admin
Site Admin
Posts: 2,088
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Post by admin on Oct 3, 2007 8:55:19 GMT
Hey Ric - sorry I was so late commenting here - I am always late coming to the party... (Fashionably late? Hehe, more like clueless). Anyway, I have to say that as I noted in my original review of the WD on SBG it definitely performs above its price point. The edge is a double bevel, but it cuts nicely enough - and there is certainly a lot of blade to be had (it's pretty beefy - almost with a hira niku profile rather than the sharp but overly thin 'slivers' out there in the same $ mark). I'm sure you will get a lot of good use out of these - for $59 at Trueswords, I'd have to say that they are my favorite sub US$100 Katana... Kreig: You raise an interesting question here. Considering the material costs must be quite similar - it does make me wonder when some Chinese forge will start to make some half decent sub US$100 European blades... Hanwei do have some decent swords in their practical range. But that is about all that is on offer at this price point. Interesting... EDITED to add: Karma +1
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Post by YlliwCir on Oct 3, 2007 9:52:33 GMT
I am surprized at what you can get for less than a hundred dollars. I love my several sub $100 Japanese style swords too. Alas, too bad there aren't any western swords of this quality at this price point. Oh, well. I was just out cutting with my Musashi Hand Honed, and I think I'm turning back to the Dark Side again. ;D Nicely done review, amigo. edit Actually, Windlass makes some decent American Civil War sabers close to this price range and fantastic quality, but I'm talking more about medieval style swords. Where oh where can they be.... Yeah, I been looking at the 1860 light cavalry saber.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Oct 3, 2007 17:11:04 GMT
Nice review. I liked the look of the fittings. Much glossier than one would expect for the price. What are the menuki made of? Are they brass or plastic?
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Post by YlliwCir on Oct 3, 2007 19:13:22 GMT
Thanks, matt. I'm not sure on the menuki. Not brass, but could be some kind of light cast metal or a hard plastic. I couldn't scratch it with my fingernail. LOL. Good question for the people at Swords of Might. The fittings look really good to me, keep in mind this is my first real katana. ;D
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Post by YlliwCir on Oct 4, 2007 9:19:36 GMT
Hey Ric - sorry I was so late commenting here - I am always late coming to the party... (Fashionably late? Hehe, more like clueless). Anyway, I have to say that as I noted in my original review of the WD on SBG it definitely performs above its price point. The edge is a double bevel, but it cuts nicely enough - and there is certainly a lot of blade to be had (it's pretty beefy - almost with a hira niku profile rather than the sharp but overly thin 'slivers' out there in the same $ mark). I'm sure you will get a lot of good use out of these - for $59 at Trueswords, I'd have to say that they are my favorite sub US$100 Katana... EDITED to add: Karma +1 Thanks Paul, I agree this is a great deal. Tho I don't think it's the same sword you have, or at least the fittings appear to be quite different. Mine has a more rounded kashira and two mekugi, also the tsuba is squared off and the blade has a clear faux hamon. Could be because they came from two different stores. Anyhow they are both great cutters apparently. Mine. Musashi Wind Dragon Katana Yours? Bushido Musashi - Wind Dragon
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admin
Site Admin
Posts: 2,088
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Post by admin on Oct 5, 2007 7:20:17 GMT
Ah, ok - now I am confused! There is apparently now two Musashi Wind Dragons, and of course the Wind ($179). All we need now is the Dragon, and the Dragon Wind and the confusion will be complete...! Sorry about that mate - I really did think it was the same sword, another +1 Karma and 40 review points.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2007 12:30:49 GMT
Ric: nice review but a comment on your cutting technique if you don't mind. First you should relax your shoulders you are all tensed already which is why you aren't getting enough blade acceleration in the cut. The way that i suggest to most people is that instead of swinging right through, aim to stop just after you cut through the bottle this way you have to accelerate the blade faster through the bottle so that you get maximum cutting speed and so that you have enough time to stop. Also take a half step back from the target and just relax your shoulders and your body, you should be relaxed right up until the point you stop the blade. The only time you should tense is when you actually control the stopping of the blade. The other thing is that you need to learn where the sweet spot on your blade is, it is usually about 5 or 6 inches from the tip of the blade (depending on sword length of course.) Nice little bit of pickle chipping though and beautiful straight lines in your flat cuts. Very nice indeed. Hope this helps.
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Post by YlliwCir on Oct 5, 2007 18:28:14 GMT
Thanks, Paul, I was a bit confused myself when, lukebailey, pointed out my katana wasn't the same as the bushido he a had and got me looking closer. I'm in the market for a new sword, I'll pm ya when I decide where I'm gonna get it.
Thanks wraith, I take all suggestions on technique I can get as I only started cutting a month or so ago and am trying to learn.
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