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Post by wiwingti on Apr 28, 2009 15:22:40 GMT
i can assure you man that you haven't been lucky. i, personally, with one of my musha,hit my wood stand with it,, wanted to test it, and it didn't have anything. since i knew that musha class was very hard at beating. don't look at the video quality i am no good at all but at the end of that video you'll see. /index.cgi?board=cutting&action=display&thread=9730
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2009 15:37:42 GMT
Since I've heard only one other bad feedback for DF (I think it was some guy who bought a Bushi DH and discovered it had no real hamon/DH or something), I guess it's bad luck. Still pretty damn annoying.
Perhaps this is the wrong place, but on the topic of DF... Is the Bushi Kogarasu-Maru (the one at your site, the double-edged, curved pre-katana design) in Musashi theme you have with the normal Musashi tsuba or with the same 'higo' thing that the 1st generation Musha seems to have? I'm not going to buy another sword until at least well into summer, both due to finances and sourness, but eventually I'm pretty sure I will, despite this bad first experience. I don't think it'll be a DF, but I think I'll get something in the 300-high 400- range, so I'll probably still keep updated in the production sword world, hopefully not spamming as much as before.
Nice video.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2009 17:18:39 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2009 17:42:12 GMT
That may very well be.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 29, 2009 15:11:57 GMT
By the way, more about cutting, is the right way to cut to add a larger angle to your swings, or is it about not using one angle/a straight angle? Most people here have also mentioned "slicing" rather than "cutting", but my dictionary offers no differentiation. According to previous comments and Southren's video, I'm guessing the secret isn't in steps or wrist movement.
Noticed the tsuba was a little loose yesterday, yay. Not a big problem, but it moves a little when I press my thumb hard against it when unsheating the blade etc.
Feeling kinda bad about not buying from SotE now, I should look for someone specifying the generation of my next sword. I was like seconds from ordering from Wiwingti or SotE when SBG got them.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2009 19:11:39 GMT
Okay, enough. Cutting with it is getting increasingly depressing... I think I'm just going to blunt the Musha and make it my iaito, save some money that way. Can I get a very makeshift, ramshackle iaito just by using some relatively rough sand/abrasive paper on the edge, or do I need to do something more sophisticated?
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Post by wiwingti on Apr 30, 2009 20:01:49 GMT
yeah you can do it that way man.
but for your blade to be nice use some soft paper at the end.
marc
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2009 20:22:35 GMT
I'm sorry to hear about your bad experience, Uncreative.
Don't think you can buy from SOTE, I tried to buy two Dynasty swords there last summer and got denied. So unless they have changed their shipping destinations, you won't. I even tried to use a shipping agent in the US, but my cards were decilned. Amost same thing with Swords Of Might, Jason would ship to Norway, but my norwegian cards were declined by the payment system.
Don't use sandpaper, use small fine files at a 90 degree angle, then smooth it with very fine sandpaper.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2009 20:23:19 GMT
Okay, enough. Cutting with it is getting increasingly depressing... I think I'm just going to blunt the Musha and make it my iaito, save some money that way. Can I get a very makeshift, ramshackle iaito just by using some relatively rough sand/abrasive paper on the edge, or do I need to do something more sophisticated? why not keep learning to cut with it until/if you blunt it? this way, if you do get the $1000 katana you have been asking about, you are less likely to damage it right away. the best way to blunt something is with a file, but on a beastly blade like this it seems a shame.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2009 20:46:14 GMT
Thanks for the advice. My Musha is hardly a beast though, unless I use excessive force there's not even a guarantee it'll cut completely through plastic. I'll use it for more practice, but I doubt I'll have any success. And I doubt I'll get a 1000$ katana, more like a Tori or a Bushi.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2009 21:04:37 GMT
Why not strop it a bit? You can get it sharp enough, and i doubt the geometry of the 1st gen clade is so different than te 2nd gen..... Don't give up too soon.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2009 21:20:19 GMT
Yeah I'm still considering that option, but I can't find any white jewelers rouge. It seems amazon.co.uk only has it in liquid form (atleast in small bottles), and I can't even find the word for it in my native language. As most of you've probably gotten the impression of, I'm a pretty preemptive person
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2009 23:33:01 GMT
Slipepasta. www.barbershop.no/barberutstyr/skjerpestropper/dovo-pasta.htmlYou got to remember the soda bottles here are at least twice, maybe trice as thick as american bottles, and the plastic are much denser. This is because the bottles are reused and not recycled. The comparable are the 0,5 l bottles of Lipton Ice Tea, 1,5 l Husholdningssaft from Rimi and the soft plastic wind shieldwiper liquid cans. It may have chipped from one of the bottles if you hit the ridge. I don't dare to cut normal soda bottles with a katana as the risk of folding the edge or chipping is high. Stropping probably won't do any good as long as it's not sharp to begin with. I'd sharpen the sword with wet sanding paper for metal, my swords became seriously sharp after I started polishing and sharpening in the same operation. Usually 1200 grit will produce a biting edge, 2000 a razor. You won't get the chip away unless you do a full polish of the , but for normal cutting it won't have much effect if just the edge is polished a little. The only thing is that it's more vulnerable when cutting hard targets. If you're interested in how to do a new sharpening with wet sand paper just drop me a PM as I don't bother to write it all here, and I write faster and more accurate in Norwegian.
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Post by wiwingti on May 1, 2009 0:43:26 GMT
some jewellers rouge get iut on ebay it will cost you 2.00 for the jew... and 2.00 for shipping. but, for the kink in the blade i don't think you'll be able to fix it with jewellers rouge man
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Post by wiwingti on May 1, 2009 0:46:38 GMT
I'm sorry to hear about your bad experience, Uncreative. Don't think you can buy from SOTE, I tried to buy two Dynasty swords there last summer and got denied. So unless they have changed their shipping destinations, you won't. I even tried to use a shipping agent in the US, but my cards were decilned. Amost same thing with Swords Of Might, Jason would ship to Norway, but my norwegian cards were declined by the payment system. Don't use sandpaper, use small fine files at a 90 degree angle, then smooth it with very fine sandpaper. why not use sand paper? i do it to sharpen and to dull a blade and it work.
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Post by wiwingti on May 1, 2009 0:47:52 GMT
Thanks for the advice. My Musha is hardly a beast though, unless I use excessive force there's not even a guarantee it'll cut completely through plastic. I'll use it for more practice, but I doubt I'll have any success. And I doubt I'll get a 1000$ katana, more like a Tori or a Bushi. it mean that you haven't been lucky man,, because it should be sharpened a bit, at least. pm sent.
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2009 1:19:24 GMT
why not use sand paper? i do it to sharpen and to dull a blade and it work. File is way faster.
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2009 12:54:03 GMT
Slipepasta. You got to remember the soda bottles here are at least twice, maybe trice as thick as american bottles, and the plastic are much denser. This is because the bottles are reused and not recycled. The comparable are the 0,5 l bottles of Lipton Ice Tea, 1,5 l Husholdningssaft from Rimi and the soft plastic wind shieldwiper liquid cans. It may have chipped from one of the bottles if you hit the ridge. I don't dare to cut normal soda bottles with a katana as the risk of folding the edge or chipping is high. I would think the sword seen by many as perhaps the most resillient katana avaible anywhere should be able to get through plastic bottles, even hard ones. I'll try a Rimi bottle, but I doubt it will be like air .
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2009 13:01:48 GMT
Resillience has nothin to do with raw cutting power- That depends a LOT more on blade geometry and your technique.
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2009 13:11:08 GMT
Sorry, I was referring to not getting chips and scratches from plastic with resillient sword.
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