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Post by Maat22 on Dec 8, 2014 1:08:10 GMT
yes sharp edges are almost always better than dull! most of the time dull tools are more dangerous than sharp (if you know what you are doing with them) i guess i just need to put some time into it and hone than bad boy down!
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Post by Anankai on Dec 8, 2014 1:31:17 GMT
Ok I did the honing! I used a 2000 grit sandpaper and a 12 000 grit superstone. It's sharp alright... ... e=youtu.beEDIT: How the friggin freck can I made a youtube video to show on a post? ![???](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/huh.png) ? Tried everything and it just won't work :evil:
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Post by frankthebunny on Dec 8, 2014 1:57:44 GMT
Here you go - You take the code from youtube ( ) that you get when you click share and only paste what comes after youtu.be/ between the youtube brackets. So it would look like this (only without the space I left between the b & e) [youtub e]E7mzpdwvMPE[/youtub e]
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Post by Maat22 on Dec 8, 2014 2:12:58 GMT
went a little deeper than the hair there!
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Post by Anankai on Dec 8, 2014 2:33:23 GMT
Yep that's true! I don't mind cutting myself a bit you know. You did not see the scratch I did on my forearm before that lol
Thanks a lot Josh for the youtube thingy! That wasn't too obvious to catch...
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Post by Anankai on Jan 11, 2015 18:56:48 GMT
Finally carving out the nakago chanel for the tsuka(about time...): ![Tsuka-nakago chanel.jpg](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/rdZ0vYDSxit0Pse_WyYZ.jpg) Progress: ![Tsuka-nakago chanel-2.jpg](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/5Ha_23H2a92uOVKJCiIR.jpg)
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Post by Novice_Surgery on Jan 12, 2015 3:47:22 GMT
nice, keep up the good work, did you carve the shallow half first or the deep half?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2015 4:44:34 GMT
Carving a tapered, sloping channel in a bit of wood isn't rocket science, it's pretty basic stuff for any competent woodworker, and basic wood working chisels are more than enough for carving a tsuka.
Keep your chisels shaving sharp for accurate cutting, sharpen with a whetstone or diamond stone, and look up 'scary sharp' in the wood working forums if you like! You can do the final hone on wet&dry abrasive paper placed on a glass sheet, or leather/felt wheel used with the appropriate grade of buffing compound, which is mounted on either a bench grinder or in an electric drill fastened to your bench with a purpose-built sharpening jig.
The wood grain becomes irrelevant to a greater degree if you use a dremel tool with router attachment to take out bulk of the wood in steps (as the channel for the tang gets thinner and narrower towards its end) and then cutting to the pencil line by hand with sharp chisels. The wood hardness doesn't matter much if done this way, you want a fine grained wood though because it carves more accurately and precisely. I've made a rosewood tsuka before and it came up really nice.
It's not the 'sap' that causes problems in wood, all trees have sap, that's how they transport sugars from leaves to the roots and feed themselves! It's the tannic acid in the wood that reacts with the iron in the steel and corrodes it, turning it black. Woods such as oak, walnut and mahogany contain tannic acids and as such shouldn't be in contact with bare steel.
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Post by Anankai on Jan 12, 2015 11:03:00 GMT
Thanks Blackthorn for the good tips! I agree it's not rocket science at all! But since it is my first time I didn't really know what to expect, but now I do, and it's easier than what I thought it would be. Now I think I'm going to make a separate thread on this because I feel like I'm hijacking this one. So I will create a thread on the progress in making this custom tsuka for my katana.
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Post by Maat22 on Feb 19, 2015 16:14:04 GMT
Carving a tapered, sloping channel in a bit of wood isn't rocket science, it's pretty basic stuff for any competent woodworker, and basic wood working chisels are more than enough for carving a tsuka. Keep your chisels shaving sharp for accurate cutting, sharpen with a whetstone or diamond stone, and look up 'scary sharp' in the wood working forums if you like! You can do the final hone on wet&dry abrasive paper placed on a glass sheet, or leather/felt wheel used with the appropriate grade of buffing compound, which is mounted on either a bench grinder or in an electric drill fastened to your bench with a purpose-built sharpening jig. The wood grain becomes irrelevant to a greater degree if you use a dremel tool with router attachment to take out bulk of the wood in steps (as the channel for the tang gets thinner and narrower towards its end) and then cutting to the pencil line by hand with sharp chisels. The wood hardness doesn't matter much if done this way, you want a fine grained wood though because it carves more accurately and precisely. I've made a rosewood tsuka before and it came up really nice. It's not the 'sap' that causes problems in wood, all trees have sap, that's how they transport sugars from leaves to the roots and feed themselves! It's the tannic acid in the wood that reacts with the iron in the steel and corrodes it, turning it black. Woods such as oak, walnut and mahogany contain tannic acids and as such shouldn't be in contact with bare steel. Thanks for the tannic acid info. When the wood contains acids or corrosive chemicals in it, the steel corrodes. Now to find out which of my local woods have those things in it. I would think that in the long run the hardness of the wood would be a pretty important factor. Unless you got a PERFECT fit, or not using the sword for heavy cutting, i would think that the hard wood would crack somewhere down the road with rough use. NowI am just taking here so it is not worth much..
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