Luka
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Post by Luka on Mar 24, 2015 17:44:30 GMT
At the beginning, for anyone interested in the history of this model of saber, I recommend reading this article from oldswords.com, it describes development, design, changes of design throughout the period of its use and history of its use: www.oldswords.com/articles/FRENCH%20LI...0Taste.pdf Mine was made in Chatellerault in 1875. If the blade was rehilted with a hilt of some other date, I wouldn't know. If it was, it was done well and during its service life. All markings visible below int he pictures.
The dimensions of mine are: Weight without scabbard: 955gr Weight of scabbard: 750gr This should be 1705gr sword + scabbard, but when I weigh them together, the scale says 1820gr. Weird. Length overall: 105cm Blade length: 91cm Scabbard length: 95cm Blade width: 31mm Thickness oft he blade: 11m at the base, 6.5mm at the middle of the blade, 3mm at the end oft he fuller, 2mm 5cm from the tip. Very dramatic distal taper as you can see.
The hilt and grip are slightly loose, probably due to both shrinkage and lack of buffalo leather between the hilt and the blade. The leather oft he grip is obviously old but not damaged and the twisted wire is only slightly loose in a few places. The blade looks like it has been sharpened for service, seen some use and dulled a bit. There are few nicks and chips on the edge in the upper half of the blade and at the back of the blade nearer to the hilt. The blade has a very nice grey patina and no active rust or deeper pitting. Scabbard is in the same condition but slightly darker. Brass of the hilt is also very nicely preserved, but has some dents and a little crack at the edge of the butt cap.
Handling of this saber is very nice. PoB is at about 16cm from the hilt, so a bit more than 6“. This PoB with low overall weight of the saber, dramatic distal taper and long blade gives this saber a nice combination of agility and cutting and striking power. The whole blade is very stiff except the tip part from the end of the fuller to the tip because the blade gets very thin there. I must confess that I don't find the twisted brass wire on the grip very comfortable and if I would change anything on this saber, I would add a backstrap to the grip and put a non twisted wire on the grip. I find that combination much more comfortable. The hilt is beautiful and elegant, and not too massive while still offering quite a bit of protection to the outer, exposed part of the hand. The peen is round and well done.
Overall, I love this saber and I think it's a very good, effective and universal design. No wonder it was in use for over 100 years. Heavy cavalry might want a more durable and reinforced tip, but for light cavalry, this design was obviously effective and durable enough. Enjoy the pictures.
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Post by William Swiger on Mar 24, 2015 17:52:31 GMT
Congratulations - I have a couple and they handle really well. Much better than my American Civil War 1840 models.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Mar 24, 2015 18:13:38 GMT
Good pick! I agree, this saber is very sweet. Btw, I agree with your feeling regarding the wire wrap. Didn't like it either and took it off on mine.
Now do what I did, sharpen it up some and give it a whirl, you'll be impressed with its performance, I guarantee that ;)
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Luka
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Posts: 2,848
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Post by Luka on Mar 24, 2015 21:21:24 GMT
I thought about sharpening, but I'm not sure I want to destroy evidence of what it looked like with its original edge and edge damage. And it might cut lighter targets even with the edge in its present state.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2015 15:16:25 GMT
With the chips and oxidation, I would actually not recommend much alternation or much cutting. There are certainly sound examples I would endorse for use but why disturb a tired warrior and take the chance of breaking the blade.
The wire is a non-issue when wearing gauntlets.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Mar 25, 2015 17:10:36 GMT
It's true, you'd have to remove a good deal of material to get nicks smoothed over enough. I'd probably still do it because I want to use my swords and I don't really consider these sabers antiques in the sense that I would want to preserve them hanging on the wall they way I'd do with a medieval sword (most likely ;)). But I can totally see how someone would feel differently.
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Luka
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,848
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Post by Luka on Mar 25, 2015 17:26:07 GMT
When I got my 1893 swedish pallasch sharpened it also had some nicks but it was unsharpened otherwise and I told the smith to sharpen it but leave nicks as they were. I might do that again. Pitting doesn't bother me, it's too shallow to damage such a thick blade.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2015 17:38:45 GMT
Nicks create stress risers. The 1822 not that thick at the edge towards the point. I guess I should just say never mind, as I obviously have no intention to convince anyone of anything. Enjoy.
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Luka
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,848
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Post by Luka on Mar 25, 2015 17:47:34 GMT
I understand what you say and I take your opinion into consideration, I know you are an experienced collector.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Mar 25, 2015 18:55:46 GMT
If you sharpen it, you need to smooth out the nicks. Edelweiss is right, they are stress risers.
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Post by Dave Kelly on Mar 25, 2015 21:58:24 GMT
The foible blade is engineered for stabbing. The point of percussion fo r cutting is about 10,5 inches down the blade, about where the fuller ends and the blade starts to turn. Light cutting in distance shouldn't be too much of a problem. The blade does not appear to have seen a great deal of use it is hard to see any torque in the line of the blade.
Good looking and condition.
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Luka
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,848
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Post by Luka on Mar 27, 2015 12:23:26 GMT
The blade is straight. No bends at all. The CoP seems to start from the end of the fuller and goes a few inches down towards the hilt. All these nicks are above the CoP, towards the tip...
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