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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2009 1:39:53 GMT
Okay, just wondering what folks think is the best oil for using on a sword when it is time for storage. I normally use mineral oil myself, but just wondering what other forum dwellers thought.
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Post by YlliwCir on May 17, 2009 2:47:55 GMT
I've used a lot of different stuff, mineral oil, carnuba wax, renwax, tuffcloth ect.. These days I keep an old tuffcloth in a plastic baggie, I spray it with mineral spirits and silicone once in a while. Sometimes I spray the silcone directly on the sword and wipe it down with a rag. No worries.
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2009 3:15:00 GMT
i use lanotec on mine. havent had any problems. even use it on my bows.
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ecovolo
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Post by ecovolo on May 17, 2009 5:49:05 GMT
Mineral oil and/or silicone spray.
--Edward
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2009 8:12:31 GMT
Just curious.. are there different types of 'Mineral Oil'?
The tiny bottle of Choji oil in my Japanese Sword Maintenance Kit is depleting & I was in the process of ordering one online; then I saw this store indicated "Mineral Oil Low Viscosity, Food Grade" <-- is this safe to be used on swords, in particular, folded steel katana?
Thanks~
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ecovolo
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Post by ecovolo on May 17, 2009 21:38:30 GMT
Just curious.. are there different types of 'Mineral Oil'? I'll admit, I don't know. I usually just head down to the local drugstore and pick up the one that says "Mineral Oil: Lubricant/ Laxative" . It's what a kenjutsu practioner buddy of mine recommended, and what I've used since then . --Edward
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2009 23:37:21 GMT
Just curious.. are there different types of 'Mineral Oil'? I'll admit, I don't know. I usually just head down to the local drugstore and pick up the one that says "Mineral Oil: Lubricant/ Laxative" . It's what a kenjutsu practitioner buddy of mine recommended, and what I've used since then . --Edward That's what I have traditionally gotten, which is apparently the "cosmetic grade" of mineral oil. Since the question was asked I did a quick search and found this at www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=classification_of_lubricantsOther websites mention that the cosmetic grade of Mineral Oil is So now we know.
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Post by sicheah on May 18, 2009 0:12:23 GMT
For long period storage, renaissance wax aka renwax. Surely they are expensive, but once applied, you can forget about it (I think?).
I don't know the cheapest price for renwax but I think ebay has some for pretty decent price.
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2009 0:59:59 GMT
i use 2-cycle engine oil but i dont know any better
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2009 2:56:33 GMT
lanolin oil, kinda traditional its what they would of used long ago, the smell of it and steel just stirs something in me and hey never had problems with it, or vasoline/petroleum jelly for long term that seems to be keeping it okay.
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Post by chrisosborne on May 18, 2009 19:51:16 GMT
Singer sewing machine oil. It's a light weight, high quality mineral oil.
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2009 20:51:09 GMT
And knowing is half the battle! Anyway, I use gun oil applied with a silicone gun cloth.
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2009 0:15:26 GMT
For long term storage renwax all the way. For every week oiling (I live in an area that makes metal rust quickly) I started to use kleen bore rust guardit oil. It sprays on evenly and with a light spray you can just spray and leave it on there.
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2009 0:56:56 GMT
I use 3-in-1. Works fine. Never had any rust. During the winter it's pretty dry inside the house, with the heating, so it's good at that level. And here, in Quebec, it's looong winters...summers are pretty humid thought...but short. And knowing is half the battle! Anyway, I use gun oil applied with a silicone gun cloth. Knowing is half the battle! I use to watch that show everyday after school back in the days! Hehehe!
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2009 7:18:35 GMT
For long period storage, renaissance wax aka renwax. Surely they are expensive, but once applied, you can forget about it (I think?). I don't know the cheapest price for renwax but I think ebay has some for pretty decent price. Strangely.. Renwax never works for me, somehow I've more than half a can left... So... those cosmetic type of Mineral Oil can be used to prevent rust on blade?
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2009 7:26:44 GMT
I use 3-in-1. Works fine. Never had any rust. During the winter it's pretty dry inside the house, with the heating, so it's good at that level. And here, in Quebec, it's looong winters...summers are pretty humid thought...but short. Yea.. I used 3-in-1, too, and have a healthy stockpile of it as it once ran out-of-stock in SG. My only concern is - since '3-in-1' is suppose to ' clean, protect and lubricate' and, I have a couple of swords with hilt that have been blued or 'patinized' by previous owner. Thus wouldn't using '3-in-1' on these surfaces also removes these surface finishes, I thought! So, I'm looking toward mineral/choji oil as alternative.. Anyone wish to clarify on this??
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2009 12:09:21 GMT
For long period storage, renaissance wax aka renwax. Surely they are expensive, but once applied, you can forget about it (I think?). I don't know the cheapest price for renwax but I think ebay has some for pretty decent price. Strangely.. Renwax never works for me, somehow I've more than half a can left... So... those cosmetic type of Mineral Oil can be used to prevent rust on blade? Apparently, that's what a few of us have been using. Which as we found out (Knowing is half the battle.... Oi Vey I used to watch that cartoon all the time) is basically liquid vaseline. I was talking to a Kung Fu instructor here locally and he said he was using linseed oil which I thought actually promoted rust on metal. Time to add a poll I think.
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2009 12:36:19 GMT
another 3 - n -1 oil user. I've kept an old soaked sock in a Ziploc baggy for years and just wipe things down after a cutting session or just routine once a month. Never had a problem.
cheers
Bill
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2009 16:31:29 GMT
I use 3-in-1. Works fine. Never had any rust. During the winter it's pretty dry inside the house, with the heating, so it's good at that level. And here, in Quebec, it's looong winters...summers are pretty humid thought...but short. Yea.. I used 3-in-1, too, and have a healthy stockpile of it as it once ran out-of-stock in SG. My only concern is - since '3-in-1' is suppose to ' clean, protect and lubricate' and, I have a couple of swords with hilt that have been blued or 'patinized' by previous owner. Thus wouldn't using '3-in-1' on these surfaces also removes these surface finishes, I thought! So, I'm looking toward mineral/choji oil as alternative.. Anyone wish to clarify on this?? The "Cleans" part isn't talking about blueing and patinas. It's talking about carbon build-up and removing old oil in ICEs. But, when in doubt, find a part that is blued that is not normally visible, apply a little dab of the oil, and see what it does...
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 19, 2009 23:44:31 GMT
I'd put a -1 for Renwax. I bought it and gleefully slathered my whole collection only to have a rampant rust outbreak 3 weeks later, so Larry you're not alone. I also unfortunately shipped a knife out to someone slathered in renwax, and when it arrived it was rusty too. So now it only ever gets used for occasional wood, but even then Danish Oil is the best for wood.
Nope, I just use light gear oil which I have leftover, or waterproof grease but that does go quite gluey after a while. I would like to try Vaseline though, as suggested by brissy. I like grease cos I know it's not going to head south, drip, or go anywhere I dont put it. But it does go gluey, so hopefully vaseline will fix that, and smell better too.
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