its scent makes me all warm and fuzzy inside. Maybe its because its what all my nice toys smell like... 1 14 oz tube of militec grease can last a LONG time even with multiple weapons being cleaned and protected on a regular basis. Same goes for the oil and its price is quite reasonable.
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