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Post by shishinn on Jan 24, 2013 8:13:50 GMT
I have a newbie question. Say you ordered a T10 blade and the manufacturer actually used 1095 steel. How can you tell? Or you ordered a 1095 blade, the manufacturer used 1060 steel?
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Post by lamebmx on Jan 24, 2013 11:41:27 GMT
1045 Carbon: 0.43-0.50 Manganese: 0.60-0.90 Phosphorus: 0.040 Sulfur: 0.050 1060 Carbon: 0.55-0.65 Manganese: 0.60-0.90 Phosphorus: 0.040 Sulfur: 0.050 1095 Carbon: 0.90-1.03 Manganese: 0.30-0.50 Phosphorus: 0.040 sulfur: 0.050 T10 Carbon: 1 Manganese: .36 Phosphorus: .031 Sulfur: .029 Silicon: .32 www.swordforum.com/forums/showth ... omposition & www.postdiluvian.org/~mason/mate ... teels.html A brief writeup about what the other stuff does: www.chasealloys.co.uk/steel/allo ... -in-steel/ For the last question, expensive equipment. If you handled objects of both materials enough you could probably tell between 1095/T10 and 1060.
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Post by Rafael on Jan 24, 2013 13:55:46 GMT
Between 1060 and the others, 1060 is significantly softer so that if you have experienced personally the effort required to sharpen each you'll notice a big difference between the 1060 and the T10. another practical difference that is also a direct result of the differing hardness is that the 1060 will tend to take little nicks rolls or dents in the edge much more easily compared to the T10 that I have owned. Based on the carbon content I would expect 1095 to be very similar in hardness and effort required to sharpen versus T10.
Other than using expensive hardness measuring equipment, I have heard the 1095 produces a much more prominent Hamon compared to T10. Although I don't own a 1095 blade(as far as I know LOL), if you have examined examples of both that are differentially hardened, you can probably tell the difference between other examples.
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Jan 25, 2013 18:49:56 GMT
Well I know this might matter somewhat to those that cut, cut, cut, but an occasional cutter and mainly as a collector this doesn't concern me much. And Keith's articles are always great, I bet many of us have learned greatly when reading those. As swords are expensive things, I try to take good care of mine. When I feel the cutting I'm performing might be too harsh for the sword, I switch to better performing sword or easier target. Therefore as I was cutting newspaper with that T10 blade, I felt negative feedback and the performance was mediocre. In order to not to damage the sword I switched to another sword and advanced targets twice as thick. Now granted that the better performing sword has lower retail price than the T10. Now this is only personal thing and I can't draw conclusions from one single T10 sword, but as the manufacturer is liked by many, I share the opposite opinion based on my personal experience. Many times we are relying on just personal information or something we've read/heard. As I haven't cut that much, and I have cautious advance strategy going from easy to more challenging, I haven't damaged any katana by cutting (granted I haven't cut with that many of them as I usually only have couple cheap beaters I cut with, as at my level I don't need better than that). Now I can't comment anything about the breaking point at personal level. Although I must say that if I would tried those 2x as thick targets with the T10, I believe I would have damaged it. I didn't want to damage the sword as I was planning to sell it, and I don't have enough money to be spending it on damaging swords. When I compare swords to each other I usually compare the models, I personally can't say anything about the steels performance. One should have the exact same model by the same forge in 2 different steels, and probably more than one example of each to make a comparison focusing just on steel. Hah, I just found out I've actually cut with one good T10 blade. LL Bear, now that was a good cutter, but however in my opinion my 1090 LL outperforms this and is an amazing cutter. But as these are different models, the comparison of steel alone is useless. All I can say is I like LL blades very much. So like I've already said before steel type doesn't matter a thing to me, overall quality does. I don't say this is pointless subject to discuss, but in order to eliminate the manufacturer difference, we would need to compare swords made from different steels by manufacturer X. Like comparing Kaneie T10 to Kaneie 1095, or comparing Huanuo 1095 to Huanuo 1060. Using blades from the same forge does offer better comparison basis than comparing Anthony DiCristofano 1095 to Longquan forge T10. Danged all this talk is making me want to do some cutting...
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