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Post by Vincent Dolan on Mar 30, 2011 14:57:11 GMT
That's a possibility, but I dunno. I think more like a ko-katana with something like a 1:2 hilt-to-blade ratio would look better. Still, to have a blade of any real substance with that, you'd have to have something like a 20" hilt. Actually, now that I think about it, those are actually pretty decent proportions for something like this; 20" hilt, 40" blade. You'd need a decent sized pommel and some aggressive fullering if you wanted it to be a relatively wide blade (say, 3-4"). The main question would be, should it be straight like the original, or with a slight curve? I'd lean more towards the latter since straight, it'd look rather blocky. Then there'd probably be, should it have a proper guard or something similar to the original? Again, I'd lean more towards the latter since there's just something about a blade as wide as its guard that strikes my fancy, but that wouldn't work for everyone.
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Post by MOK on Mar 30, 2011 15:19:21 GMT
I think I'd go for a T-shaped cross-section, like a gigantic Khyber knife. And yeah, original style guard, absolutely. Aggressive distal taper and some profile taper, combined with a massive pommel, should keep the balance manageable... Ah damnit, I'm thinking about this enough that I might as well draw up the damn thing.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Mar 30, 2011 15:22:54 GMT
I hadn't thought about a T-shaped cross-section. That should make it interesting and I always forget about the distal tapering, but that is a definite must, though I think keeping the pommel attractive yet still be big enough to even out the balance will be difficult. Ought to be interesting to see what you come up with.
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Post by MOK on Mar 30, 2011 20:24:39 GMT
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Mar 30, 2011 20:48:06 GMT
Yep. I saw it over there and just like I said there, I think I want one. It would definitely be interesting to have one with those proportions in real life. I'm also interested in the hilt. It looks like you've got a leather over wood grip with a leather cross wrap and metal studs (like on the Albion Chevalier); am I right?
Anyways, my only real issue would be the potentially weak tip. But, as with most of what you posted, that could just be the proportions messing with my head. I'm also assuming that the tang is nearly the full width of the grip for extra strength, no? Could hardly have it otherwise, with such a massive blade.
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Post by MOK on Mar 30, 2011 20:58:16 GMT
Yep, correct on all points. I think the spine should be enough to keep the tip from getting too fragile or floppy - it's still 0.3 inches, thicker than most swords get, where the point bevel starts. But really I don't have the knowledge or experience to say for sure unless someone actually makes one...
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Mar 30, 2011 21:12:19 GMT
Hmm. Then it should probably be fine, for the most part. After all, a thick, reinforced point, as far as I'm aware, is mostly used for penetrating armor and since we don't have to do that, it's not that big a deal. Still, it'd be easy to ask someone like Brenno or another smith what they think on the point issue. Now, finding someone who could, and would be willing to, make this is another story entirely...
On a related note, a sheath for this thing would be just as difficult to make, considering the proportions necessary.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Apr 1, 2011 2:56:25 GMT
Off topic, MOK, but I just noticed something while looking at one of my previous posts on this subject (that is, the buster sword). I'm not sure if you knew this, but if the buster sword in the original game were to be pulled out as is, it would be 62" long overall, 44" long x 6" wide blade, and a 16" hilt; the remaining 2" would be the guard. In other words, yours is almost exactly the same size as the original. How's that for weird?
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Post by MOK on Apr 1, 2011 12:06:23 GMT
Not a coincidence! I estimated the size from that reference pic of Cloud with the sword and tried to stick as close as possible. Seems I actually overdid it a little bit.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Apr 1, 2011 12:16:54 GMT
Haha. Glad I'm not the only one who did that. I figured if Cloud's given height is known, finding out the Buster Sword's length is easy enough. Not by much, really. Your blade is actually shorter (good), your grip is actually longer (good), but your overall length is just a bit longer on account of the relatively huge pommel (also good). Now that I think about it, it's actually a massively over-built nodachi in a sense, similar to Sephiroth's Masamune, although I dare anyone to try and wield either one the way they do in Advent Children.
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Post by MOK on Apr 6, 2011 13:30:45 GMT
Here's a small but hefty ring-pommeled leaf blade, another fantasy design with some vaguely African and South-East Asian influences. 25 inches overall, with an 18-inch blade and a 4-inch grip. The whole sword consists of one piece of steel, with gold-plated pommel, tang and shoulders. The grip is made simply by wrapping the tang with split and dyed rattan. The blade is lenticular in cross-section and gets quite thick near the pommel; the combination of distal taper and the deep fuller should keep the center of balance at around 3 inches from the shoulders, resulting in fairly significant blade presence, but not enough to slow you down. The scabbard is made of dark rosewood, and features a gold-plated steel chape and throat and a series of rattan bands around the bare wood in the middle. Of course, you could also skip the gold-plating for a more business-like weapon. Or replace it with brass - give it a little time to put on a nice dark patina and it could actually turn out very nice.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Apr 6, 2011 18:43:05 GMT
Oh, that is a very nice one, MOK, and very much my speed; I love short swords. It reminds me of a Xiphos/Lakonia with some Asian influence. Out of all your designs, this and the Tac-tanto are the ones I'm really wanting to have made.
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Post by MOK on Apr 6, 2011 21:43:48 GMT
Yeah, I love shorties myself, especially compact but heavy cutters like this. On the other hand, I also really like large swords... and medium ones, too... oh, who am I kidding - just like with everything else, my taste in swords is expansive enough that I don't really have any. It's a Zen kinda thing, honest.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Apr 6, 2011 23:36:09 GMT
Oh, I feel you there. I prefer one-handers simply because I like the option of using my free hand, but I also like two-handers, although I do draw a certain line on the length; but only insofar because I like quick blades, not overpowering monsters. As to this little ring sword, I'd say keep the gold on it no matter what. It really strikes a nice counterpoint to the dark red rattan/oxblood leather (whichever it eventually gets made with).
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Post by MOK on Apr 7, 2011 12:19:33 GMT
From the fantasy sword redesign thread, Buliwyf's sword from The 13th Warrior: And because I couldn't sleep and felt like doing something else with that hilt, here's something just for you, Vincent - a Migration Era bowie: 20-inch blade, 4-inch grip. Again, gilt steel hilt with iron plates in the guards and iron bands holding the pommel. Grip wrapped in oxblood leather. The blade has a thick-spined cross-section with a broad and shallow fuller like on most historical langseax, and a very ahistorical clipped point.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Apr 7, 2011 18:07:05 GMT
:lol: You know me well, MOK. That's a blade any viking would be proud to carry. And I love the pattern welding in the fuller.
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Post by MOK on Apr 11, 2011 22:04:11 GMT
Here's something a little bit special. It's a hunting sword in German style. And it's for hunting a very specific beast... A bold, broad blade of Oakeshott type XVIIIc, 40 inches long and 3 inches wide at the guard, with hollow-ground bevels and a strong central ridge that starts out 0.4 inches thick at the guard - very stiff, but lighter than in looks. Overall length of the sword is 51 inches; the quillons are 10 inches long from tip to tip. The hilt is of a messer-like sandwhiched construction, with blackened steel guard and pommel. The whole sword is balanced mainly by the thick slab tang. The grip is 8 inches long, with grip slabs of the dark heartwood of ash, seven tubular silver-plated rivets, and silver bolsters. The pommel is also made of two slabs in the form of a wolf's head. The flared ends of the quillons bear the vertical wolfsangel in silver inlay on each face, and a pentagram is likewise inlaid in silver on the small, round shell guard. If you've seen the right movies, you already know what this thing is for. And if you haven't, just remember: Even a man who is pure of heart And says his prayers by night May become a wolf when the wolfbane blooms And the autumn moon is bright.This sword is called Wehrwolf. It's sort of a pun in German: it's an alternate spelling of werwolf - and if I still have to explain what that means, you're seriously not even trying - but wehr can also mean "weapon" or "defense" (as in wehrmacht); I suppose Warwolf would be a good English approximation. PS. Here's a refined version with a companion knife.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Apr 11, 2011 22:44:01 GMT
Damn, that's one helluva beast, MOK. Not quite my style, but it's still a good looking sword.
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Post by MOK on Apr 11, 2011 23:17:05 GMT
It started out as a more reasonably sized hand-and-a-half, but the proportions just didn't look right until I enlarged the blade to its current size... Oh well, no loss. When your opponent wears his fur inside his skin, you'll want all the reach and power you can get.
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Post by MOK on Apr 12, 2011 0:21:59 GMT
Today I also came up with this rather more modern knife. It has a leaf-shaped blade 7 inches long and 1.8 wide, and a 5-inch handle with curves to spare. The grips are made of Zytel and fixed with two hex screws. There's also a fairly large lanyard hole. It should balance right where the edge begins; I proportioned the grip so that a person with hands the size of mine could grab it either by the narrow neck for precise pointwork, or further up by the bulging belly for more powerful chops and slashes. I figure it should also be comfortable in a saber grip, with the thumb resting in the hollow of the neck, braced against the "guard".
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