Cold Steel 1860 Heavy Cavalry Saber (repost)
Oct 1, 2010 14:41:57 GMT
Post by Deleted on Oct 1, 2010 14:41:57 GMT
Review: Cold Steel U.S. 1860 Heavy Cavalry Saber (Factory Second/Shopworn)
Introduction
In mid-April 2010, I was stunned to learn that my grandfather lived, as he later described it, “a scenic drive,” from Cold Steel’s Ventura, CA facility, that the parking lot sale was to take place May 22-23, and through a phone conversation (I live in PA) he informed me that he would enjoy going out to attend. Now, I know that a lot of people don’t like Cold Steel for various reasons, but I have been a fan since I ordered a couple of their machetes (Panga and Heavy) when I was in college. My friends and I would order Chinese or pizza, watch the “More Proof” DVD, and enjoy the hyperbole, the mayhem, and discuss which of Cold Steel’s product line would best dispatch zombies. Julie liked the Battle Mace, the Torpedo, and Robert Vaughn, while Heather was in favor of the Special Forces Shovel. I tended to be all about their line of katana, but tastes change.
Getting back to the review at hand, the 1860 was a surprise gift from the parking lot sale. My grandfather said he saw this saber, and was impressed by its beauty. After having seen its cutting power in the most recent Proof DVD, I was pretty excited, even if the 1860 wasn’t my top pickat the time (it quickly grew on me, though!).
Historical Overview
Through a little bit of online research (for what it’s worth), I have been unable to find a historical M1860 Heavy Cavalry saber. Others in various forums have claimed that there is no M1860 Heavy Cavalry saber, and that this is instead a mislabeled 1840 Heavy Cavalry saber. Why CS would mislabel their sabers is anyone’s guess. Perhaps it is due to the M1840 being known as “Ol’ Wrist Breaker” that they wanted to get away from. I don’t really know.
Initial Impressions
The 1860 arrived with my other goodies in a heavy-duty cardboard box handmade by the man himself, my grandfather. I was beside myself with excitement and anticipation, but did have the foresight to snag a yardstick to show just how massive the box was.
The saber itself is no small thing either. That orange sticker on the scabbard is a price tag that reads “$100.” This sword is supposedly a factory second, but I could find no flaws in my initial handling. This may be a demonstration model or something. There was but a slight film of packing grease, but it was enough to protect it from any rust. After cleaning this off and dry handling it a bit, I have to admit that this saber, which I will continue to refer to as the M1860 for purposes of clarity, is gorgeous. Initial cutting went surprisingly well, with it zipping through a few different types of bottles with little trouble (this is before I honed the edge). It is surprisingly facile for a sword of its size, but is admittedly a bit blade-heavy, which is apparently a feature consistent with the originals.
Statistics
Blade Length: 35.5 inches
Handle Length: 5.5 inches
Overall Length: 41.5 inches
Guard Width: 4 inches
POB (Point of Balance): 7.5 inches in front of guard
COP (Center of Percussion): 5-10 inches from the point (7.5 inches from the point?)
Weight: 3 pounds on bathroom scale
Components
The Blade
The back of the blade on CS and most other functional sabers is usually sharpened from the tip back to 6+ inches, depending on the style of saber. The blade measures 5/16 of an inch thick at the hilt, tapers to 1/4 inch at 3.5 inches from the hilt, 1/8 inch at 9.5 inches from the point, and 1/16 of an inch at the tip. The polish is a beautiful mirror shine. The fuller is interesting to me, as there is a concave area almost 7/8 inch wide by 25 inches long, and within this fuller is a deeper fuller that measures 1/8 inch wide by 15.5 inches long. The fullers are symmetrical on each side of the blade, and do a good job of keeping such a big blade nice and user-friendly. The edge is maybe a bit too sharp to endure bouncing around in a steel scabbard, but is about perfect for bottles and the like. I tend to personally prefer a bit less than hair-popping sharp just for durability.
The Handle
The handle is black or very dark brown leather wrapped in braided brass wire. There is a smooth seem running down the handle’s edge side, and it is very comfortable in my hands. Aesthetically, I don’t normally like so much brass, but this was really done well.
The Guard
The guard of the 1860 Heavy Cavalry Saber is (what else?) more brass. That’s not a problem, as I said above, because it has been made to work somehow. If I really wanted to be picky (and for a US$100.00 with no apparent flaws, I don’t want to be picky), the polish inside the bars of the guard is not as highly polished as it is on the rest of the guard, but that critique is to satisfy the real sticklers out there. I think it’s nice enough to be on a US$200-$220 factory first, and wouldn’t expect a slicker polishing job until a $350 or higher price point. At that point, I'd be hesitant to cut with it.
The Pommel
The brass pommel is screwed in, so it is possible to disassemble it for cleaning or to retighten if it should somehow become loose. I will note that the way it is screwed in might take an unconventional driver or a pair of medium-fine needle nosed pliers (which might scratch the heck out of the rest of the pommel) to remove. The chances of having done enough damage to this sword to require removing or tightening the pommel are pretty slim in my humble opinion, though. This is one stout, strong piece of combat cutlery.
The Scabbard
The scabbard is really sturdy, and whoever built it should be proud of the job he or she did. It is steel, has two strong rings to suspend the scabbard from a belt (or saddle), and the mouth is wide enough to make replacing the blade easier than I expected. The blade is held in the scabbard by two flaps or paddles made of plastic, and it holds the saber securely without I haven’t attempted to take the scabbard apart yet, but if I ever get really bored or curious, I might make the attempt. Cold Steel advertizes that the scabbard can be used as an impact weapon or cudgel, and after seeing how solid this thing is (although it avoids being needlessly heavy), I have to concur. The finish on the exterior of the scabbard almost matches the blade in terms of polish.
Handling Characteristics
For such a big blade, the 1860 Heavy Cavalry Saber is really pretty facile (see notes about grip strength that follow). It’s big, sturdy, and very long. It is almost as heavy as the CS Scottish Broadsword, but lacks the heavy basket guard that keeps the broadsword so ridiculously well-balanced. The 1860 is admittedly blade-heavy. Consider the C.O.B. of 7.5” in front of the guard. While as a backyard cutter it just feels a bit blade-heavy, I can see how using this sword from horseback might earn it the nickname of “Ol’ Wrist Breaker.” I also think fencing with this saber would require a fairly strong grip and wrist, but that’s really just another excuse to keep practicing with it.
Test Cutting
I had thought about borrowing a horse from my Amish neighbors to see how the 1860 handles cabbages from horseback, but realized I’m not comfortable riding horses without a three-foot blade, so I scratched the idea. I also thought about how in the original Dawn of the Dead (1978), Tom Savini’s character uses a cavalry saber from a motorcycle to decapitate zombies. In the end, I decided to do my cutting on foot as always. Sorry if that’s too pedestrian for you. Please forgive my rank beginner form and presentation.
Other Targets
Bundled/Soaked Pasture Grass
Soaked Newsprint
Conclusions
Even in inexperienced hands, it cuts!
Pros
Are you serious? It is an awesome sword that only cost US$100! Add to that its admirable durability, fit, and finish, and this is just too cool. It also does a great job of cutting a range of typical backyard cutting targets. While the MSRP on all of Cold Steel’s line is really high, trueswords.com and kultofathena.com are two very well-reputed sites that offer great prices and customer service.
Cons
A factory first is still only US$200, but to get this sword for $100, you have a hit or miss opportunity once or twice a year on site at Cold Steel. This is a long, rather hefty saber that does require a bit of grip and wrist strength to use with confidence. It actually may be too heavy for some individuals.
The Bottom Line
While I did the cutting and wrote most of this review in June, I'm getting it posted in September. My technique has improved, and the 1860 now feels lighter and more facile than I ever imagined it could. In spite of some pell work and plenty of botched cuts, this saber remains rock solid and shows no signs of problems. If it piques your interest and you have the funds, it has proven to be a very rugged, durable sword that is a lot of fun to use in backyard cutting. It is also pretty enough to hang for display, spousal opinion and decorating tastes permitting.
Introduction
In mid-April 2010, I was stunned to learn that my grandfather lived, as he later described it, “a scenic drive,” from Cold Steel’s Ventura, CA facility, that the parking lot sale was to take place May 22-23, and through a phone conversation (I live in PA) he informed me that he would enjoy going out to attend. Now, I know that a lot of people don’t like Cold Steel for various reasons, but I have been a fan since I ordered a couple of their machetes (Panga and Heavy) when I was in college. My friends and I would order Chinese or pizza, watch the “More Proof” DVD, and enjoy the hyperbole, the mayhem, and discuss which of Cold Steel’s product line would best dispatch zombies. Julie liked the Battle Mace, the Torpedo, and Robert Vaughn, while Heather was in favor of the Special Forces Shovel. I tended to be all about their line of katana, but tastes change.
Getting back to the review at hand, the 1860 was a surprise gift from the parking lot sale. My grandfather said he saw this saber, and was impressed by its beauty. After having seen its cutting power in the most recent Proof DVD, I was pretty excited, even if the 1860 wasn’t my top pickat the time (it quickly grew on me, though!).
Historical Overview
Through a little bit of online research (for what it’s worth), I have been unable to find a historical M1860 Heavy Cavalry saber. Others in various forums have claimed that there is no M1860 Heavy Cavalry saber, and that this is instead a mislabeled 1840 Heavy Cavalry saber. Why CS would mislabel their sabers is anyone’s guess. Perhaps it is due to the M1840 being known as “Ol’ Wrist Breaker” that they wanted to get away from. I don’t really know.
Initial Impressions
The 1860 arrived with my other goodies in a heavy-duty cardboard box handmade by the man himself, my grandfather. I was beside myself with excitement and anticipation, but did have the foresight to snag a yardstick to show just how massive the box was.
The saber itself is no small thing either. That orange sticker on the scabbard is a price tag that reads “$100.” This sword is supposedly a factory second, but I could find no flaws in my initial handling. This may be a demonstration model or something. There was but a slight film of packing grease, but it was enough to protect it from any rust. After cleaning this off and dry handling it a bit, I have to admit that this saber, which I will continue to refer to as the M1860 for purposes of clarity, is gorgeous. Initial cutting went surprisingly well, with it zipping through a few different types of bottles with little trouble (this is before I honed the edge). It is surprisingly facile for a sword of its size, but is admittedly a bit blade-heavy, which is apparently a feature consistent with the originals.
Statistics
Blade Length: 35.5 inches
Handle Length: 5.5 inches
Overall Length: 41.5 inches
Guard Width: 4 inches
POB (Point of Balance): 7.5 inches in front of guard
COP (Center of Percussion): 5-10 inches from the point (7.5 inches from the point?)
Weight: 3 pounds on bathroom scale
Components
The Blade
The back of the blade on CS and most other functional sabers is usually sharpened from the tip back to 6+ inches, depending on the style of saber. The blade measures 5/16 of an inch thick at the hilt, tapers to 1/4 inch at 3.5 inches from the hilt, 1/8 inch at 9.5 inches from the point, and 1/16 of an inch at the tip. The polish is a beautiful mirror shine. The fuller is interesting to me, as there is a concave area almost 7/8 inch wide by 25 inches long, and within this fuller is a deeper fuller that measures 1/8 inch wide by 15.5 inches long. The fullers are symmetrical on each side of the blade, and do a good job of keeping such a big blade nice and user-friendly. The edge is maybe a bit too sharp to endure bouncing around in a steel scabbard, but is about perfect for bottles and the like. I tend to personally prefer a bit less than hair-popping sharp just for durability.
The Handle
The handle is black or very dark brown leather wrapped in braided brass wire. There is a smooth seem running down the handle’s edge side, and it is very comfortable in my hands. Aesthetically, I don’t normally like so much brass, but this was really done well.
The Guard
The guard of the 1860 Heavy Cavalry Saber is (what else?) more brass. That’s not a problem, as I said above, because it has been made to work somehow. If I really wanted to be picky (and for a US$100.00 with no apparent flaws, I don’t want to be picky), the polish inside the bars of the guard is not as highly polished as it is on the rest of the guard, but that critique is to satisfy the real sticklers out there. I think it’s nice enough to be on a US$200-$220 factory first, and wouldn’t expect a slicker polishing job until a $350 or higher price point. At that point, I'd be hesitant to cut with it.
The Pommel
The brass pommel is screwed in, so it is possible to disassemble it for cleaning or to retighten if it should somehow become loose. I will note that the way it is screwed in might take an unconventional driver or a pair of medium-fine needle nosed pliers (which might scratch the heck out of the rest of the pommel) to remove. The chances of having done enough damage to this sword to require removing or tightening the pommel are pretty slim in my humble opinion, though. This is one stout, strong piece of combat cutlery.
The Scabbard
The scabbard is really sturdy, and whoever built it should be proud of the job he or she did. It is steel, has two strong rings to suspend the scabbard from a belt (or saddle), and the mouth is wide enough to make replacing the blade easier than I expected. The blade is held in the scabbard by two flaps or paddles made of plastic, and it holds the saber securely without I haven’t attempted to take the scabbard apart yet, but if I ever get really bored or curious, I might make the attempt. Cold Steel advertizes that the scabbard can be used as an impact weapon or cudgel, and after seeing how solid this thing is (although it avoids being needlessly heavy), I have to concur. The finish on the exterior of the scabbard almost matches the blade in terms of polish.
Handling Characteristics
For such a big blade, the 1860 Heavy Cavalry Saber is really pretty facile (see notes about grip strength that follow). It’s big, sturdy, and very long. It is almost as heavy as the CS Scottish Broadsword, but lacks the heavy basket guard that keeps the broadsword so ridiculously well-balanced. The 1860 is admittedly blade-heavy. Consider the C.O.B. of 7.5” in front of the guard. While as a backyard cutter it just feels a bit blade-heavy, I can see how using this sword from horseback might earn it the nickname of “Ol’ Wrist Breaker.” I also think fencing with this saber would require a fairly strong grip and wrist, but that’s really just another excuse to keep practicing with it.
Test Cutting
I had thought about borrowing a horse from my Amish neighbors to see how the 1860 handles cabbages from horseback, but realized I’m not comfortable riding horses without a three-foot blade, so I scratched the idea. I also thought about how in the original Dawn of the Dead (1978), Tom Savini’s character uses a cavalry saber from a motorcycle to decapitate zombies. In the end, I decided to do my cutting on foot as always. Sorry if that’s too pedestrian for you. Please forgive my rank beginner form and presentation.
Other Targets
Bundled/Soaked Pasture Grass
Soaked Newsprint
Conclusions
Even in inexperienced hands, it cuts!
Pros
Are you serious? It is an awesome sword that only cost US$100! Add to that its admirable durability, fit, and finish, and this is just too cool. It also does a great job of cutting a range of typical backyard cutting targets. While the MSRP on all of Cold Steel’s line is really high, trueswords.com and kultofathena.com are two very well-reputed sites that offer great prices and customer service.
Cons
A factory first is still only US$200, but to get this sword for $100, you have a hit or miss opportunity once or twice a year on site at Cold Steel. This is a long, rather hefty saber that does require a bit of grip and wrist strength to use with confidence. It actually may be too heavy for some individuals.
The Bottom Line
While I did the cutting and wrote most of this review in June, I'm getting it posted in September. My technique has improved, and the 1860 now feels lighter and more facile than I ever imagined it could. In spite of some pell work and plenty of botched cuts, this saber remains rock solid and shows no signs of problems. If it piques your interest and you have the funds, it has proven to be a very rugged, durable sword that is a lot of fun to use in backyard cutting. It is also pretty enough to hang for display, spousal opinion and decorating tastes permitting.
