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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2008 9:01:50 GMT
Nice blade darkslyde, if you do as slav recommends I think it will turn out really nice, have a karma from me as well!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2008 20:33:18 GMT
lol i think im gunna just leave it as is and then go right into the next one....seeing as i still have over 5 feet of steel!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2008 21:03:20 GMT
Better to make each blade as good as possible, then the next blade will be even better, but each to his own .
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2008 2:25:02 GMT
i couldnt resist ;D lime juice EDIT: hey ya think i could use sculpters clay mixed with ash for a hamon???
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2008 0:04:39 GMT
Just use the furnace cement from Home Depot, SEARCH FUNCTION BOY SEARCH FUNCTION.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2008 2:43:12 GMT
lol sry sry my friend just and lots and lots and he would let me get some for free
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2008 21:41:51 GMT
well here it is finished product its not great probably going to end up redoing the handle and i didn't do the greatest job polishing the blade because i knew i was going to put it through some pretty rigorous testing (a lot of the bigger scratches are from that) and because i don't have the tools to work steel into a tsuba i had to make it out of the oak i had. high carbon steel pins I'm up to a 600 grit polish but the hamon was only visible to the camera while i was doing the 320 grit polish this is also why it looks so dirty what ya think?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2008 22:25:21 GMT
It's quite nice to be honest, it's your first knife so kudos! What I didn't like is that the handle is not straight and you should have skipped the wooden tsuba. But +1!
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slav
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Post by slav on May 1, 2008 6:54:22 GMT
HEY! That's pretty darn cool! Good job on the wrap and knots!
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 1, 2008 12:29:14 GMT
Karma from me too Darkslyde. How did you go keeping it cool on the further grind down. I have a jug of water next to the belt sander, and just dip it every couple of passes as it starts to heat up. Welcome to the club indeed.
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2008 1:31:04 GMT
thats an easy one i just started another knife but i have made about 5 "tanto" shaped knifes and im down to my last 2.5 feet of steel. i did run out and grab some furnace cement...well its rutland fireplace mortar (t'was all they had) but i cracked 3 knifes and i did get one that did not crack but the clay fell off now i have "islands" of hard spots which i think looks really cool but i dont think it will make a good knife. any suggestions?? i have heard that i could wrap it in iron wire and that would help. as i have said im gunna take a break from tantos and attempt a set of 3 throwing knives based off these design from trueswords. but i do plan to get some more steel within a week but i want to try thicker stuff...i find 1/8 a bit too wimpy. im thinking of getting either 3/16 or 1/4 what would ya suggest?
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slav
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Post by slav on May 2, 2008 1:40:59 GMT
Rutland cement is my favorite. You have to let it dry overnight, though or it will bubble up and crack off during the heat treat. Or, you could also just put it by the warm fire for about 30 minutes before quenching; which has also worked for me. As long as the edge on your "spotty" blade is hardened, it should be fine. That is actually called a hitatsura style hamon. Try polishing yours up, and see what it looks like:
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2008 11:19:20 GMT
Hey, guys. Forgive but i have a question again. I recently (actually today) bought 2 kilos of pottery clay and i immediatly got to work on my hamon. After completing my 2-3 different choji hamon on one side, a regular wave hamon on the other and i wraped it with wire to stop it from falling of during the heat treatment , i went and started the charcoal fire. Once the fire was hot, i went to grab my sword and placed into the heart of the fire. All of the sudden i heard popcorn pops. Thinking it was the fire hitting an air sac, i continued. When i pulled the sword out of the flame, most of the clay was gone and at time i realised that the popping was the clay "popping" of the sword. Now i don't know what to do... How can i counter this problem??
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2008 11:38:18 GMT
It sounds like the clay was not dry and the heat made the water break the clay. How long did you dry it for?
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Post by Dan Davis on May 4, 2008 13:17:12 GMT
Pottery clay is tricky to work with. If you read the firing procedures for green clay in a kiln you will see that it has to be brought up very slowly over a prolonged period of time. You simply cannot air-dry it enough to make it work as a yake-ire coating.
try mixing the clay with finely filtered wood ash, using about 95% ash and 5% clay. That should get you going.
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2008 16:47:13 GMT
i have used mud and ash which actually worked if u wrap it on with something
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2008 10:35:33 GMT
Ok, thanks for the infos. I used finely crushed charcoal (it's wood right?), some pottery clay and quite a few drops of water to mix it all together. Now i have a greyish green clay-ash combination. Is it supposed to be like that?
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Post by Dan Davis on May 5, 2008 12:13:02 GMT
charcoal is different from ash; ash has already been burned and charcoal (especially dust) is still volatile. Using charcoal fines your coating can catch fire and burn up, taking your blade with it.
Wood ash also has a fairly low concentration of lye which helps by forming a corrosion layer o the blade before heating. This helps the clay bond to the blade.
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2008 12:32:39 GMT
also if u get the fake charcoal...like the kinda that comes in the perfect uniform sized pieces its not all wood they like to throw in sand and other "non-wood" items in it. i used to get natural wood charcoal but i now use the fake stuff because natural wood is more messy and send sparks everywhere when adding a fresh piece.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on May 5, 2008 21:53:38 GMT
There are many good recipes for Japanese style heat-treatment clay around. Search for them. If you want to make your own clay, use a good refractory material as a base. Ground fire brick is useful as the refractory component of the clay.
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