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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Jul 23, 2014 16:04:56 GMT
I've been real busy lately and my right elbow hurts to prove it. Forging out a langsax, to me it was harder than the gladius swords. Here's the piece of steel I started with 17in long, 1 3/4in wide, 214in thick. ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1354.jpg) Foruming the point. ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1355.jpg) ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1356.jpg) Point finished. ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1358.jpg) Drawing out the tang. ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1359.jpg) ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1360.jpg) Tang Finished. ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1362.jpg) Hammered in the bevels. ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1365.jpg)
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Jul 24, 2014 14:25:26 GMT
Got the forge scale and hammer marks cleaned off the blade and ground to 50 grit before the normalized, hardening and tempering. ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1377.jpg) Also did all the heat treating it is ready to start the polishing now.
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Post by ginwulf on Jul 25, 2014 0:40:38 GMT
looks good, what style hilt will you use? wood, antler?
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Jul 25, 2014 14:14:34 GMT
Plan on using wood with a hour glass shape, just don't know what kind of wood yet. Wish I knew what kind of wood the viking used on theirs.
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Post by ginwulf on Jul 25, 2014 21:59:24 GMT
wouldn't they use yew or ash? i don't know what wood is harder or what will work better tho
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Post by etiennehamel on Jul 26, 2014 15:07:08 GMT
wasn't boxwood another plausible choice?
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Post by Jim West on Jul 26, 2014 22:31:59 GMT
Birch. Its plenty hard enough for a seax handle. And its easier to work and the figuring looks much better. If you look at knives from Scandinavian countries today you will find it everywhere. I dont know if birch is more common than ash or yew, but it is common from Finland down to Norway. That would cover most of the "viking" countries.
I would think that the harder woods such as ash would be used in primary weapons, axe, spear, that are likely to see heavy blows in combat or heavy use in every day life.
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Post by Karoliner on Jul 27, 2014 3:01:46 GMT
Yes, birch is one of the most common materials for knives from Scandinavia. Most traditional Scandinavian knives feature birch, maple, laminated birch bark, and antler of the reindeer.
However, bog oak (legitimate or imitated) would also work well for your seax.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Sept 26, 2014 15:16:10 GMT
Finally finished. Blade: steel 5160, length 18in, width at base 1 3/8in, near point 1 1/2in, thickness 3/16in. Handle: peacan turned from a tree on land, length 5 3/8in, 1/8in mild steel face plates front and back. Overall length 23 1/2in. Weight: 1lb 1 1/2oz. ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1545.jpg) ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1546.jpg) ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1547.jpg) ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1548.jpg) ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1549.jpg) ![](http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/fallenmx/DSCF1550.jpg)
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Sept 26, 2014 17:30:02 GMT
Lyndle that looks great!! My elbow would hurt too if i had to knock down 214 inches of steel thickness!! :lol: I also believe i have decided on the next nasty you'll be whipping up for me, now i just gotta get it on paper. You mentioned a two hand sword for sale a while back, and i've been unable to find any pics, is there a chance you can post a couple pics of that one for me?
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Sept 27, 2014 4:57:41 GMT
The sword is a hand and a half it's for sale in the M&V section under tactical sword. I will have another hand and a half plus a grosse messer coming out soon.
Let see your design, still don't do any thing over 33inch overall,
I got nerve damage in my right elbow a long time ago. Sometimes it doesn't hurt other times it hurts pretty bad, just suck it up and keep going. Maybe I will have a few good years left forging and grinding.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Sept 27, 2014 5:17:30 GMT
As the lady said "My you have a long one there!" love the simplistic lines and angles with a good sized grip - bravo!
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Post by Deepbluedave on Dec 6, 2014 7:56:41 GMT
Picked this one up from Big-Pete, started on 600ml water bottles and moved up to 2lt and 3lt jugs, on the diagonal cuts my edge alignment was a bit off but as I got more used to the round grip and changed to horizontal cuts it really started to shine, very easy to move and feels great in hand the slim but wide blade really sliced thru those bottles. This is the first Langsax I've ever held or cut with, so I am impressed with the results. Good job Fallen
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Post by Ninjastyle on Dec 6, 2014 18:42:48 GMT
I really want to forge as I see you making so many cool weapons
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Dec 9, 2014 5:55:04 GMT
Deepbluedave Good to hear it got a good home. Considering your collection bet it looks pretty primative setting next to them. Think I will go with a oval handle on future ones. Just liked the look of the round handle this time.
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Post by Deepbluedave on Dec 9, 2014 8:30:53 GMT
Fallen, I have it sitting next to a Rick Barrett Katana and it looks right at home, so nothing to worry about in the looks department, visually I really like the round grip and after about twenty 2lt milk jugs it did not affect the cutting, it was only on the first six or so that my alignment was a bit off, it still cut thru the bottles just not a perfect cut, if you do make some more I will pickup another in a heartbeat.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Dec 9, 2014 9:09:17 GMT
Ninjastar I started off on a piece of crap harbor frieght 55lb anvil and a home make paint can propane forge still have it both. Worked ok for smaller knives, did a couple of 12in blades on it. Have a top of the line 275lb anvil now makes a big difference. Still make all my own propane forges, why buy one when I can make one that works as well and cost alot less.
Just finished forging a anvil bricken to help form spear sockets. I'm pretty proud of it, did have to use the belt sander some to smooth it out and get it as round as I wanted.
Deepbluedave, when I do the next one thinking of 1/4in thick steel and a longer point. Not going to do as fine as point too. Is there any style you would like to see.
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Post by Deepbluedave on Dec 9, 2014 20:30:16 GMT
I think as long as the style was similar to the last one any changes to thickness or point angle would not really matter too much, changing the grip shape to a more oval would help a little on the cutting but overall I liked how the grip was waisted, made it feel secure in hand, otherwise you nailed it.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Jan 4, 2015 14:10:35 GMT
All kinds of coolness in this blade! Awesome!
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