|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Apr 14, 2018 8:44:20 GMT
Sorry, only a very short review: Bought it with my own money! I wanted a lightweight, fast and agile arming sword and I really got one. It handles comparable to my Hanwei Banshee, still any questions? It's not an expensive sword and there are three little cons due to this fact: It has a secondary bevel, not striking, perhaps I'll smooth it later. The crossguard had a few mm rotary play in the wide open blade slot. Nothing I would consider as a structural problem, pommel, handle and blade were tight and the guard had no play in any other direction of the sword. I fixed it with some epoxy in the gap, it's completely tight now. The tip rattled a bit in the scabbard, fixed it too. Edit: After a few days I recognized two other flaws: The pommel isn't aligned exactly and the grip isn't sitting exactly under the crossguard. All in all I'd say the fittings are sub Windlass. Nothing that makes the sword dangerous or problematic, but cosmetic flaws. The pommel seems to be peened with visible hammer marks, but I'm not sure if it's not only a fake peen. The peen is small and ends in the pommel, no mushroom head. bpogue from CAS Iberia explained in a post below that it's a real peened sword. Measures: Lenght: overall 87 cm, blade 71 cm Weight: sword 888 g, scabbard 254 g Blade Thickness/Distal Taper: base 5,5 mm, 1/2 blade 4 mm, before tip 2 mm Blade Width: base 5,5 cm, 1/2 blade 3,8 cm, before tip 1,5 cm POB: 10 cm from base, COP: 42 cm from base Pictures: I (edit: still) really like this sword! Summary: Pros: - incredible light, fast and agile sword - good distal taper Cons: - many cosmetic flaws - secondary bevel
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Apr 14, 2018 10:34:55 GMT
I use UHU Hart. Had to do this only one time before with my Windlass Raptor. Too bad that I have no Windlass XIV to compare with. My DSA Medieval Knight is heavier but a better stiff thruster. The KA tip is very thin, like on my H/T EMSHS, I'm not sure how it works in thrusting against a gambeson. The DSA might pierce through mail I guess. The XIVs were primarily cutters still. My Norman and my EMSHS are sluggish compared to the KA XIV, even the Cutlass Machete is. The Banshee and my CS Navy Officer's Sword are in the same division. The realtive short XIVs can be carried vertically hanging from your belt and you can attach a buckler. I think that's ideal for a dedicated sidearm, may be as an EDC sword or for soldiers who carried a bow or a polearm as primary weapon. The KA XIV would be my Civilisation Breakdown Sword for the moment.
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Apr 14, 2018 14:49:58 GMT
Good quick review. I like the comparisons.
|
|
|
Post by howler on Apr 14, 2018 21:18:28 GMT
Sorry, only a very short review: Bought it with my own money! I wanted a lightweight, fast and agile arming sword and I really got one. It handles comparable to my Hanwei Banshee, still any questions? It's not an expensive sword and there are three little cons due to this fact: It has a secondary bevel, not striking, perhaps I'll smooth it later. The crossguard had a few mm rotary play in the wide open blade slot. Nothing I would consider as a structural problem, pommel, handle and blade were tight and the guard had no play in any other direction of the sword. I fixed it with some epoxy in the gap, it's completely tight now. The tip rattled a bit in the scabbard, fixed it too. The pommel seems to be peened with visible hammer marks, but I'm not sure if it's not only a fake peen. The peen is small and ends in the pommel, no mushroom head. Measures: Lenght: overall 87 cm, blade 71 cm Weight: sword 888 g, scabbard 254 g Blade Thickness/Distal Taper: base 5,5 mm, 1/2 blade 4 mm, before tip 2 mm Blade Width: base 5,5 cm, 1/2 blade 3,8 cm, before tip 1,5 cm POB: 10 cm from base, COP: 42 cm from base Pictures: I really like this sword! A comparison to the Windlass (my order might show up Monday, btw) would be very interesting, as that Kingston is just shy of 2 pounds, which is incredibly light, so I imagine a speed demon. Must be 1/2 to 3/4 pound weight difference between the two, even though the Windlass is a 3/4" shorter and the POB looks to be similar. That Kingston looks like a really good sword and ideal for carry.
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Apr 14, 2018 22:48:51 GMT
Yeah, speed kills. I exaggerate now but there's a difference between twisting a 2 lb steel globe and a broad 3 lb dumbbell despite both have the same POB. I've seen real medieval swords in museums and they have thin blades with distal taper. Exceptions prove the rule. The guys in those times knew what they needed for a real fight. That's the thing with a good mass distribution and there shine the H/Ts and my KA XIV even when you have to make a tradeoff with the finish. I guess the Albions have both but I can't wait a year for a sword.
|
|
|
Post by howler on Apr 15, 2018 0:29:38 GMT
Yeah, speed kills. I exaggerate now but there's a difference between twisting a 2 lb steel globe and a broad 3 lb dumbbell despite both have the same POB. I've seen real medieval swords in museums and they have thin blades with distal taper. Exceptions prove the rule. The guys in those times knew what they needed for a real fight. That's the thing with a good mass distribution and there shine the H/Ts and my KA XIV even when you have to make a tradeoff with the finish. I guess the Albions have both but I can't wait a year for a sword. I could handle wait time. Throw in the premium price, however...gulp. I wasn't generally into longer one handed knightly/arming swords and would rather have the saber/backsword due to hand protection (though you lose a bit of balance as well as the ability to simply use the other edge instead of sharpening). But, the XIV is an intriguing type as it still keeps good cutting from earlier sword groups, yet increases thrusting capability, all in a shorter package that approaches short sword territory, kind of a gladius on steroids (and with better handle and guard).
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Apr 15, 2018 0:49:08 GMT
A XIV is not a short sword, you'll see. Not even compared to my Gen2 Maintz, which is a long short sword. That's my bubbling about mass distribution. On a short sword it could be a good idea to bring the cutting mass out, mainz, leaf blade etc. blabla. On an arming sword I want it close to my hand. Perhaps both should handle the same way, a paradoxon? Or another word for it ?? (sip)
|
|
|
Post by howler on Apr 15, 2018 1:50:36 GMT
A XIV is not a short sword, you'll see. Not even compared to my Gen2 Maintz, which is a long short sword. That's my bubbling about mass distribution. On a short sword it could be a good idea to bring the cutting mass out, mainz, leaf blade etc. blabla. On an arming sword I want it close to my hand. Perhaps both should handle the same way, a paradoxon? Or another word for it ?? (sip) Yeah, 18"-21" blade is more in line with short sword concept, but it should still be easier to swing in confined areas vs a 32", as a hybrid (I should have more accurately called it that) it should be a bit less cumbersome while hanging from a belt (but the carrying thing is only what I heard. Still, that is an amazing weight difference between the Kingston and Windlass, and I would love to analyze the handling differences, though we probably have a general idea.
|
|
bpogue
Manufacturer/Vendor
Posts: 354
|
Post by bpogue on Apr 18, 2018 13:28:22 GMT
... The pommel seems to be peened with visible hammer marks, but I'm not sure if it's not only a fake peen. The peen is small and ends in the pommel, no mushroom head. ... - possible fake peen Fake peen? No... when we started the KA project one of the design stipulations on these swords was to very slightly flair the channel in the pommel towards the end. When peened the tang fills this enlarged channel. No need for a protruding mushroom of a peen. Glad you like your sword! Blake
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Apr 18, 2018 13:58:57 GMT
Good to know! Thanks for the information!!! Review edited.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2020 17:10:14 GMT
How did you fix the tip rattle in the scabbard? I know one can shim the top, that part I can figure out, but I don't know how to fix a tip rattle.
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 3, 2020 17:19:23 GMT
I do it in a way that is usually advised against. I soak a piece of very thin cotton polishing cloth with petrol jelly and stuff it down in the scabbard. Only small pieces, not too much, until the tip rests without rattling.
|
|
|
Post by Kane Shen on Oct 5, 2020 17:15:00 GMT
Sorry, only a very short review: Bought it with my own money! I wanted a lightweight, fast and agile arming sword and I really got one. It handles comparable to my Hanwei Banshee, still any questions? It's not an expensive sword and there are three little cons due to this fact: It has a secondary bevel, not striking, perhaps I'll smooth it later. The crossguard had a few mm rotary play in the wide open blade slot. Nothing I would consider as a structural problem, pommel, handle and blade were tight and the guard had no play in any other direction of the sword. I fixed it with some epoxy in the gap, it's completely tight now. The tip rattled a bit in the scabbard, fixed it too. Edit: After a few days I recognized two other flaws: The pommel isn't aligned exactly and the grip isn't sitting exactly under the crossguard. All in all I'd say the fittings are sub Windlass. Nothing that makes the sword dangerous or problematic, but cosmetic flaws. The pommel seems to be peened with visible hammer marks, but I'm not sure if it's not only a fake peen. The peen is small and ends in the pommel, no mushroom head. bpogue from CAS Iberia explained in a post below that it's a real peened sword. Measures: Lenght: overall 87 cm, blade 71 cm Weight: sword 888 g, scabbard 254 g Blade Thickness/Distal Taper: base 5,5 mm, 1/2 blade 4 mm, before tip 2 mm Blade Width: base 5,5 cm, 1/2 blade 3,8 cm, before tip 1,5 cm POB: 10 cm from base, COP: 42 cm from base Pictures: I (edit: still) really like this sword! Summary: Pros: - incredible light, fast and agile sword - good distal taper Cons: - many cosmetic flaws - secondary bevel Having the peen sanded down is a sign of better fit and finish (see Albion swords' peens, you can barely find them), not worse. My KA Atrim-designed XIV arming sword has some visible hammer marks on the pommel too, that just shows the skills of the person doing the peen. "the grip isn't sitting exactly under the crossguard." I don't understand that statement. You mean the grip is ON TOP OF the crossguard? Also the gap between the guard and the blade is definitely smaller than the average Windlass swords. There's also no thick and rough stitching on the grip or the scabbard, unless you count that as "superior fit and finish". It's basically on par with most Hanwei fit and finish.
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 5, 2020 17:23:25 GMT
This:
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2020 0:26:18 GMT
Man, that looks way off center. That's $350 bucks?
Is that all modern technology can do?
|
|
|
Post by Kane Shen on Oct 6, 2020 21:23:38 GMT
Wow! That's jarring. Mine doesn't have that. It's flush on both sides. They have some serious QC problems it seems!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2020 17:55:37 GMT
I do it in a way that is usually advised against. I soak a piece of very thin cotton polishing cloth with petrol jelly and stuff it down in the scabbard. Only small pieces, not too much, until the tip rests without rattling. Well that worked for me. My KA type XIV started to rattle, mostly down near the tip. Blade also started to fall out of the scabbard. It didn't do that initially, but over time, it started to get loose. So I tried your solution (whether advised against or not) and it worked perfectly. It's nice and tight now. Thanks for that tip Barvarian.
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Nov 29, 2020 18:15:19 GMT
FWIW I have a Hanwei sword stick the rattled. I solved the problem by putting foam, the compressible type, in the saya. It worked for a few years. To cut a long story short the foam eventually worked its way to the bottom of the saya. I would return the sword all appeared normal but by the next morning the foam would have expanded forcing the back about ⅛”-¼”. I had a heck of a time removing the foam.
|
|