Scott
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Post by Scott on Dec 20, 2017 9:20:39 GMT
Maybe. A good shield could last for years, it all depends how much of a beating it gets and how often. It won't last forever though.
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christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Dec 20, 2017 11:43:48 GMT
If you build a 'proper' shield, it should outlast YOU. I've seen SCA/HEMA/BOTN-quality shields take hits from blunt AND sharp weapons, and still be passed from generation to generation. As quoted from a dear old friend---"Don't skimp yer armor, Laddie. It's yer arse on the line wi' it."
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Ifrit
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More edgy than a double edge sword
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Post by Ifrit on Dec 20, 2017 22:30:43 GMT
How are production shields? Such and the ones windlass offers.
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christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Dec 21, 2017 1:39:18 GMT
Don't waste money on MRL/Windlass 18ga. steel shields. Way overpriced for what they are. Go for a Lord of Battles or Get Dressed for Battle 14 or 16 gauge model, if you want a fully functional buckler-style shield. Ready to rock, right out of the box....and, you can paint them....less steel to keep polished. Just my $0.02.
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Ifrit
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More edgy than a double edge sword
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Post by Ifrit on Dec 21, 2017 2:01:57 GMT
I seen a pretty good GDFB Buckler I nearly got for xmas. It was everything I could want in a buckler
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 21, 2017 2:52:55 GMT
How are production shields? Such and the ones windlass offers. I have this Windlass shield www.museumreplicas.com/small-unpainted-shield . That I got from KoA. It was their last and MRL had none at the time. It is a sturdy shield and if anything overbuilt. I think it weighs 8-9 lb. and is 1” thick. I believe it would stop anything and that I would be the weak link. Being subjective I wish it was ½” -3/4" thick in order to save weight. After about a year, I don’t know if our humid climate had anything to do with it, but the glue holding the fabric begin letting go. I stopped the damage by pulling the fabric tight, it appeared to be shrinking, and tacked on the back side. The wood, I believe it is, was so dark that I had to drill pilot holes for the tacks to penetrate. Since the tacks I’ve had no problem and would advise tacking shortly after arrival. I like the shield.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 21, 2017 2:56:36 GMT
I seen a pretty good GDFB Buckler I nearly got for xmas. It was everything I could want in a buckler I have a 12" model of theirs. It's well built and I have no complaints. I like it. kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AB0123 . If I had to do it over I am not sure whether I'd order that or the 15" model. I thought that I had ordered the 15" but when I got around to measuring it was 12".
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christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Dec 21, 2017 3:14:24 GMT
GDFB makes good products. If I were going to buy an 'off-the-shelf' shield, I would go with them. Lord of Battles would be my second pick. GDFB clothing is first rate also. I have several of their shirts and tunics, all of which are very good quality.
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christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Dec 21, 2017 3:25:28 GMT
If I can ever catch that Windlass unpainted shield that pgandy referred to on the 'Deal of the Day' again, I just might go for it. I *could* try to make one myself, but it would probably turn to a disaster. The thoughts in my head, and the skill in my hands....two totally different things.
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Ifrit
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More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
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Post by Ifrit on Dec 21, 2017 3:49:26 GMT
How are production shields? Such and the ones windlass offers. I have this Windlass shield www.museumreplicas.com/small-unpainted-shield . That I got from KoA. It was their last and MRL had none at the time. It is a sturdy shield and if anything overbuilt. I think it weighs 8-9 lb. and is 1” thick. I believe it would stop anything and that I would be the weak link. Being subjective I wish it was ½” -3/4" thick in order to save weight. After about a year, I don’t know if our humid climate had anything to do with it, but the glue holding the fabric begin letting go. I stopped the damage by pulling the fabric tight, it appeared to be shrinking, and tacked on the back side. The wood, I believe it is, was so dark that I had to drill pilot holes for the tacks to penetrate. Since the tacks I’ve had no problem and would advise tacking shortly after arrival. I like the shield. You sold me. That's exactly the kind of shield I would want. Thanks for the suggestion
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Ifrit
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More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
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Post by Ifrit on Dec 21, 2017 3:50:01 GMT
If I can ever catch that Windlass unpainted shield that pgandy referred to on the 'Deal of the Day' again, I just might go for it. I *could* try to make one myself, but it would probably turn to a disaster. The thoughts in my head, and the skill in my hands....two totally different things. I would love to make my own. I don't trust my skill level though Hahaha
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 21, 2017 13:43:15 GMT
I have this Windlass shield www.museumreplicas.com/small-unpainted-shield . That I got from KoA. It was their last and MRL had none at the time. It is a sturdy shield and if anything overbuilt. I think it weighs 8-9 lb. and is 1” thick. I believe it would stop anything and that I would be the weak link. Being subjective I wish it was ½” -3/4" thick in order to save weight. After about a year, I don’t know if our humid climate had anything to do with it, but the glue holding the fabric begin letting go. I stopped the damage by pulling the fabric tight, it appeared to be shrinking, and tacked on the back side. The wood, I believe it is, was so hard that I had to drill pilot holes for the tacks to penetrate. Since the tacks I’ve had no problem and would advise tacking shortly after arrival. I like the shield. You sold me. That's exactly the kind of shield I would want. Thanks for the suggestion
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 21, 2017 13:48:01 GMT
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Dec 25, 2017 21:48:05 GMT
Man, that really looks nice once its painted up. What kind of paint did you use?
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Post by Verity on Dec 25, 2017 23:06:52 GMT
I’m making mine (if I ever finish it) from 16 ga. steel
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 26, 2017 2:21:47 GMT
Man, that really looks nice once its painted up. What kind of paint did you use? Flat latex. After brushing on the yellow and masking for the black I sprayed on a clear flat in hopes of preventing a bleed under. I question how effective that was. The spray is thin, but if I could have found a liquid clear flat I would have used that as it is thicker and would have sealed better. I know from previous experience that would work. I did experience a slight bleed under with the black. I was going to move the tape over about 1/32” and try the black again using a technique I am not familiar with but have seen numerous painters use when lettering. And that is to dob the paint on with a sponge or fabric (dry, almost like dry brushing) after masking. But then I stood back and took a look and decided that blue strip (blue painter’s tape) enhanced the shield and left it. The original plan was to separate the two colours with a narrower red stripe.
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Ifrit
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More edgy than a double edge sword
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Post by Ifrit on Dec 26, 2017 2:25:08 GMT
Verity: Are you gonna make it entirely from steel? Or you gonna use some sort of backing?
Pgandy: The shield looks great! I definitely want to invest in one some day
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 26, 2017 3:28:20 GMT
I’m making mine (if I ever finish it) from 16 ga. steel Wood would be quieter.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 26, 2017 3:29:50 GMT
Pgandy: The shield looks great! I definitely want to invest in one some day MRL has them on close out. Don't wait too long.
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Post by Verity on Dec 26, 2017 4:13:30 GMT
Verity: Are you gonna make it entirely from steel? Or you gonna use some sort of backing? Pgandy: The shield looks great! I definitely want to invest in one some day probably line with velvet or felt, but shield is entirely steel (well and some brass and such for decoration)
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