TomK
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Posts: 2,377
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Post by TomK on Aug 11, 2014 22:43:35 GMT
Chenessfan is right, you have a 12th century profile on a 15th century cross section and guard. also, is this intended to be a riding sword? 28 inches is a touch on the short side, makes this almost the European equivalent of a wakizashi or kokatana.
if you where to drop a fuller into it that was 80% or more of the blade length, go lenticular/convex/apple seed with no central ridge, stretch the blade to about 31", let it distal taper down to .080, and make the guard a straight, tapering bar you could have a dandy type X. or you could go full XVIII by having edges taper towards each other just slightly until you get to about the sweet spot then taper in aggressively to an awl point
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Post by Jakeonthekob on Aug 11, 2014 23:45:14 GMT
Kool, I was thinking of making this into some sort of shorter, easy to handle sword, thus the shorter length. I also think lenticular would be the way to go as far as cutting ability and sliding through targets with relatively less disturbance to the target (since I like performance style swords lol).
If I do get a medieval sword for cutting, it'll most likely be thin lenticular type lol.
Thanks for the input guys. I'll mess around with it some more.
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TomK
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,377
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Post by TomK on Aug 12, 2014 4:15:38 GMT
Honestly cor soft targets like tatami a nice flat bevel like on a 1557 (type XVIII) with a wide profile and stiff blade is hard to beat. ridge in the. enter means lowest angle bevel. Take a look at this: /thread/18750
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Post by Jakeonthekob on Aug 12, 2014 16:40:27 GMT
whoa now that's a fast sword. Seems like that is one awesome cutter.
At some point, I would love to handle and cut with a properly made western sword. I have a Tinker hand and a half but it's torqued and I need to fix it and sharpen it. I don't think it's balanced properly but it's at least something to go off of.
Thank you Tom for your help.
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