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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 4:19:33 GMT
I got it from AoV and it arrived today safe and sound.
I got the sharpening service and they did a good job at shaving the steel away, but the edge wasnt really sharp. It couldnt cut paper, it barely cut a waterbottle, but it did cut through a milk jug with ease. The sharpening service wasnt as good as I expected, but I still think they did an okay job. It thrusts through things a lot easier than my katanas.
The scabbard kinda sucked. The paint from the leather would bleed on your hand, The metal fittings rusted a little bit but I cleaned that. Do I have to oil the metal fittings also? The sword moves around inside the scabbard and the scabbard can slip down the blade easily unlike a katana's with it's habbaki to keep the scabbard from falling off.
The blade had a lot of marks on it. It made a nice dinggg when you tapped it unlike my katanas. I will do a full review with a lot of cutting after I sharpen the sword somemore and get more targets to cut. It will be a few weeks.
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Post by rammstein on Jan 22, 2008 4:25:40 GMT
Medieval swords don't need to be sharp enough to cut paper.
And DSA makes swords pretty thick, so it's not suprising it couldn't cut a water bottle.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 4:31:43 GMT
Medieval swords don't need to be sharp enough to cut paper. And DSA makes swords pretty thick, so it's not suprising it couldn't cut a water bottle. my katanas are thicker, and they can cut through water bottles with zero resistance. They arent much sharper either. Do you think that I have to oil the metal fittings on the scabbard? it was rusted when it came.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 4:35:48 GMT
I may have to re-evaluate buying the Ranger from DSA after the initial impressions from this post. Thanks for info and looking forward to the rest of your comments.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 4:39:52 GMT
I may have to re-evaluate buying the Ranger from DSA after the initial impressions from this post. Thanks for info and looking forward to the rest of your comments. Yeah, DSA should start sharpening their swords on their own so it can be traditionally sharpened instead of sharpened with a file and an accusharp. They should make the scabbards better too
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jan 22, 2008 4:43:56 GMT
G Unit. Congratulations on your acquisition. I do have a couple of comments based on your first post. "it barely cut a waterbottle": "it" barely cut the bottle, or "you" barely cut the bottle. I won't judge coz I don't know about your experience level at cutting, but no they don't cut as easily as katanas, so there is a bit of technique involved. I'm sure you'll be cutting the waterbottles in no time once you adapt your technique. We've all batted our fair share with the best of swords.
G2 scabbards are known to bleed heaps when wet too. Just rub it all off with a moist rag til no more comes of. Yep, oil the fittings, they are obviously not stainless - nothing wrong with that! I hate stainless coz you can't blue it etc.
For the lose scabbard it is easily fixed with some epoxy around the throat, and filing back to the desired level of tension.
I see DSwords as a bit of a DIY project, and your sharpening service saved you 3 hours work, guaranteed. If you want to get rid of the secondary bevel and make a more katana like bevel, pm me, I'll tell you how, or see how I did it to my PC Practical H&H.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 4:44:17 GMT
SOmebody (Paul?) recently mentioned that DSA admits that their current scabbards are sort of cheap-ish freebies, thrown in with the sword, but that they plan on improving them in the future.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 4:52:45 GMT
G Unit. Congratulations on your acquisition. I do have a couple of comments based on your first post. "it barely cut a waterbottle": "it" barely cut the bottle, or "you" barely cut the bottle. I won't judge coz I don't know about your experience level at cutting, but no they don't cut as easily as katanas, so there is a bit of technique involved. I'm sure you'll be cutting the waterbottles in no time once you adapt your technique. We've all batted our fair share with the best of swords. G2 scabbards are known to bleed heaps when wet too. Just rub it all off with a moist rag til no more comes of. Yep, oil the fittings, they are obviously not stainless - nothing wrong with that! I hate stainless coz you can't blue it etc. For the lose scabbard it is easily fixed with some epoxy around the throat, and filing back to the desired level of tension. I see DSwords as a bit of a DIY project, and your sharpening service saved you 3 hours work, guaranteed. If you want to get rid of the secondary bevel and make a more katana like bevel, pm me, I'll tell you how, or see how I did it to my PC Practical H&H. Yea i used a chopping technique, maybe that's why. I only know how to use the japanese sword techniques.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jan 22, 2008 5:35:43 GMT
Yeah, you'll need to slice very fast, and make sure you use a slight downward motion. Also a bit of a flick with the pinky helps with speed. Keeping the blade edge square on is paramount. Below are some photos I just took of my PC Practical H&H. You can see theres just one smooth transition from the peak of the diamond to the edge. It has some scuffing from the diamond block which may look like a small secondary bevel, but it's not. See here for my tutorials as to how I did it: /index.cgi?board=swordreviews&action=display&thread=1187959333 /index.cgi?board=swordreviews&action=display&thread=1183463660&page=1 This photo shows the sort of secondary bevel I initially gave it after 4 hours on the file.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 6:02:05 GMT
mucho gracias, +1
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 7:54:57 GMT
I hope you're not implying that the japanese sword technique is a chop! Also... from what I've read about traditional katana, they were not particularly sharp either, with their convex edge... I'm not sure about the ability to cut paper, though.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 8:30:02 GMT
my dsa viking sword cut a water bottle.
/index.cgi?board=euromedieval&action=display&thread=1195262741
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 19:06:44 GMT
my dsa viking sword cut a water bottle. /index.cgi?board=euromedieval&action=display&thread=1195262741 where or how did you get it sharpened, did you get it sharpened from AoV?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2008 19:09:52 GMT
I hope you're not implying that the japanese sword technique is a chop! Also... from what I've read about traditional katana, they were not particularly sharp either, with their convex edge... I'm not sure about the ability to cut paper, though. no lol, I know that the japanese technique is a slice, but I was seeing how this sword could cut without much technique applied
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2008 5:06:52 GMT
my dsa viking sword cut a water bottle. /index.cgi?board=euromedieval&action=display&thread=1195262741 where or how did you get it sharpened, did you get it sharpened from AoV? no i sharpen it with a accusharp.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2008 6:43:15 GMT
Ive used the Smith's sharpener about 15-20 minutes per edge and it's shaving paper a little bit better. I cut about 3 bottles and batted one of them away, but the other cuts werent super clean like my katanas can do, but it was adequate. How long do you think its takes to sharpen a half sharpened sword to become sharp enough to cut water bottles with ease amd shave paper? It seems like its taking forever for me
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Post by randomnobody on Jan 23, 2008 9:56:54 GMT
A DSA will probably never shave paper, they're just too thick. To file them down enough such that they could actually shear paper would take days of effort, I imagine, and a couple dozen good files. It's been said already, but European swords, for the most part, really aren't intended to be that sharp to begin with. I have four katanas and two Euros, Hanwei's William Marshal and Godfred; the latter two are utterly blunt by comparison to my katanas, but they all go through cardboard just the same. I remember when I was at ShooterMike's place (a trip I may have to make again when I can afford it) the only thing I could think of his many ATs, Albions, etc. was "Wow, these things are dull." I learned fast how wrong I was. That man goes through bottles like they aren't even there, as we've all seen. Myself, I couldn't quite get it down, but I was starting to pick it up a bit once I got my hands (note the plural ) on a PROPER sword (I vastly prefer two-handers, singles just don't do it anymore) before we ran out of fodder. So just work on technique, check out Mike's videos, you'll be slicing bottles with dull swords in no time. Unless you're me in which case you're just horribly inept and should stick with katanas but leave them on the wall so you don't hurt yourself.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2008 13:58:18 GMT
Well said Randomnbody. The Katana and the European Medieval sword were designed for two totally different purposes.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2008 20:24:47 GMT
ok kool. I feel totaly different about the my knightly. I just need to figure out how to not bat away bottles as much
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Post by randomnobody on Jan 23, 2008 20:39:40 GMT
Check out Mike's videos in the Cutting Techniques thread. He's got a nice tutorial in there.
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