Marc Ridgeway
Member
Retired Global Moderator
"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
Posts: 3,122
|
Post by Marc Ridgeway on Aug 28, 2008 21:38:06 GMT
Hello SBG family!! Long time no see.
I have just returned and have gotten my mitts on the AT 1315 SBG special. Love the sword.
I have questions about cutting, however.
The AT is sharp, and well balanced, yet I can't seem to find a comfortable cutting stroke.
I bat away light targets , such as empty 20 oz bottles. Further, the pommel bites into my wrist.
These problems are not exclusive to the 1315, but extend to my Godfried and the DN 1213 I used to own.
So tell me guys , whats the trick with cutting with these Western One-handers? Grip , stroke direction , etc.?
Some of you know me.... I have some familiarity with kats, and slaughter both heavy and light targets with them... I know the Atrim is fully capable, so... anytips?
Shooter Mike? Paul? Krieg? Ramm? anyone?
Thanks.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2008 21:45:51 GMT
Well, I'd be mightily impressed if you cut an empty bottle; all the cutting I've seen is of bottles full of water?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2008 21:51:00 GMT
Empty bottles is no light feat - you should definitely work on filled bottles to start. Edge alignment and draw are both things that are a little harder with a european sword than a japanese one(which has a built in drawing capability due to its curve).
Also note that the Atrim, while plenty sharp enough to do exactly what it's designed to do, and do it well, isn't going to be as sharp as a good katana - which is necessary for a cutting application like an empty bottle solely because empty bottles might as well be weightless...
Edit: good to see you again.
|
|
Marc Ridgeway
Member
Retired Global Moderator
"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
Posts: 3,122
|
Post by Marc Ridgeway on Aug 28, 2008 21:53:32 GMT
Well, I'd be mightily impressed if you cut an empty bottle; all the cutting I've seen is of bottles full of water? I do it routinely with all my katana, and had some limited success with the old Dirty "Dawg 1213. You should see the video of the single sheet of newspaper rolled into a tube and cut with a wak... Its all about blade allignment and tip speed... any tips to help with my skills with western swords?
|
|
Marc Ridgeway
Member
Retired Global Moderator
"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
Posts: 3,122
|
Post by Marc Ridgeway on Aug 28, 2008 21:58:37 GMT
Empty bottles is no light feat - you should definitely work on filled bottles to start. Edge alignment and draw are both things that are a little harder with a european sword than a japanese one(which has a built in drawing capability due to its curve). Also note that the Atrim, while plenty sharp enough to do exactly what it's designed to do, and do it well, isn't going to be as sharp as a good katana - which is necessary for a cutting application like an empty bottle solely because empty bottles might as well be weightless... Edit: good to see you again. Hello Adam , great to see you as well. I am trying to draw cut , to the best of my limited experience with straight blades, but will take your advice and try filled bottles for now. Any thoughts on the pommel biting the wrist? Is this just part of it, or should I be gripping differently?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2008 22:08:01 GMT
If it's biting into your wrist, there are two solutions: Wear a glove is the first.
Second, euro single-handers require a different grip than japanese swords or euro two-handers. The wrist isn't 'on top' of the grip. You have to let the pommel slip by your hand. Gripping slightly tighter with the thumb itself and less with the pinky and the muscly pad that comprises the base of the thumb. I'll see if I can't get a picture up.
|
|
Marc Ridgeway
Member
Retired Global Moderator
"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
Posts: 3,122
|
Post by Marc Ridgeway on Aug 28, 2008 22:09:49 GMT
Thank you, Adam.
|
|
|
Post by randomnobody on Aug 28, 2008 22:10:08 GMT
Wow, my typing isn't where it used to be. The previous two posts weren't up yet when I started this one. What sort of grip are you using? I'm only familiar with two types that are referred to as the hammer and the handshake grip most commonly. The former being a straight fist wrapped around the grip, as one would hold a hammer, the latter more like...you guessed it, a handshake. Try alternating between the two to find which works best for you. That or try moving your hand up or down if you have the room. If all else fails, wear a glove. As to cutting...well, practice, practice, practice.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2008 22:12:54 GMT
Thanks, I wondered this as well.
|
|
Marc Ridgeway
Member
Retired Global Moderator
"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
Posts: 3,122
|
Post by Marc Ridgeway on Aug 28, 2008 22:18:31 GMT
Hey Randomnobody, I think I am using a hammer grip, wil try the handshake and see
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2008 22:51:53 GMT
Hey Marc, good to see you again! I think most of the important parts have already been covered but I just thought I'd suggest that if you continue to have problems perhaps a small clip of your cutting technique (and/or pictures of how you grip the sword) could help with suggestions.
|
|
Marc Ridgeway
Member
Retired Global Moderator
"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
Posts: 3,122
|
Post by Marc Ridgeway on Aug 28, 2008 22:58:04 GMT
Hey Marc, good to see you again! I think most of the important parts have already been covered but I just thought I'd suggest that if you continue to have problems perhaps a small clip of your cutting technique (and/or pictures of how you grip the sword) could help with suggestions. Good to see you as well! I'll try to do that though I must say I will be embarassed, I have no technique with euros, I'm trying to apply JSA technique , one-handed. I just discovered the training threads , think I'll do a little euro-cutting 101 research.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2008 23:16:38 GMT
Well if it helps, one of the period masters (I can't remember who) suggests to use a technique like there's a thread attached to the tip of your sword and the target and the thread is pulled toward the target. I have found that this works quite well (ending in long point) and is similar to a cue I have heard from JSA... probably from reading SFI... which is to 'throw the tip'.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2008 23:35:02 GMT
The phrase you're referencing is found in the Dobringer manual. It's mentioned in a particular context - that of the blades already being in contact and moving - it's subtly different attacking from guard.
Throwing the tip is a good analogy. The best version of it relates that for overhead cuts(either diagonal or vertical) you should have a feeling of 'scraping the roof' with the tip of your sword. This will maximize your extension, build in some draw, and also be very smooth.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2008 2:04:57 GMT
I had the same problem with my 1315 when I first got it. I needed to adjust my grip, and this sword kind of forced me to do it. Guys chime in if this looks like bad form. Basic handshake grip.Angled, not strangling the sword. The Windup. This is over my right shoulder, where the overhand cut originates. Here is about where I'm hitting the target. Shot is angled different. Note the pommel is crossing my wrist instead of digging into my palm. This is fully extended, as it would be behind my left shoulder on it's way back to the front I tried to follow advice I read about drawing the cut. What really worked for me though was paying attention to my grip and how my wrist turns in the cut. Holding the blade a little looser and not being fully extended at the point of contact made a huge difference for me. Hope this helps.
|
|
Marc Ridgeway
Member
Retired Global Moderator
"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
Posts: 3,122
|
Post by Marc Ridgeway on Aug 29, 2008 2:24:04 GMT
Wow , very helpful. Karma up. Very nice tutorial and pictures... and nice dress up job on that aTrim as well.
|
|
|
Post by randomnobody on Aug 29, 2008 3:09:04 GMT
Indeed, that looks great. Did you make a thread on that here? Is that rayskin?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2008 3:15:10 GMT
|
|
|
Post by randomnobody on Aug 29, 2008 3:39:14 GMT
Thanks, somehow missed that one.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2008 9:52:51 GMT
The phrase you're referencing is found in the Dobringer manual. It's mentioned in a particular context - that of the blades already being in contact and moving - it's subtly different attacking from guard. Hey Adam, Thanks for referring me back to that text, I have a terrible memory! I guess I should have said cord or string! Later on in 22R it specifically mentions the thread example you're referring to.
|
|