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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 20, 2014 23:05:32 GMT
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Post by JGonzalez on Nov 20, 2014 23:11:27 GMT
oh, i can hardly wait to see the finished sword That bristol set up looks really good on that
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Post by Huer-Ta on Nov 21, 2014 17:53:40 GMT
Ooooooh, I like where this is going!Can't wait to see this with a grip. Definitely do a scabbard for it!
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Nov 21, 2014 19:06:32 GMT
Like others before me have said, definitely looking nice there Wes.
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Post by crazywolf on Nov 21, 2014 19:58:51 GMT
how do you think you'll keep it for yourself when you keep showing pictures of how cool it is.next thing you know you'll get a PM hey Saito how much for that long sword you put together. HA HA very nice can't wait to see it finished.any plans on bluing the blade or fitting or both.I like that sinister look of a darkened sword
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 21, 2014 20:21:31 GMT
Well if i were to receive said PM i would tell said PM'er that they are welcome to send me a bare blade to properly sharpen and mount for them
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Post by Huer-Ta on Nov 21, 2014 20:54:59 GMT
Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you Wes the Marketing Genius!
:lol:
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 21, 2014 21:04:45 GMT
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Post by Madmartigen on Nov 22, 2014 8:01:50 GMT
Looking sexy so far. Add some nicely waisted and profiled handle and you'll have a winner there. Very good choice of fittings.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 22, 2014 21:00:16 GMT
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 22, 2014 22:24:48 GMT
Wrapped the wood core in waxed cord for reinforcement. Next step the risers and leather wrap.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 22, 2014 23:09:03 GMT
ill be permanently attatching it, but it wont be via peen, it will be via a simmilar method to tge mechanical peen method tom K and Gus trim have used in the past. The guard is already a flawless super tight fit, it had to be pounded on just klike the albion ones in that how its made video, and i reshaped the tang totally to key up with the pommel. I made my own Hex nut using a coupling bolt from tractor supply then cut a Notch in it with my angle grinder so it can be screwed on with a screwdriver. my plan is to do the metal wdge thing to the pommel, put the nut in with red lock tight and crank it down as far as it will go. once thats finished i will fill in the gap at the top with molten metal and then grind it off smooth. when its finished that sword will ring like a church bell and it will never come apart until it has all rusted away :twisted:
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Post by JGonzalez on Nov 22, 2014 23:37:24 GMT
Oh man, that's even better than I expected. Nice
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Nov 23, 2014 3:24:40 GMT
Hey guys. Nice project Wes. A good looking sword. Findlithui; I'd consider back peening a guard over wedging/ shimming. A well backpeened guard can be near impossible to remove (for takedowns) :-) And it's quick and easy to do. No black arts. Though seeing what you were dealing with on that Darkslo...
I backpeen with a centrepunch which has had the tip rounded off to around a 2.5m done. I beat down thoroughly on all adjoining perimeter at the guard tang area. If it's a fullered tang you can't do that area, but just around the ends and available sides of the slot can be more than ample.
Also your pommel can have some peening around the slot to tighten it. By punching certain points around the edge of the slot you can direct how your pommel will sit on the tang, correcting any twisting it may be inclined to, making sure it aligns perfectly on the tang. I'll how I want to align your pommel, take it off sit it top down on some timber and make your punches. I punch about 1.5mm (a little under 1/16") from the edge to avoid slipping into the slot. You want to get it a little too tight, then you can just tap it into place or file it if necessary. When assembling obviously you'll still fill everything with epoxy to keep it set.
When I make my tangs I always allow an extra centimeter of tang rod past the end of the pommel which I thread, so that when assembling I back peen the guard, fill the grip with overnight epoxy, as well as the pommel slot (which has been backpeened around the slot previously, and countersunk around the peen area). Then I can tighten a nut over the pommel / hilt assembly with a fair bit of compression while the glue dries for a couple of days. Then only once everything is set strong will I hot peen the pommel. The tang threads start from 3mm above the end of the pommel so I'm not peening threaded rod. I use a spacer or a stack of washers under the nut. Grind off the thread before hot peening. 2.5mm of peening rod is ample.
Wes; When you say about filling the top of your nut with molten metal, what metal are you talking about? A low melt alloy or are you talking about braizing or welding?
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 23, 2014 11:49:19 GMT
Gonna have my uncle hit it with his welder then ill grind it all smooth like. ALso thanks for the tip about back peening i think ill give that a try in the future it sounds like a good idea
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Post by Madmartigen on Nov 23, 2014 12:04:23 GMT
The sword is coming together great! Very nice job, Saito. Also a wealth of very good information guys, thanks a lot! I am also curious what metal is being considered. Would you please make detailed pics (tutorial like) during the process? I'm sure this would be of benefit, to me at least . Pretty soon I will be doing something similar with a HT longsword blade and I plan on peening it but hot peen is out of my range so I am gathering other options so far. Molten metal sounds interesting. And cold peen? How do you do that? Watching this thread with great interest!
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Post by Bryan Heff on Nov 23, 2014 12:17:38 GMT
The first project I did I ended up cold peening the tang. It was a thick rectangle of tang and I left too much coming out of the pommel....long story short it SUCKED peening that, it ended up breaking off half way through the peening and I basically had to peen it twice. Cold peening as far as I know is just hitting it with a ball peen hammer to mushroom it over....for a long time, without heat. Took me forever...
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Post by Madmartigen on Nov 23, 2014 12:33:04 GMT
Oh I see. Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense, but I'd also be afraid of it breaking/splitting along the way. I have no idea how hard is the threaded part on H/T longswords. On the other hand Findlithui says they cold peen quite nicely, so I will have to give it a try. Still would be good to hear some hints. Sorry for derailing the thread .
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 23, 2014 19:29:22 GMT
i do not like the cold peen method personally....it takes me FOREVER just to accomplish a hot peen because i dont have oxy acet torch and Mapp just isnt good enough to be effective. as for the molten metal, your basically just having a welder weld it up then grinding it clean. I used pewter in the past once but its a very low melt material and i dont like it. It worked, but ehhh. One could try to melt copper brass or bronze, but your gonna need alot of heat and a crucible that can take said heat. Easier for me to just go to my uncle because he has a welder.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 26, 2014 2:50:07 GMT
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