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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 31, 2014 22:21:18 GMT
Dont watch this if you dont wanna see the sword lop off a deers head. It was used for food and didn't go to waste, nor was the animal tortured prior to its demise. Clean Crossbow kill. ... e=youtu.be
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Aikidoka
Member
Monstrous monk in training...
Posts: 1,452
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Post by Aikidoka on Oct 31, 2014 23:39:33 GMT
Very clean cut! And effortless, even though it appears to have cut through the middle of a vertebra.
That sword is a beast :twisted:
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 31, 2014 23:56:54 GMT
there was litterally no "shock" and the cut had no resistance, you can see where i overextended because i swung much harder than would have been needed (and i didnt swing all that hard to begin wit)
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Post by Novice_Surgery on Nov 28, 2014 15:38:12 GMT
Great cut. blade easily sailed between the disks.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 28, 2014 19:32:04 GMT
actually it Cleaved right through one of the discs :mrgreen: I cut a head off with my musashi katana years back and it sailed right in between 2 discs and made a really distinct interesting sound rather than the wet pop and crunch of the bone heard here. Brutal lmao
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Nov 29, 2014 17:32:44 GMT
Nicely done! I'd say you proved the blade geometry quite succinctly.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 29, 2014 22:41:45 GMT
\\Yeah its all about geometry on that sword, its edge is just under paper cutting sharp, but it still lops heads off without effort. i prefer the sword this way as opposed to a thin super sharp edge because its much less likely to take damage this way
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Nov 30, 2014 2:49:08 GMT
I agree, IMO a useful edge does not need to be razor sharp, heck when I had a Templar, it was dull by paper cutting standards, but breezed thru anything I put in front of it. My Reeve I put a scalpel edge on, and wellllllll that's too sharp.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 30, 2014 8:54:35 GMT
Good cutting.
Not to derail the thread too much but don't mix up sharpness and edge geometry/shape... the two are related but not the same. A 40° appleseed edge can be utterly blunt or shave-hair-of-your-face sharp. Both are exactly the same shape, only the degree of polish is different. Both are also exactly the same durability wise. Only the second one will reliably cut clothing though. A paper-cutting sharp blade will just bounce off a single layer of linen and be reduced to a blunt-trauma weapon. Naturally the same goes for a blade that's even less sharp. There is no reason for a sword to not be razor sharp (at least throughout the cutting portion of the blade). I agree that for cutting bare flesh it's not needed but people weren't running around naked back then.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Nov 30, 2014 10:48:04 GMT
nice cut ! wish we had venison here in Aussie
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 30, 2014 13:05:25 GMT
Impressive!
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 30, 2014 19:27:15 GMT
im going to have to put this to the test...now if i could find those pairs of Jeans that i cant even get 1 leg into anymore...
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 30, 2014 21:34:30 GMT
Sure, do that. I haven't done it with jeans to be honest but linen of varying thickness as that's what they wore. Jeans is pretty tough stuff too though so it could be comparable I guess. Wrap it loosely around the target (would be great to use another deer of course but newspaper rolls or so do fine, haven't tried bottles), if you stretch and fix it in place with tape it can falsify the result. Clothing moves around.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 30, 2014 21:37:42 GMT
another deer may be possible. Monday is opening day of rifle season
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 30, 2014 21:44:51 GMT
Well, that would be just grand. I demand video In that case, you could do various tests, too. Experiment with varying number of layers, try cuts, thrusts (those will go through without trouble), use different body parts. Naturally if there is a hard surface (like bone) right underneath the clothing, it's much easier for a blade to cut through the material. An anvil effect if you will. So I'd imagine it would be easier to cut jeans wrapped around a forearm (leg) compared to a torso or ribcage covered with it.
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Aikidoka
Member
Monstrous monk in training...
Posts: 1,452
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Post by Aikidoka on Nov 30, 2014 21:59:36 GMT
Oh my... If you don't mind, I'd like to get in on this one too I'll look in my closet for some old jeans. Two jean legs, two double tatami mat rolls. Mount the double mat rolls on the stand and then place the jean material on top, secured with a few rubber bands. Both edges of my Trojan sword are already paper cutting sharp. I'll get one side up to hair-popping stupid scary razor sharp for either next weekend or the weekend after that. Either way, it will be the same 40 degree edge on both sides. One will just be refined to a much greater degree. It should be interesting to see the difference .
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 30, 2014 22:06:21 GMT
That's the spirit I'll repeat again that I don't know how it'll go with jeans... I recommend using the material they had back then, linen and sheep wool. I do know that medium to heavy linen can absolutely ruin your cutting experience unless your sword is really very sharp. If it is, no more resistance than without. If it isn't most likely the sword will just bounce off or maybe leave a little gash. No idea what the result will be when using other material. Well, except leather. That stuff is worthless as protection. A barely sharp blade will cut it with ease while completely failing to do anything to linen.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Dec 1, 2014 14:49:34 GMT
Hmmm, now I have to try this. More things to ruin, yay!
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Post by Bryan Heff on Dec 1, 2014 16:14:51 GMT
This is very interesting about linen and these seemingly soft fabrics vs swords. The more I learn and read here and on other sites...this idea that certain fabrics and certain layering of fabrics provided excellent protection against cuts to Lukas' point.
I mean, I imagine people just assume that say a leather (thicker and tougher right) would provide far better protection but that may not be the case. Maybe leather would protect you a bit better from the blunt trauma but I think in this case its all about the cut and how deep that cut will be and a lot of what I have read talks about certain fabrics being a semprini to get through (assuming as Lukas mentioned its not tightly wrapped around say a piece of wood or bone etc). Look forward to seeing what you guys come up with.
This type of stuff further supports the idea that many Euro sword types probably had very sharp edges, dispelling the myth of the Euro barely sharp crowbar that was used to smash ehack and weighed 8 lbs.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Dec 1, 2014 18:18:42 GMT
Exactly. Most sword enthusiasts know that swords were absolutely not smashing crowbars but cutting (and thrusting) implements and therefore need good edge geometry and sharpness. An idea that is however still often propagated even in forums like SBG is that very sharp also means very fragile so terms like "sword-sharp" or "battle-sharp" imply that swords can be too sharp for their own good. I don't believe that to be the case. Yes, a sword can absolutely have the wrong edge geometry (for the type or use) and that can mean both too steep/blunt or too thin/fragile. But sharpness is something else... yes, it's strongly related to edge geometry but it's not the same thing. I consider sharpness more of a measure for the degree of polish than for edge shape. So I say, no, a sword can't be too sharp, it should be as sharp as possible, meaning its edge should be as highly polished and smooth as possible. That has nothing to do with durability. A 40° edge, which Peter Johnsson says is historically accurate for many sword types, can be both shaving sharp and quite blunt. Same goes for a 20° or 50° edge. What geometry and degree you chose is dependent on the sword type and its intended use. The sharpness or degree of polish however is not. I'm convinced that no matter the sword, a higher polish and therefore sharper edge is always preferable. Of course, two swords of the same sharpness can still cut with varying degree of efficiency. That's where edge shape, blade geometry, blade profile, sword weight, etc all come to play a role. But there's absolutely no reason for a sword to be less sharp than another or in fact anything but razor sharp (a term I hate, btw but you get the point).
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