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Post by justin520 on Nov 7, 2014 3:10:12 GMT
Instead of building the tsuka core from wood why not from micarta? Not scales like on tactical knives but an otherwise traditional tsuka with same, hishigami, the whole shabang. Would this stand up to a katanas use?
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Nov 7, 2014 4:02:36 GMT
Yes. Should be stronger. It's a fibre reinforced polymer, which is a good way to obtain a good strong material. Other plastics, without the fibre reinforcement, are strong enough, and micarta can be even stronger. Depending on the polymer, glue some rayskin to the outside, and it can even look traditional.
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Post by frankthebunny on Nov 7, 2014 5:18:08 GMT
How would the channels for the nakago be carved? Do you think it would absorb shock as well as wood? I'd be willing to test this out, are slabs available in any length or is this something that would have to be special ordered or made myself?
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Nov 7, 2014 5:33:17 GMT
I think the best way would be to make it yourself, around the nakago. In one piece.
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Post by justin520 on Nov 7, 2014 5:38:32 GMT
There are suppliers of good sized slabs around the web, gimme some time and I'll dig for you.
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Post by justin520 on Nov 7, 2014 5:44:54 GMT
Yeah, that's the idea, full samegawa wrap, tsukamaki, fuchi and kashira, maybe even synthetic hishigami. Also once you lacquer your ito it's just cemented to the construction.
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Post by etiennehamel on Nov 7, 2014 17:28:36 GMT
i wonder what good it would be to have synthetic hishigami when from what i've seen from antique pictures the hishigami changes shape when you do tsukamaki, making it too stiff wouldn't be good imho. i've lacquered almost all my sword's itomaki so i can vouch for the solidity of those too and it was done historically
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Post by justin520 on Nov 7, 2014 19:47:27 GMT
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Post by VicoSprite on Nov 7, 2014 23:01:05 GMT
I saw a video on the YouTubes that a dude made his own micarta out of burlap and construction paper and epoxy. Just a thought. Cheers guys, Cody
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 7, 2014 23:09:18 GMT
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Post by VicoSprite on Nov 7, 2014 23:30:24 GMT
Also, micarta is used for hard hats, so it is pretty tough. It is also used in electrical switchgear as dividers and such due to its inability to break down. After 30 or so years in less optimal environments it will get brittle. But in climate controlled area it'll last a lot longer. I think it would be an excellent project due to its properties. Cheers, Cody
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Post by frankthebunny on Nov 8, 2014 0:03:42 GMT
I have a ko katata blade that needs a new core and has no owner as of yet. I would be willing to carry out an experiment on her and see what kind of difference this would/could make. Optimally, I would want to use 3/8" x 2-3" x 10-11" slabs so I can add some sori to it. If I would be shooting for traditional, I feel 1/8" slabs would be too thin. I wouldn't substitute washi paper for hishigami since nothing else I can think of would have all the same properties. It fills whatever space you need and is easily shaped/manipulated, it molds and binds to the weave of the ito ans well as the textured surface of the samegawa and also becomes very dense and hard when packed. It would also take many, many years to break down to where it's not functional anymore.
The description states it's easy to carve, which as long as it won't damage my chisels, should work out well.
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Post by justin520 on Nov 8, 2014 0:22:40 GMT
Just wear a face mask and goggles, that stuff might not do good for your organs. If this goes well I might do this to.
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Nov 8, 2014 0:51:18 GMT
Both micarta and G10 can be very dangerous to inhale - you must use a good respirator and other protective gear. G-10 is a laminate of resin and fiberglass. Both are dangerous if inhaled for different reasons. The resin is toxic when heated and the fumes get into your lungs. Fiberglass is just that: glass. Once the glass gets into your lungs, it'll be in there forever. Many people recommend grinding G10 wet so there won't be any airborne dust. Micarta is also made out of paper, linen, or fiberglass mixed with resin, which can cause the same problems as G10 depending on its composition. In other words, use protective gear and you'll be safe.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Nov 8, 2014 1:05:10 GMT
It will blunt them faster than wood is about all
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Post by frankthebunny on Nov 8, 2014 2:22:17 GMT
Hmmm, fiberglass I can handle but toxic plastic fumes might be more of an issue for me. I have to use a respirator when I'm working with cashew lacquer or I'll have swollen glands for a week or two and chest pains and I really hate that. metal dust, wood dust, glass dust is much easier for me to avoid breathing in. I also wouldn't want to have to wet file this whole thing down to shape so I might have to rethink this one. When you say heated, are we talking from friction like sanding it or more like burning with fire or melting?
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Nov 8, 2014 2:36:17 GMT
From what I've read, friction from heavy duty sanding and/or burning the material causes fumes. Regular sanding shouldn't produce fumes but definitely will produce dust, which contains the nasty stuff too (glass).
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Post by crazywolf on Nov 8, 2014 4:42:21 GMT
interesting idea.why not take it one step further instead on of wrapping it skip all that and just rough it up for gripping.now you have something that is almost needs no care and will never come lose or unravel.while not pretty or old school if your a hard user and don't care about looks it would be great.have some choppers I've used for years and they are still going strong with those materials for grip panels.
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Post by wazikan on Nov 8, 2014 4:55:59 GMT
I Had a custom Dawson katana with micarta handles and traditional wrap. It was bad ass. Keep in mind the weight differences. And rough up the outside so it grips the same better
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 8, 2014 13:40:45 GMT
I'm only chiming in about the following because I think that I'm reading posts stating that G10 and micarta is extremely hazardous. Maybe to suggest not to use. Let me say that knife-makers have been using these resin materials for decades. Yes a good respirator and good room ventilation is important, and that the dust is hazardous. But it really isn't all that bad. Overheating the resin with aggressive grinding will not produce fumes that you'd be concerned with. Just don't set the resin on fire. Clean up the area before you remove your respirator. Wet filing or grinding really isn't necessary of you use a respirator.
I know a well respected knife/sword maker that uses industrial neoprene (for a soft core) and a resin material for the outer core to make tsuka-like grips. These grips absorb the shock and should be much more durable than wood. If you're interested I'll post a link.
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