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Post by Croccifixio on Jan 22, 2015 12:06:41 GMT
I recently bought a big longsword that has a sharp secondary bevel. Now, while I like the fact that it came sharp (paper cutting, in fact), I wanted to blend the edge and get it convex to make the blade prettier, and theoretically, lessen the chance of dulling it on a bad cut. So I went to the hardware store and bought some sandpaper (400, 600, and 800), a sharpening stone (silicon carbide), and a file. Among these three tools, which one would work for my intentions? Thanks a lot!
PS: I'm not comfortable buying a belt sander yet, since I have no place to store it. And I really don't want to ruin this sword - it's a beauty!
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Jan 22, 2015 12:51:28 GMT
I'd use the file to blent the bevel in and finish it off with the sandpaper. If the secondary bevel is very small, you can also only use the sandpaper.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Jan 22, 2015 12:58:55 GMT
I recently bought a big longsword that has a sharp secondary bevel. Now, while I like the fact that it came sharp (paper cutting, in fact), I wanted to blend the edge and get it convex to make the blade prettier, and theoretically, lessen the chance of dulling it on a bad cut. So I went to the hardware store and bought some sandpaper (400, 600, and 800), a sharpening stone (silicon carbide), and a file. Among these three tools, which one would work for my intentions? Thanks a lot! PS: I'm not comfortable buying a belt sander yet, since I have no place to store it. And I really don't want to ruin this sword - it's a beauty! I would use a rubber sanding block and the sand paper to blend the edge.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Jan 22, 2015 13:02:32 GMT
I'd use the file to blent the bevel in and finish it off with the sandpaper. If the secondary bevel is very small, you can also only use the sandpaper. I've never used a file on hardened steel thinking that the file would get dull fast. What files are you using and what is the (approx) hardness of the cutting edge of the swords you've worked on?
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jan 22, 2015 13:13:08 GMT
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Post by Croccifixio on Jan 22, 2015 13:26:08 GMT
I'd use the file to blent the bevel in and finish it off with the sandpaper. If the secondary bevel is very small, you can also only use the sandpaper. Hm, would you classify a bevel around two matchstick's length small?
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Post by MOK on Jan 22, 2015 14:20:17 GMT
I'd use the file to blent the bevel in and finish it off with the sandpaper. If the secondary bevel is very small, you can also only use the sandpaper. I've never used a file on hardened steel thinking that the file would get dull fast. What files are you using and what is the (approx) hardness of the cutting edge of the swords you've worked on? Most files are significantly harder than most knife/sword edges. (That's why they break so easily.)
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Jan 22, 2015 14:35:35 GMT
I've never used a file on hardened steel thinking that the file would get dull fast. What files are you using and what is the (approx) hardness of the cutting edge of the swords you've worked on? Most files are significantly harder than most knife/sword edges. (That's why they break so easily.) It really depends on the sword. I have my own sword blades heat treated to 58Rc, that's indeed uncomfortably hard for a file. I only use high quality files that are in the low 60s, so they are a bit harder but they do dull quite fast when filing steel of 58Rc hardness. More so on knife blades that can be a good deal harder, so I generally avoid filing there as much as possible. Sandpaper's the way to go. And very careful belt sanding. Most production swords however are much softer. Albions are in the low to mid 50s, the old Atrims were like that, too and many others are softer (Windlass, etc). While it's not EASY on the files, it's not that bad and I just prefer the much faster material removal compared to sandpaper (and a lot more controllable than when using a belt sander).
Croccifixio: generally no but a pic would help!
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Post by Croccifixio on Jan 22, 2015 14:40:21 GMT
Oops! I meant matchstick's width, not length. Will try to upload a pic tomorrow. Thanks for the help!
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Jan 22, 2015 16:06:20 GMT
Yeah, I figured you meant width. Anyway, a pic will help.
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ShooterMike
VIP Reviewer
Senior Forumite
I like swords, and my snowman did too!
Posts: 9,094
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Post by ShooterMike on Jan 22, 2015 16:26:31 GMT
I like to stick with using paper on an auto body sanding block. The blocks are pretty inexpensive, so I like having one for each grit paper I'm using. Then I label each sanding block with one grit using a sharpie. I only put the proper grit paper on each block. That way I always know which grit each block has on it when I come back to the sanding table.
I also recommend using WD-40 spray to clean the paper and for wet sanding. It helps impart a nice satin grey color to the blade and helps the paper last a bit longer.
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Post by Croccifixio on Jan 23, 2015 8:48:10 GMT
Thanks for the help everyone! I'll have to correct myself: it's just a matchstick's width (or even a bit less). Here's the pic ![](http://imgur.com/gpERS15) If the img tags don't work here's a link imgur.com/gpERS15![gpERS15.jpg](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/tMX98ssag6VyWmLXbUnC.jpg)
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Jan 23, 2015 9:05:18 GMT
Yeah, that looks pretty steep. I'd use the file to remove the "ridge" where the two bevels (primary and secondary) meet and then smooth things over with the sandpaper. To get a good finish you'l have to do lengthwise strokes at the end and remove all cross-wise scratches. If of course the blade turns out to be too hard for your file, you're down to sandpaper only but that'll take a while... especially using high grit stuff. I'd get some 180grit for that.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Jan 23, 2015 13:27:15 GMT
If you do use the sandpaper, i'd recommend aussie rabbits slick sticks.I'm reworking a hard as nails DSA gothic blade, and sandpaper is taking forever. I started with bare hands (bad idea) then switched to a block with much better results, but the "slick sticks" are soooo much easier to keep an even plane.
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Post by MOK on Jan 23, 2015 13:47:55 GMT
Yeah, I'd start with draw filing and then move on to sandpaper on a firm rubber or cork block (or a "slick stick", I've never bothered but some people swear by them). In any case, you don't want to sand with bare hands, as a rule: your hands are too soft no matter how calloused they are and it makes accidents far more likely.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Jan 23, 2015 18:26:37 GMT
I wasnt so much worried about injury, but a good point to make nonetheless. My concern was really more toward sanding a flat surface with my fingertips. There's alot of "wave" in the DSA, and to smooth it out was going nowhere that way. The slick sticks are nice for me cause they're easily controlled, cut evenly along their entire surface, and most importantly cause much less hand/finger fatigue through long sanding sessions.
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Post by MOK on Jan 23, 2015 18:39:57 GMT
Yeah, that's what I actually meant by bare hands being too soft - you need the metal to conform to the shape of your tools, not the other way around.
(Can be useful in the polishing stage, though, since at that point you're not looking to change the shape of the blade anymore, just the texture.)
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Arkhane
Member
Still figurin' this out.
Posts: 312
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Post by Arkhane on Jan 26, 2015 3:33:10 GMT
I never could get the hang of using stones. I don't like the way it looks when I use the stone, because of the crossing grinds. Also, for something like a sword, it's so much easier to maneuver the sharpener than the sharpenee, ya know. To answer the thread topic though, I only use the file for reshaping the edge grind. After that, straight sandpaper for me.
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Post by Croccifixio on Jan 26, 2015 6:41:13 GMT
Gonna go with a File to blend the bevel, and Sandpaper on a wooden block to even things out this weekend (as that's what I have and am comfortable with). Thanks for the help! I'll let you guys know what happens.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Jan 26, 2015 12:44:43 GMT
Draw filing will work well, but a good file should take it down pretty quickly. Don't be afraid to check your work often. You can create alot more work for yourself if you go to deep!! Post up some before/afters when your done.
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