|
Post by markus313 on Jun 23, 2019 16:58:11 GMT
Oh well, my technique sucks big time. But hey, the season has just begun. The stand is self-made. This is the stock edge on 14 mm beech, wrapped with (soaked) newspaper and four layers of cotton. Rolled the paper first and then drenched it for a short time. After examining the target I found out that about two thirds of the paper at the inside of the roll were still dust-dry. One rookie-mistake amongst many
Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by zabazagobo on Jun 24, 2019 7:45:16 GMT
Fun! Rough time with the target though. That cotton appeared rather resilient to the cut, a fine buffer. I find it only appropriate that the cotton should be plaid so as to exacerbate frustration for an English styled sword
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Jun 24, 2019 9:12:06 GMT
Lol, yes. Perhaps highlighted with some bagpipe sounds next time Tbh, I suspect the dry newspaper was the hard part. Will try again later with the paper soaked thoroughly, with and without cotton.
|
|
|
Post by zabazagobo on Jun 24, 2019 20:39:08 GMT
Oh yeah, dry paper is not an easy material. I recommend any aspiring knights on a budget to utilize phone books in lieu of plate mail.
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Jun 24, 2019 22:11:59 GMT
Lol, didn’t we have at some time had a thread about tire armor ? Anyways, I’m getting a bit frustrated with this blade… Some takeaways from today’s cutting session…
Wet paper without clothing is much easier (surprise), but the blade got bent (again, see here:
So you can blame that on technique (or lack thereof) or whatever, but at the end I strongly suspect there’s something majorly wrong with the heat treatment. The blade takes a set very easily when getting stuck and twisted (after taking a closer look I saw the blade got bent in multiple places along its length) – and can get bend back into shape very easily, too. It also got bent on a block of thickly covered Styrofoam (laying on the floor, so no give to it) when it failed to penetrate the wool that block was covered with on a thrust (see link above). It took getting beaten with an ash pole during a "parrying test" very well, though.
Now the stuff I did to this blade does not come close to 10% the roughness I put other blades through, such as a CS 1917 saber, several CS cutlass Machetes or a Kawashima longsword, for example.
ATM I'm reading up on how to cut and re-thread a sword tang, thinking about mounting a Hanwei bastard sword replacement blade on this CS’s hilt (in absence of any nice mass-production backsword blades). It may take some time still, but this blade's death is there to come.
Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by zabazagobo on Jun 25, 2019 5:35:38 GMT
Re: Heat Treatment, it would seem so, and that's a bummer. If the blade flexes the way it does and then sets in such a manner, seems like it might've been botched.
The remount idea is a good one, I do like the thought of seeing how a Hanwei tinker blade would work with this grip...part of me is intrigued by the prospect of using a 'viking style' blade with this hilt, that would be pretty awesome.
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Jun 25, 2019 17:24:43 GMT
Re: Heat Treatment, it would seem so, and that's a bummer. If the blade flexes the way it does and then sets in such a manner, seems like it might've been botched. The remount idea is a good one, I do like the thought of seeing how a Hanwei tinker blade would work with this grip...part of me is intrigued by the prospect of using a 'viking style' blade with this hilt, that would be pretty awesome. Yes, an H/T Viking blade on that hilt would look really attractive. Leaning a bit towards the non-fullered bastard ATM, but we’ll see…
Tested another one of my three exemplars today. This one has thinner foible than the first one, it’s the medium-weight of the bunch. It fared much better than the heavy one. The camera doesn’t capture a straight line on video, so I’ve tried to make some pics after testing. The blade is still dead straight, no bends, no twisting, nothing. And still sharp, still slices 80 g copy paper easily (perhaps a bit loss of sharpness at the very tip). Added some electrical tape at the pommel before testing, to prevent the potential loss of a guard-bar screw. Turned out to not be necessary. After testing, you can feel the handle twisting just a little bit around the tang. After this what I’d call medium-rough testing I’m so far pretty satisfied with this one and feel a bit relieved after the rather huge let down with the first one.
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on Jun 25, 2019 17:43:59 GMT
Superdry... a continental European Matt Easton?!?!
Great vids and data, and of course good cutting. Still not sure which backsword I want to go for when the time comes. The hanwei scottish backsword and CS mort are close.
|
|
|
Post by zabazagobo on Jun 25, 2019 19:05:24 GMT
Phew! That is a massive relief, this one seems like it was tempered much better. You really weren't very gentle with it and it held up really well. I know some of my favorite swords for form practice/kata (those folded Hanweis) would be in a seriously sorry state after these sort of impacts. It's nice having a sword that can cut, handle impacts, and isn't super delicate. For the next round I'd weigh down the stand so it's anchored in place easier. Could also make the cuts easier. But even the material you use is a solid test of the blade, it's no water jug that's for sure.
Edit: Also forgot to mention that toss at the end, hilarious. "Eh, we're done"
|
|
|
Post by zabazagobo on Jun 25, 2019 19:10:41 GMT
Superdry... a continental European Matt Easton?!?! Great vids and data, and of course good cutting. Still not sure which backsword I want to go for when the time comes. The hanwei scottish backsword and CS mort are close. The thread I made asking about the Windlass schiavona had a mini discussion on morts vs. baskets you might enjoy perusing. I think mortuary hilts are arguably a better choice since they offer more room for the hand to breathe and more than adequate protection. Plus this one is quite a deal lighter weight than the Hanwei (3 lb for a 1 handed sword isn't as friendly as 2.5 lb). They both have lots of style to them, that's for sure.
|
|
|
Post by elbrittania39 on Jun 26, 2019 3:17:02 GMT
A true man of Silver English backsword is neat, Ive tried implementing it when sparring singlestick
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Jun 26, 2019 9:05:04 GMT
Superdry... a continental European Matt Easton?!?! Great vids and data, and of course good cutting. Still not sure which backsword I want to go for when the time comes. The hanwei scottish backsword and CS mort are close. Thanks, Jordan. My main gripes with the Hanweis is that they’re too heavy in the hilt resp. too light in the blade, for my taste. Still good swords per se, no doubt. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Jun 26, 2019 9:10:52 GMT
Phew! That is a massive relief, this one seems like it was tempered much better. You really weren't very gentle with it and it held up really well. I know some of my favorite swords for form practice/kata (those folded Hanweis) would be in a seriously sorry state after these sort of impacts. It's nice having a sword that can cut, handle impacts, and isn't super delicate. For the next round I'd weigh down the stand so it's anchored in place easier. Could also make the cuts easier. But even the material you use is a solid test of the blade, it's no water jug that's for sure.
Edit: Also forgot to mention that toss at the end, hilarious. "Eh, we're done" Yes, I suspect the way they heat treat suits the thin blades better.
Will try weighing down the stand some next time, that’s a good suggestion.
…Sooo which blade to put on the CS’s hilt..? I can buy replacement blades for the EMSHS, the viking, the longsword and both fullered and non-fullered bastard swords… Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Jun 26, 2019 9:12:03 GMT
A true man of Silver English backsword is neat, Ive tried implementing it when sparring singlestick Yeah, gold for the champions, Silver if you wanna live
|
|
|
Post by zabazagobo on Jul 1, 2019 18:43:38 GMT
Phew! That is a massive relief, this one seems like it was tempered much better. You really weren't very gentle with it and it held up really well. I know some of my favorite swords for form practice/kata (those folded Hanweis) would be in a seriously sorry state after these sort of impacts. It's nice having a sword that can cut, handle impacts, and isn't super delicate. For the next round I'd weigh down the stand so it's anchored in place easier. Could also make the cuts easier. But even the material you use is a solid test of the blade, it's no water jug that's for sure.
Edit: Also forgot to mention that toss at the end, hilarious. "Eh, we're done" Yes, I suspect the way they heat treat suits the thin blades better.
Will try weighing down the stand some next time, that’s a good suggestion.
…Sooo which blade to put on the CS’s hilt..? I can buy replacement blades for the EMSHS, the viking, the longsword and both fullered and non-fullered bastard swords… I mean, the second one down just looks like this hybrid basket hilt and sidesword with a lot of reach and bite, so it's hard to resist that conceptually. Which one is that? The bastard blade? I know the Tinker series tends to be lightweight, just might make sure the feel of the balance won't be totally weird
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on Jul 1, 2019 21:03:48 GMT
Very good cutting, and impressive that it went through the cloth. Many folks on the various FB boards are under the impression that cloth will stop everything short of hair popping sharp blades.
Great data on the two blades behaving so differently.
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Jul 1, 2019 21:15:01 GMT
Yes, I suspect the way they heat treat suits the thin blades better.
Will try weighing down the stand some next time, that’s a good suggestion.
…Sooo which blade to put on the CS’s hilt..? I can buy replacement blades for the EMSHS, the viking, the longsword and both fullered and non-fullered bastard swords… I mean, the second one down just looks like this hybrid basket hilt and sidesword with a lot of reach and bite, so it's hard to resist that conceptually. Which one is that? The bastard blade? I know the Tinker series tends to be lightweight, just might make sure the feel of the balance won't be totally weird Yes, the non-fullered bastard. Went and ordered. Should my assumptions/calculations not be totally off, I should end up with something around (or slightly under) 3 pounds and a pob of around (or slightly under) 4.5” with ̴ 40.5" overall. Not too bad in my book and considering the somewhat limited options at my budget. Now if Hanwei would offer a (reasonably priced) replacement blade for their Scottish Backsword, I would've jumped on that immediately.
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Jul 1, 2019 21:26:48 GMT
Very good cutting, and impressive that it went through the cloth. Many folks on the various FB boards are under the impression that cloth will stop everything short of hair popping sharp blades. Great data on the two blades behaving so differently. Thank you, Jordan. Well, I was aiming to add some good amount of draw to those strikes. Not particularly happy with my technique, though. First of all those wide strikes with stepping are of course rather rarely landed in sparring (not that it doesn’t happen) and second my alignment with the left-right is still quite off (amongst other things). Surely having always something to work on makes for large parts of the fun.
Not only did the thicker foible tended to take a set, but the thinner foible was noticeably easier to cut with against those light-to-medium weight targets, for reasons of quicker acceleration and creating less drag in the target material, I suppose.
|
|
|
Post by zabazagobo on Jul 1, 2019 23:21:24 GMT
Very good cutting, and impressive that it went through the cloth. Many folks on the various FB boards are under the impression that cloth will stop everything short of hair popping sharp blades. Great data on the two blades behaving so differently. I think a lot of that might have to do with Skall's videos, with some extrapolating from a limited footage sample. I don't understand it either... Too bad Skallagrim doesn't test katana, they'd cut through gravity and pommels
|
|
|
Post by zabazagobo on Jul 1, 2019 23:22:59 GMT
I mean, the second one down just looks like this hybrid basket hilt and sidesword with a lot of reach and bite, so it's hard to resist that conceptually. Which one is that? The bastard blade? I know the Tinker series tends to be lightweight, just might make sure the feel of the balance won't be totally weird Yes, the non-fullered bastard. Went and ordered. Should my assumptions/calculations not be totally off, I should end up with something around (or slightly under) 3 pounds and a pob of around (or slightly under) 4.5” with ̴ 40.5" overall. Not too bad in my book and considering the somewhat limited options at my budget. Now if Hanwei would offer a (reasonably priced) replacement blade for their Scottish Backsword, I would've jumped on that immediately. Great, I think that will be a great fit, reviewing the specs. A mortuary hilt sidesword (more or less what this approximates) sounds all sorts of awesome, look forward to seeing how it comes together.
|
|