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Post by Artelmis on Mar 21, 2012 0:16:36 GMT
So, way back in the day, I was a huge bow fanatic.
Now, in my slightly oder age (23) I look back and realize how much fun it was...
but now that I'm also buying my own stuff instead of using my grandfathers (RIP) old longbow, I'm stuck trying to figure out what i even want to use/buy.
I'd rather not spend a ton of money on this... sub 200.
I'm 5'11'', a lightweight, and right handed.
thoughts and pointers are most welcome here.
thanks!
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 21, 2012 0:32:19 GMT
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Post by Artelmis on Mar 21, 2012 1:24:18 GMT
I've always been a fan of the eastern shortbows (mongol iirc), but lacking a horse... and enemy mongol hordes or defenders of China... there's limited use from my narrow perspective. still, a composite bow would pack one heck of a punch.
really not a fan of the new fancy compound bows. sure, they're the "best" when it comes to technological advancement, but I really prefer the older and more natural feel of wood in my hands.... BOW WOOD. FROM A TREE.
my old bow was a longbow. a plain, semi-modern design it seemed... wood with a faux leather/tennis racket grip with some laquered cotton cord holding it down. it seemed like it was around 5-6 feet tall unstrung, but that might be cause i was a lot shorter back then too. was fairly easy to pull back even by my puny arm standards... range always seemed to be an issue.
I like having a "notch" and a more hand-fitted grip.
really what it boils down to is what are the advantages and disadvantages of longbows or the shorter recurves and how would it impact my use of the bow? also, what do the different number classes mean and what's a decent pull for an intermediately competent archer?
I'm looking for target practice mostly. I don't plan to do anything stupid regarding living creatures, but in the event that it becomes necessary... i'd rather the arrow didn't boink off the "victim"
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Post by Rifleman Lizard on Mar 21, 2012 2:06:40 GMT
I'm a passionate archer.  I shoot a Hoyt GMX recurve bow tuned in at just over 40lbs draw weight. When I want to go back to basics with no bells and whistles; I use an American flat bow. If you're after a bare bones rig I'd highly recommend them. As a Brit I can appreciate the English longbow but I greatly prefer the AFB for accurate target shooting. Using the natural arrow shelf on any flat bow is a great advantage when shooting bare bow. They can come in natural and attractive wood, with option of glass laminate etc. If you're starting up again and want to rediscover technique before improving strength ( always the wise man's choice) I recommend you start in the early 30s. |
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LeMal
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Post by LeMal on Mar 21, 2012 3:55:13 GMT
Absolutely. Modern recurves and flatbow (American longbow) are excellent choices--and while new pieces command a pretty penny, used ones in good shape can still be found for a bargain on eBay etc. I'm rather partial to Herters bows myself, having three, but most of all to a 40lb. Ben Pearson Cougar I've been shooting for nearly thirty-five years. I do have another "illicit love" though, and that's all-fiberglass bows. They can be found in flea markets, antique barns and the like for even less, but so long as they're w/o cracks or delaminations are just plain wonderful. I have more than a half dozen in varying poundages, and I highly recommend them. Good article about them here: www.tradbow.com/public/272.cfm |
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Mar 21, 2012 5:23:26 GMT
It boils down to arrow velocity mostly. A recurve will throw an arrow faster than a longbow (generally speaking, obviously there are exceptions). The real advantage IMO of recurves, horsebows and other short bows is that, well, they're short. Much easier to carry in the woods or in a blind/tree stand, much less likely to get hung up on branches overhead or caught in the underbrush. I am a passionate lover of the English Longbow, it is by far my favorite bow style and I have been shooting one for years. But I cannot deny that it has some serious design flaws depending on intended usage. They were designed as a weapon of war on the open battlefield, and are perfectly suited for it. But for a woodland area they may become too cumbersome. And as I said before, generally slower arrow velocity (though they still pack a hell of a punch). If you're just target shooting, get the bow that looks/feels right to you. Really you won't be disadvantaged either way, proficiency counts for more anyhow. My next bow (I REALLY want another ELB, but I need something shorter) will very, very likely be this: rudderbowsarchery.com/shopping/ ... 757s0hicm4 That's the shortest bow I have found that can be drawn to my 31" draw length. I'm not thrilled with horsebows, but the design of this one is fairly subtle. Take a poke around their site, they have quite a few great bows under your budget. I've purchased from them (as have many) and Jim does wonderful work. KP Archery is another source for entry level budget bows. I have not purchased from them but Greg has, and he thinks very highly of the bows especially given their low cost. He would be able to give you a more accurate idea of what to expect. As for draw weight, how light framed are you? I have a pretty slim frame and draw my #45 bow fine, but if you haven't shot in a good while, #35-45 is a good range. #35 really shouldn't be any trouble, I was pulling that weight back when I was 13 or so and only ~110 pounds. |
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Post by Ceebs on Mar 21, 2012 6:26:33 GMT
You can't go wrong with Rudderbows as far as I'm concerned. With regards to velocity, an English longbow (with the proper draw weight) can shoot a heavier arrow to distance upwards of 220 yards. Those war arrows were around 32 inches long and weighed a quarter of a pound. Definitely not as fast as a recurve but as Aaron said, it packs one hell of a punch. Strangely enough, English foresters did use Longbows when hunting. The Book The Crooked Stick by Hugh Soar sheds some interesting light on the subject and gives some detailed period accounts of how hunting took place. Heh, but I degress Like swords, choosing bow types essentially come down to a matter of personal preference. I love all traditional bows (modern stuff isn't my thing) be they recurve or longbow. My personal preference is for longbows though. I see no major disadvantages in either. For starting draw weights I recommend anywhere from 30-45 pounds. Loving the amount of Archery threads we've had lately. Oh, and a handy tip, work on technique first! accuracy will follow. |
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Mar 21, 2012 6:38:37 GMT
Oh yes, I've purchased from Rudderbows before (my current ELB) and I've been more than satisfied with it. I've no reason to shop elsewhere for bows, but I understand they may be pricier for some people (though they do have many inexpensive options right around $109).
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Post by Artelmis on Mar 21, 2012 23:11:32 GMT
Well. I'm leaning more towards a recurve.
a good bow, but something that I can use as a refresher while I train to use a more powerful draw.... meaning not too expensive but certainly something that can be used for targets and possibly small/medium game.
Leaning towards wood. not sure how bamboo fares but i'd rather avoid it if possible.
fiberglass while reliable, just isn't really my style.
if you guys could help me narrow it down to 2-4 individual bows, that'd be great.
30-35 pound draw
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Mar 21, 2012 23:24:10 GMT
Bamboo is actually really great for bows, helps add a lot of speed.
If you're leaning toward a recurve, you're going to want to up your budget (not by a whole lot, found a couple Martin's for around 240) because you're going to be pretty much limited to modern bows. Custom recurves are going to be quite a bit out of your budget.
But if you want a transition bow that just needs to last you until you're refreshed with archery, and is planning on being outgrown quickly so you can get a more powerful draw, why drop the money on a quality recurve? The entry-level bows from KP Archery are more than adequate for what you intend to do. Buy the bow, train, get a better bow that's more what you want.
I just don't see the point in spending that kind of money on something you're basically planning on being disposable. But if you need a recurve, start looking at Bear, Martin, PSE, etc.
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Post by Bulvoy on Mar 22, 2012 0:03:36 GMT
Aaron is right, i had a bow from KP archery arrive this past monday $55. 45#. It's really great quality for the price, i'm surprised they don't charge more shoots well, i am pleased with it alot although i got it for my brother, i went with a Rudder bow entry english long bow cost me more ( 165 shipped), and i have to say we shot both & the one from KP archery is the same if not better I kinda wish i woulda went with KP firs theres the link stores.ebay.com/KP-Archery?_trksid=p4340.l2563 |
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Post by johnapsega on Mar 22, 2012 2:31:17 GMT
I just bought a KP Bow, its a Longbow with a 45 pound draw at 28 inches. I think that its one of the best purchases I have made in a long time. Love the bow and the service was great. I could not say anything bad about them.
Hope this helps.
John Apsega
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Post by Hiroshi on Mar 22, 2012 2:39:20 GMT
I got one of those about 8 months ago. Shoot pretty good for a beginner bow. Really doesnt compare to higher end bows. I've gotten about all I can out of my bow and will be upgrading this summer probably. If I can afford it.
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Post by ineffableone on Mar 22, 2012 15:41:06 GMT
For a good quality recurve I can not sing the praises of the Samick Sage enough. I got mine at 3Rivers archery for $139 www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=2490X They also sell a kit with Samick Sage bow, quiver, glove, armguard, bow stringer, and bow case $214.99 - $229.99 www.3riversarchery.com/VariableKit.asp?i=2495&show=info Part of why I recommend the Samick Sage is it is a no tools take down bow, which means you can replace the bow limbs. The replacement limbs cost $73 at 3Rivers www.3riversarchery.com/replacement+sage+recurve+limbs_i2492X_baseitem.html and come in 35#, 40#, 45#, 50#, 55#, and 60#. This gives you a lot of options for upgrading your bow if you desire. Also the Sage shoots like bows worth twice and more the cost of the Sage. It is a bow that has gotten favorable reviews by a lot of avid archers and bow hunters. These youtube reviews are what sold me on this bow, though I had already been looking at it, seeing these videos got me to make the purchase and I have been completely happy with it. Samick Sage Recurve ReviewSamick Sage Revisit |
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Post by Artelmis on Mar 22, 2012 22:20:05 GMT
what kind of draw and arrows do you guys think would be good for turkeys? and thoughts on a good gauntlet/arm guard for my left hand/arm? I was thinking of this one from ravenswood leather. I'm really not a fan of the strap-on camo ones i seem to see all the time in the sporting goods stores. ravenswoodleather.com/index.php?p=product&id=410probably gonna go to dicks and get the shooting glove for my right and arrows once my bow shows up. still deciding which i'm getting, but that's probably something i should pick up in person since my last bow had crappy wood arrows and i plan to get at least moderate performance arrows this time around. tips? -Arty |
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Post by ineffableone on Mar 22, 2012 22:52:16 GMT
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Post by Tendrax on Mar 23, 2012 0:42:09 GMT
This. If the brace height on your bow is a little short the string might tap your wrist at the end of it's movement, but if it's brushing the inside of your forearm your form is incorrect and needs fixing. The SCA Archery marshal that taught me to shoot was big on newbies not having arm guards because without it you'll hit your arm once and immediately correct your form. Mostly because it hurts like hell. Also he's seen arm guards on people with bad form actually make it worse because the string hit behind the arm guard and pinched a big meaty piece of flesh between the string and end of the guard.
Anyway, all that said, I recommend against using one while you're learning proper form.
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Post by Artelmis on Mar 23, 2012 1:03:26 GMT
debating the 3rivers. i noticed in the "special package" that they had some extra equipment, namely the wrist guard and the finger guard... it's a good deal, but i'm not convinced that i'll like it. I really don't like the one-sided arm protectors. this is the type i have and i can't stand it at all. www.oeoutfitters.com/ProdImages/ ... 0guard.jpg. i'm looking more for a glove or slip on "cuff" type. as to form, I used to have good form and rarely need it. but there were always the occasional boo-boos and then i'd be hopping up and down grabbing my inner forearm for a few minutes and that is NOT helpful to my mood/sanity and reminds me that i'm really not a fan of avoidable pain... plus the glove does have some aesthetic flair to it... quivver and arrows. i'm not really feeling wood. unless there's some particular reason i should stay away from the carbon or aluminum shafts? what's a good turkey tip? will have to get some "beater" arrows for practice. it's been a while since i've shot a bow. draw. I was debating the 35 or the 40. 35 is probably more along the lines of what i'd be best with but i'd rather not have half-crippled turkeys running around the forest dying of infection. |
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Mar 23, 2012 3:34:46 GMT
35# is enough to take deer, it would be more than enough for a turkey. Only problem is you're going to need to get within a manageable distance to make the best use of the lighter weight. There is no real definitive hunting weight for game. Ted Nugent has killed just about everything under the sun with his 50# bow. Shot placement is what's key.
The only solid suggestion anyone can offer is to check your state and/or local archery laws. Most states have a minimum weight of #35-45. Maryland is I THINK #30. Always double-check.
The arm guard is less necessary with recurves, as sting follow isn't nearly as large a problem as with longbows (the string follow of a longbow is the primary reason that even skilled archers can receive bruised forearms, it is not necessarily an indicator of bad form). A finger glove would be a comfort if you're planning on shooting 3-4 dozen times. I find that with my #45 ELB I don't need one even with my "city" hands, up until I start really shooting a lot, then it gets sore and painful. Ultimately it's your choice, I find them a distraction to my draw.
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Post by Artelmis on Mar 23, 2012 4:01:59 GMT
yeah. maryland is 30.
still need to finalize my bow, probably a 35.
all it boils down to now is arrows. probably gonna head to Dicks and check out their selection. better to feel the arrows in hand first to get a good idea of what I want to be shooting. since i don't reallly know anything about what kind I should be getting.
my old arrows were crap tacular wooden shaft with plastic flights... thinking of getting the newer carbon fiber or alloy ones... not sure what the differences are and what I should be looking at on a #35 recurve.
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I shoot a Hoyt GMX recurve bow tuned in at just over 40lbs draw weight. When I want to go back to basics with no bells and whistles; I use an American flat bow.
