Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2018 19:57:08 GMT
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Post by howler on May 23, 2018 21:32:20 GMT
The cutlasses look sweet but I'm afflicted with "Devils Paw"...a lefty, so I would use offhand (with pistol in primary), but I think could be too heavy for offhand so I'm doomed.
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2018 23:28:07 GMT
".....so I'm doomed" That goes without saying ![:P](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png)
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Post by cearball on Jun 4, 2018 13:10:03 GMT
When I looked into these before it seemed like a good replica.
I have checked the links you posted as well previously.
I messaged the seller a while ago to double check the handle was metal which he confirmed.
I think (& I can't remember where I got this info from) the main "issue" is the replicas have a few more Oz weight than an original by some 3-6 Oz .
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Post by viece on Jun 6, 2018 0:17:24 GMT
I have one of these from IMA and like it. For a $100 item it does seem solid and faithful to the pattern. I have seen the reviews saying aluminum hilt but mine is definitely steel. It started rusting immediately when I sprayed it with faux high seas salt spray and vinegar, which is what I end up doing with all my cheap replicas.... ![:)](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
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Post by cearball on Dec 24, 2018 16:32:16 GMT
Sigh
I ordered one of these.
Looks like I may have to prove it's traditionally hand forged due to UK customs.
I am 99% confident it is like most windlass/India offerings.
Any ideas how I can prove it?
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Post by markus313 on Dec 24, 2018 17:40:02 GMT
I have one of those. Much more distal taper than Windlass. Much heavier as well. Despite having rather little distal taper compared to the originals (have an antique Ames naval cutlass as well), the Windlass 1860 naval cutlass is one of my favorite repros. On the plus side, the one you ordered is well made and seems quite sturdy.
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Post by cearball on Dec 25, 2018 21:37:17 GMT
I have one of those. Much more distal taper than Windlass. Much heavier as well. Despite having rather little distal taper compared to the originals (have an antique Ames naval cutlass as well), the Windlass 1860 naval cutlass is one of my favorite repros. On the plus side, the one you ordered is well made and seems quite sturdy. I have an 1860 windlass & love the handling! Possibly my favourite sword in that regard. Nice n cheap relatively to. I intend to do a comparative review of the two if the IMA cutlass clears customs.
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Post by markus313 on Dec 26, 2018 16:07:18 GMT
I intend to do a comparative review of the two if the IMA cutlass clears customs. Hey, that`s cool! Always love to learn about other`s thoughts on blades I also handled and how they compare. Good luck on getting your cutlass soon!
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Post by cearball on Dec 29, 2018 2:48:50 GMT
![]() ![20170624_193856_crop_813x289-609x216.jpg](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/tMLyJGZPyWlizzlpzJHT.png) ![20170624_193904-1305x979-522x392.jpg](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/ADnaExMfCtcdKGwRKYoi.png) ![20170624_193912-612x816-153x204.jpg](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/nEvyySTwJqIitzygEUkD.png) ![20170624_193920-612x816-306x408.jpg](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/tGpZuatMPuELbUpvFaTT.png) ![IMG_20181228_152350435.jpg](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/AUQonmlAD0OXbirAYMdf.png) ![IMG_20181228_181357156.jpg](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/RhamIJNAeGDDHCxlDsB0.png) My cutlass finally cleared customs! Overall I am quite happy with my purchase. No obvious defects like warped blades though there was a few rust spots but they cleaned off with no real pitting. Only potential issue is the beehive on the hand guard doesn't line up with the blade & is obviously off centre, anyone know if it is meant to be that way as I can't tell from pictures? Only two of the pictures are of my cutlass the other are some nice pictures from SFI showing the replica compared to an original. I believe the article is already linked in this thread. The weight of mine matches up with the weight of others who have received this sword 2lbs 14oz I believe too heavy by 6oz compared to an original. Which is a real shame considering how good this looks compared to an antique that they didn't get the weight right. An original weighs pretty much the same as a Windlass XIV though I am unsure where the POB would be on a original French cutlass mine is 5". I have included a group photo of some other swords that are of a somewhat similar blade length they go from heaviest (falchion 3lb 3oz) to lightest (1860 2lb) The Dadao sword weighs the same with the same POB as the French cutlass however the French cutlass feels better in one handed use, just seems better balanced to me. (Though the windlass falchion weighs 3lb+ & feels better in one hand than the Dadao & might even beat the French cutlass out) I don't think this cutlass is too heavy in the sense that other historical cutlass weighed in around this weight so it is still usable & realistic so to speak. However the 1860 feels much nicer to handle simply from being lighter, though if my life depended on cutting a mat I may choose the French cutlass as it definitely feels like it has some extra ooomph. I feel the windlass xiv being the weight this cutlass should have been is a good milestone to test it against & I think the XIV does beat it in handling even though the French cutlass may actually be better balanced overall it is just a little to heavy for my tastes. I actually think the xiv would make a mean cutlass substitute on a cramped deck. Hopefully this helps people who have never handled the French cutlass get an idea of what to expect by comparing it to the xiv which is quite popular. I do feel it handles better than the CS 1917 cutlass even though it is a fair bit heavier however that is from memory although I have one it is in storage. So would I recommend this cutlass to someone. Well yes & no. Faith full repro? I cannot think of a better one of any cutlass design TBH. Though the 1860 would be my second suggestion. Good handling? I would recommend the 1860 US naval cutlass the thing is a joy to use. Realistic handling? Well actually looking at other cutlass weights of this period this PROBABLY handles as many cutlasses did so in that sense I would recommend it.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 29, 2018 17:09:29 GMT
Thank you. I found that informative and really like the comparisons you made to other swords.
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Post by cearball on Dec 30, 2018 21:54:40 GMT
Thank you. I found that informative and really like the comparisons you made to other swords. Thanks! Hopefully it helps some people. Quick update. If I view down the blade/ handle junction it looks like I can spot a bit of wood inside the handle. However upon looking at where the knucklebow meets the lower part of the handle near the buttcap there is a gap in the handle that seems to show bear tang as in the metal handle is hollow & the tang just passes through to the peen block on the end.. Unfortunately mine has developed ever so slight movement inside the handle/feels like the tang is moving. I have experienced this on a few other windlass swords unfortunately. I will probably attempt to pour epoxy down the hole to fill it out but just letting people know if they are thinking of purchasing.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 31, 2018 15:29:37 GMT
Thank you. I found that informative and really like the comparisons you made to other swords. However upon looking at where the knucklebow meets the lower part of the handle near the buttcap there is a gap in the handle that seems to show bear tang as in the metal handle is hollow & the tang just passes through to the peen block on the end.. Unfortunately mine has developed ever so slight movement inside the handle/feels like the tang is moving. I have experienced this on a few other windlass swords unfortunately. I will probably attempt to pour epoxy down the hole to fill it out but just letting people know if they are thinking of purchasing. When you say “slight movement inside the handle/feels like the tang is moving.” are saying that you feel a slight movement of a wooden handle in relation to the tang as if the tang channel through the wood handle has opened somewhat giving the some movement of the handle with regard to the tang? If so I’ve experienced that with Windlasses and believe that is the problem occurring with an Universal but as that one is peened I can’t get inside to be sure. This is one of the reasons that I prefer a threaded tang as that is easy to repair.
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Post by cearball on Dec 31, 2018 22:08:22 GMT
The handle is metal so that I think is not moving.
I am unsure whether it is cast as one with the guard or not. I think I feel the tang move inside the handle. Like it is flexing.
I have another windlass where this seems to happen & another that seems to have what you describe in that the wooden handle moves.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2019 1:39:15 GMT
The handle is metal so that I think is not moving. I am unsure whether it is cast as one with the guard or not. I think I feel the tang move inside the handle. Like it is flexing. I have another windlass where this seems to happen & another that seems to have what you describe in that the wooden handle moves. Which Windlass cutlass with a metal handle are we reading about? A picture or reference?
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Post by cearball on Jan 1, 2019 2:23:38 GMT
The handle is metal so that I think is not moving. I am unsure whether it is cast as one with the guard or not. I think I feel the tang move inside the handle. Like it is flexing. I have another windlass where this seems to happen & another that seems to have what you describe in that the wooden handle moves. Which Windlass cutlass with a metal handle are we reading about? A picture or reference? Sorry I mean the IMA one I have gotten the idea in my head it is produced by windlass. Some people assumed it in previous posts & I felt they may be right but I have no evidence & shouldn't jump to conclusions.
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Post by cearball on Feb 16, 2019 13:17:08 GMT
After pouring about 70 ml of loctite 290 down into the handle it seems to have cured the problem.
No movement anymore.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 16, 2019 15:49:34 GMT
After pouring about 70 ml of loctite 290 down into the handle it seems to have cured the problem. No movement anymore. I have a Weapon Edge Klewang Cutlass that I very much like and after a few months it developed an ever so slight movement in the grip. I could not see a movement nor was there a click. Nevertheless I could feel it. I am sure the grip core is wood over which is wrapped leather with a metal back strap. I thought long and hard of a remedy. And although I am sure the core is wood I poured Loctite 242 down a small opening I found between the guard and blade. The opening, a semi circle about the size of a pin head or less, was so small I never could have used epoxy. It worked like a champ.
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