|
Post by viece on Sept 9, 2018 13:27:18 GMT
Thanks, good point. I don't have a specific example in mind at the moment, but I guess I was thinking of those examples that have a dark brown hue, maybe hints of deep red. Chocolatey. I didn't realize the second vinegar session would take away all traces of red oxidation and leave it entirely gray-black. I like it more as I look at it in different light.
Actually, on a different note, if anyone wants the scabbard I might part with that. Deepeeka makes a surprisingly nice Viking scabbard that would probably fit many makers' swords of this type. I haven't put this sword into it since I started all the rust experiments to keep from messing up the inside. It's just sitting around new. You can find the blade dimensions in any Deepeeka Hersir review.
|
|
|
Post by William Swiger on Sept 9, 2018 13:57:27 GMT
I have done a couple blades in the past like that but only to experiment on them. Most recently, bought an Albion Jarl in "new" condition that had rust on the tip and looked like it had been dropped point first. Was not horrible but had to reprofile the last couple inches of the blade. Still not perfect and my smooth file went across the blade one time on the flat and left an inch mark that would not sand out....I just did a very light treatment on the blade to age it some. When time permits will continue to do more "aging" on the blade. Can never sell this one anyway.....
|
|
|
Post by viece on Sept 9, 2018 14:09:46 GMT
You're a far more courageous man than I am, Mr. Swiger. At this stage in my collecting I will stick with the cheap stuff for patina-ing, like this Deepeeka or the sub-$100 Windlass XIV I've presented elsewhere. If I had an Albion I'd be afraid to breathe near it, much less spray it with vinegar. Would love to see pics of the touched-up Jarl and details of treatment.
|
|