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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 19, 2007 7:45:57 GMT
Hey all. This is what I'm thinking of creating for my next sword. The pommel would be a wheel pommel with cut outs to aid grip by the back hand. Any feedback regarding durability of this style, or cutting ability, or improvement ideas would be appreciated. Cheers!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2007 8:14:57 GMT
I would buy that, let me put it that way, maybe try a sandwiched tang and wrap it like you did the last one? Looks good, with a strong tang and the right edge geometry it should be great, oh and damn you for making me want to make my own swords I mean that in the nicest possible way.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 19, 2007 8:23:02 GMT
It will have a mega tang, bigger than any of the maufacturers use. And it will be razor sharp with minimal secondary bevel.
It won't have any distal taper till near the end, as I want it durable.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2007 9:12:27 GMT
This sword look great ! What's the dimensions you want for it ?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2007 9:18:57 GMT
Brenno: it wont be bigger than a john luderno tang will it? You'd never lift the thing
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Post by Dan Davis on Oct 19, 2007 12:45:36 GMT
The rather extreme tip swell of the leaf blade coupled with a lack of distal taper means you will end up with a stress point at the narrow portion of the blade where it will likely fail. Reduce the size of your leaf swell, widen the leaf narrow point, or (best option) install distal taper on the thing.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2007 13:04:35 GMT
Brenno: it wont be bigger than a john luderno tang will it? You'd never lift the thing Do you mean John Lundemo?
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 19, 2007 13:29:38 GMT
The rather extreme tip swell of the leaf blade coupled with a lack of distal taper means you will end up with a stress point at the narrow portion of the blade where it will likely fail. Reduce the size of your leaf swell, widen the leaf narrow point, or (best option) install distal taper on the thing. Hey Dan. I appreciate the feedback. I'd rather learn from others' experience. I have scribed the stock and had planned on a waist that comes in 5mm from each side, to give 40mm which swells out to 50mm at the widest point. Also the ricasso was to swell abruptly from 40mm to 50mm. Do you think thats too pronounced? The point tapers in straight in over 305mm. This sword look great ! What's the dimensions you want for it ? The overall length of the project is 1000mm. Im looking at 50mm pommel (+10mm to peen and waste), 140mm grip, and 10mm cross seat; which leaves 790mm for the blade (31.1"). The blank is 50mm wide. The tang will taper from 24mm down to 15mm through the pommel. The steel is just under 6mm thick. Ive tried to illustrate it below. Alternatively, I could try to imitate the blade proportions of this little baby. Much more subtle waiste. Less thinning toward the tip. How gorgeous is this:
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Oct 19, 2007 14:37:33 GMT
Oh my god...
That is exactly the same style as what I was considering...
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2007 14:46:27 GMT
Now that is a great looking sword. Perhaps a compromise between the two. A slightly smaller leaf, with some distal taper.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 19, 2007 15:17:18 GMT
I think I'll try to copy the Glamdring Blade but keep the hilt as per my sketch.
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Post by ShooterMike on Oct 19, 2007 15:27:39 GMT
Brenno,
That sounds like a great design. Just one thought though...
Consider at least 50-60% distal taper from just past the ricasso to about 2-3 inches behind the point. It will make a huge difference in the handling dynamics. And that should actually improve the durability by removing a significant amount of stress on the waisted portion of the blade. Particularly if you increase the angle of the distal taper just after it starts to transition into the leaf.
Have you done a drawing of the distal view that's to the same scale as the profile view you've shown?
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 19, 2007 15:28:19 GMT
This is a blade I found, by Gus Trim. It seems to use similar proportions to those I had in mind originally. I found a heap by Jody Sampson with very pronounced waists, but I suppose his are more for art than durability.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 19, 2007 15:36:24 GMT
Hey Mike I appreciate the feedback. I'd consider it but am concerned that it might make it more likely to take a set on a missed cut. If it's thicker I hope it would be more resiliant. I expect it to come in at a bit over 3lb.
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Post by Dan Davis on Oct 23, 2007 12:14:24 GMT
Brenno, I tend to agree with Mike here; distal taper is needed, and I would say a minimum of 40%. However, you don't have to apply distal taper to the center ridgeline and to the mass of the blade equally. a 30% taper on the spine will provide the extra stiffness you want. The downside to this design is that the spine gets thicker relative to the blade and starts to stand off of the surface, making the blade tend to stop when it reaches the spine.
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Post by Dan Davis on Oct 23, 2007 13:36:43 GMT
Brenno, Make the sword just as you planned, without distal taper. Swing it around once or twice before you heat treat and then go back to put in whatever distal taper you feel necessary. The sword will work without it, but I'm willing to bet you won't like the feel without at least some taper to it.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2007 14:01:48 GMT
If you are making a super thick beater then it will come in over 4 pounds. But if you are making a cutter, than it would be easy to get a sword of this length at or under 3. just grind it thinner, and trust your steel and heat treat, you'll find out just how good both are if you get a bender.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 23, 2007 16:51:12 GMT
Cool guys. I'l have a crack at it. From what point in the blade should the taper begin do you think?
Im a bit slow starting the project but Id like to get some of these facts straight.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Oct 25, 2007 12:42:11 GMT
You'll be a hell of a lot quicker than me, I assure you. Those buggers I emailed about the steel won't even mail me back.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 25, 2007 12:51:58 GMT
Matt PM sent
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