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Post by LastGodslayer on May 21, 2014 20:18:35 GMT
I usually find it leaves my hands hurting for a week. BTW any superb file you guys wanna recommend? I got several cheap ones but I keep wondering if there is a really good manufacturer I could buy a long bastard file from that would make things easier...
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on May 21, 2014 20:31:13 GMT
When I do use files which I don't much any more since I have the Pheer PH 427 belt grinder are Nicholson, double cut for fast metal removeable and single cut to finish up some, followed by sand paper wrapped or glued a flat thin piece of wood, width depending on what I'm doing.
You could go get a Craftsman 2X42in belt sander, fit the platen with a ceramic liner and get good belts (ceramic) at trugrit. I made alot of knives on one.
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Post by LastGodslayer on May 21, 2014 20:57:36 GMT
I appreciate the suggestion but I have no more room for power tools. I mean, I'd love to get a good belt sander (I have a portable one that is good for most stuff like copper and brass parts). I'll admit I have been eying the Nicholson files for some time now. Hate how mine are all unevenly worn in the middle for some reason...
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on May 21, 2014 21:06:35 GMT
Need to stop stroking the middle so much go full length.
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Post by LastGodslayer on May 21, 2014 21:53:23 GMT
Yeah... but I mean lengthwise. Somehow the teeth are less worn on near the edges and I'm talking flat bastard files here!
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Post by brotherbanzai on May 27, 2014 20:46:42 GMT
Probably the cheap files. Cheap files make life hard. Grainger has Nicholson files fairly inexpensive. Get a smooth cut and second cut mill file for the final filing before moving on to sanding. 12" or 14" work pretty well. Some chalk will also help to keep the files from clogging up and galling your blade with a little piece of hardened steel shaving, which always sucks.
You can start forging small stuff really cheap with a small homemade forge and a simple steel block for an anvil. Stock removal is a great way to start since you need to know how to do it for your forgings later anyway.
I don't have a power hammer yet (no room) but I have access to a few through friends.
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Post by LastGodslayer on May 27, 2014 22:01:24 GMT
Thanks brotherbanzai, and everyone. Gonna get some good files thats for sure. Waitin to hear from the steel guys. Hope its not 100$ for 3 feet of steel...
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on May 27, 2014 22:21:04 GMT
If it is you need to check with Admiral steel, McMaster Carr or New Jeresy Steel Baron. Lately I've been gettingmost of the 5160 I use form McMaster Carr, a 6 ft x 2 1/2in bar 212in thick is 45.50, 250in thick 1/4in isn't much more.
You can get your files there too.
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Post by LastGodslayer on May 27, 2014 23:39:32 GMT
Thanks for the advice Fallen, but I'm waaay over here on the other side of the pond. Dealing with Bohler Uddelhom reps. They do state of the art HT and multiaxis machining, so like I said before I may not even touch the blade myself before its completed...
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on May 28, 2014 7:47:43 GMT
Ok don't thinks we knew that.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on May 28, 2014 8:07:12 GMT
Bohler make some of my favourite steel, I have made many a cleaver from S600 - Their charts are handy too www.buau.com.au/157.php
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Post by LastGodslayer on May 28, 2014 12:22:45 GMT
They do make some of the best steels available nowadays. And sorry Fallen. I forgot to mention I'm in the EU.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on May 28, 2014 13:56:00 GMT
That's ok, now I have no idea what good brands of files are aviable to you.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 28, 2014 15:28:47 GMT
I'm going to go against the grain here (pun intended) and say that I really don't enjoy forging as an activity. I dislike it. I love the control afforded me by stock removal, even in angle grinding work. Of course all that close craftsmanship can go out the window in heat treatment, but still, the better I can start it off the better my chances that accuracy may carry through to completion.
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