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Post by justin520 on Nov 22, 2013 2:17:25 GMT
Is a Himalayan imports 20 inch sirupati (15 inch blade) sufficient as both a working and fighting knife? I keep hearing that some sort of rat tail esque tang is traditional and epoxied into the blade somehow, is this sufficiently strengthy enough to chop wood and defend ones self?
All together it weighs like 1.75 pounds.
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Post by randomnobody on Nov 22, 2013 2:26:56 GMT
It'll be fine. HI blades are renowned for toughness. They're pretty heavily overbuilt as it is, hence their popularity as such. It may be a bit hefty for "fighting" but will be lighter than any other kuk shape in the same length.
I've got a KHHI sirupate in those same dimensions and like it a lot. I'm sure HI can handle the job.
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Post by justin520 on Nov 22, 2013 2:40:06 GMT
Can you move quick with it doing mat cutting and such? I know it's a bit hefty but could you train speed into use? People say even fighting kukri are heavy, the ghurkas in ww2 had heavy ones like this.
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Post by randomnobody on Nov 22, 2013 2:46:57 GMT
I haven't tried cutting anything with it, but the way I grip it lets me use a bit of wrist movement to cover angles quickly. It's probably exactly the wrong way to use a kukri, but whatever. It's kind of a spin on what I've seen referred to as the "Southeast Asian method" of chopping, holding between the thumb and forefinger with the rest of the hand loose, then using the motion of closing your hand around the grip at the bottom of the stroke to accelerate the blade.
There's debate on just how heavy actual combat kuks were, but I haven't handled any period pieces yet so I can't say. I've got the weights and such on mine somewhere, can't remember them off the top of my head right now...
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Post by justin520 on Nov 22, 2013 2:50:17 GMT
How's the construction on yours? Rivet tang or the rat tail epoxy deal (traditional)?
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Post by randomnobody on Nov 22, 2013 2:53:52 GMT
I think mine is the classical stick tang, but while I haven't seen it I'd be willing to bet it's plenty substantial, and hardly what we typically think of when we hear "rat tail" tang.
It's put together nicely, finished well, and has no wiggles. Its previous owner did some pretty rough stuff with it before selling it off, but you wouldn't know by looking at it.
Timberwolf did a nice review of a few KHHI kuks he had custom-ordered, I think both of those have the riveted sandwich tangs. I'm not sure if HI has any like this or not, I feel like they do, but I haven't looked in a while and my memory is fuzzy.
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Post by justin520 on Nov 22, 2013 2:58:37 GMT
I just want a 15 inch blade that can handle use as a wood chopper/brush cutter, and is also a sufficient weapon, tang construction ain't a big deal. Any recommendations on a specific model (not just you random (though your help is appreciated).
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Post by randomnobody on Nov 22, 2013 3:20:09 GMT
Just because, here's what KHHI has in 15": www.thekhukurihouse.com/catalog/ ... 13634f1676 www.thekhukurihouse.com/catalog/ ... 13635fecc3 www.thekhukurihouse.com/catalog/ ... 13735f1676 www.thekhukurihouse.com/catalog/ ... 3737fc5113 www.thekhukurihouse.com/catalog/ ... 3934f65111 www.thekhukurihouse.com/catalog/ ... 23035fc812 Of those, I have the sirupate; it's the one I've been talking about so far. Just a side note on that one, it's advertised as weighing 750 grams, but mine ways closer to 800 (797 to be exact) so take that into consideration. I think for "roughing it" type use I'd go with either the Defender or the X Special, but note the weights there, they're heavy. I'm thinking of getting the Chitlange, but I wouldn't use it for chopping wood. :? As for HI, here's what they've got at "about" the 15" mark: yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo. ... khola.html yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo. ... upati.html yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo.net/haangkh.htmlyhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo. ... ngesp.html yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo. ... kobra.html yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo.net/malla1.htmlOut of those, the Ang Khola will be the toughest, but also the heaviest. I kind of like the Hanuman variant, haven't seen that one until just now. I don't think the others (sirupate, Gelbu, Kobra, Malla) would be what I would consider "optimal" for camp knives or such, they're more fighting-oriented. I rather like the gelbu, and the Malla is interesting for its historic value; but I wouldn't chop wood with either. Now, just because I say I probably wouldn't do it or recommend doing it, doesn't mean I don't believe it could do it. It just means I think other shapes and sizes would be better at it, and the narrower, lighter blades would require more physical labor to produce the same result when compared to the bigger, heavier blades. However, that's kind of where the balance comes in; whether you want a tough knife that cleaves obstacles but wears you out doing so or a slimmer model that takes more swings to get places, but can be swung more easily. I haven't bothered to check out Tora, as most of their models were out of stock last time I did look them up, but I think a few members have some of their blades and no doubt they'll be along shortly (if they haven't beaten me to this post) Ultimately it comes down to whichever one you like best.
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Post by Student of Sword on Nov 22, 2013 3:24:06 GMT
Nothing wrong with stick tang. I think full tang is a bit over killed. Puukko and leuku are well known traditional bushcraft knives and they are stick tang.
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Post by justin520 on Nov 22, 2013 3:33:19 GMT
I like the chitlangi to, it looks like it has the utility knife and sharpener stick thing as well. Just to be clear you're not saying you wouldn't chop wood with because of edge damage but because it would take more work right?
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Post by randomnobody on Nov 22, 2013 3:53:29 GMT
Yeah, they strike me as geared more toward soft, squishy things and lighter work, despite their size. I have confidence my sirupate could handle fairly thick wood, and the others are virtually the same plus some extra weight, so unless the edges are much thinner (and I don't imagine they are) I'm sure they'd be just fine with wood, provided you don't go whacking any bad knots. I just feel like you'd be losing out on chopping force versus a beefier blade, but then again maybe not.
I'm reminded of sweetcostarica's comparative review of two goloks, one about half the width of the other. The wider blade has more forward balance and chopped a lot harder than the slimmer one, and he raved about it as such.
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Post by justin520 on Nov 22, 2013 4:21:09 GMT
I think for it sacrificing a bit of chopping to handle more weapon like is good.
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Post by justin520 on Nov 22, 2013 4:33:20 GMT
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Post by Pogo4321 on Nov 22, 2013 6:24:27 GMT
I would recommend the chitlangi for what you're wanting.
Get over to blade forums and register as a member. This will allow you access to the Himalayan Imports forum. Auntie often posts specials and blems there. Plus there are bunch of good folks who can give you sage advice.
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Post by randomnobody on Nov 22, 2013 13:27:08 GMT
The Jung Bahadur has been a piece I keep forgetting about and then seeing again for years. I kind of want one, but then I don't know if I like it. I'm sure it's functionally sound, just the pointy pommel bit keeps me back.
I'll just side with Pogo now and say a Chitlange should be fine, and would make me jealous. I want one, but I also want about five others. :?
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Post by Timberwolf on Nov 25, 2013 20:20:12 GMT
Hi, guys. Justin, given that the quality of an HI or Tora is equal to a KHHI, and that KHHI has the best Quality Control in the business, as well as an average HI or Tora being either 80% or 72% more than a KHHI? Including shipping?I'd say go with a KHHI. Same quality or better, and much cheaper. Yeah, I'm biased, but those are all facts, not opinions. As far as being used as a hack and chop device, as Random said, the light khuks will take the punishment just fine. You just have to work harder at it. I also know that relatively few stick tang khuks come apart (they're not really "rat tails"), but then again, I like the solid assurance of having the full tang, riveted. It's really up to you as to whether a Sirupate/Sirupana or Bhojpure/Panawal is best for you as a weapon that doubles as a tool. "Pana" being a full tang as opposed to a stick tang. Tora makes nothing but very light khuks, while both HI and KHHI make a variety of weights for each size. Of course, people make the mistake of thinking that HI only makes heavy stuff, but that is wrong. But HI is REALLY proud of their khuks, as I said. The technique Random describes is the correct one, where you swing with a slightly loose grip, then wrist-snap while grasping hard right at the end. It's the same thing that professional framers do when they "one-whack" a 3.25" 16d "sinker" nail with a 28oz rigging ax or hammer. Serious velocity, energy, and force. :lol: Finally, you probably know that everyone is busy with Christmas orders. If you're in a real hurry and don't mind paying a lot, HI usually keeps a stock in Reno, and you can get decent discount deals on seconds at the HI Cantina if you move quickly. Most of those need work, and the HI fans don't mind. BUT: If you wait 'til after New Year's, I'm going to be offering a special discount off the total price of every KHHI, including full-custom stuff. Y'all can think about that.
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Post by justin520 on Jan 6, 2014 5:40:24 GMT
Do the kukri house kukri have a visible seem on the leather scabbard and are their frogs removable?
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Post by Alex.Moranz on Jan 6, 2014 6:12:45 GMT
I have had this khukuri for a few years now and took it with me on a few deployments. www.thekhukurihouse.com/catalog/ ... 13639f1676 I had a custom kydex sheath made for it to strap to my kit. It handled fairly well to some serious abuse. I dismantled more than a few motorcycles with it as well as other targets. They are quite impressive when it comes to cutting, but as you could guess the point is not the best as penetrating as it is so thick, great for prying. I don't have a picture of it when I got back but the edge was pretty decently chipped up. Not terrible though considering what I put it through. Ended up having to re grind a whole new edge on it with a belt sander.
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Post by justin520 on Jan 6, 2014 6:34:45 GMT
I'll probably make a new scabbard with a fur inner lining to retain a bit of oil.
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Post by randomnobody on Jan 6, 2014 10:09:02 GMT
As for the sheaths, mine are stitched along the "back/inside" (the side that would be against your body in typical wearing) and the frogs/loops are not removable. Some of their modern/hybrid designs may differ, if you have any questions about changing this I hear their staff is easy to talk to. I imagine they could do a "custom" model for you with a slip-on frog rather than one permanently attached.
The fur lining is an interesting idea. I used to have a Hanwei Tactical Tanto (The old one, all metal and black everything) with a velvet or some such lining in the sheath and it did quite well for oil retention, also ease of draw. I miss that knife. KoA has listed them again, but advises that they are discontinued and "while supplies last" and as much as I want one, I can't pay the $120 they're asking when I bought my first one for $80. I feel like I overpaid then, even. :oops:
Anyway, the seam on my kuks is neat and tight, so that's not a problem unless you just don't want one, in which case I'd say do what Alex did and make a Kydex or other sheath for whichever one you end up getting.
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