how to sharpen just about any production sword made

I have sharpened a lot of swords both for myself and for other people. I have also been asked a lot of questions about the subject so I am going to use this thread to port over all my old sharpening tutorials from the old forum and to answer any new questions that arise here.

I mostly sharpen my swords on my trusty belt sander these days but I do still do some work by hand so first my videos on hand sharpening/polishing. I still do this mostly inbetween the 1200 belt sanding and stropping to remove unsightly belt marks and help refine the polish and edge. If I started with the belt sander I only use the 1000 - 2000 grit paper; 1000 between the 500 and 1200 grit belts, and again with the 2000 paper between the 1200 and leather belts.

I also have begun to clamp down the blade and move the paper over the secured blade. less chances of accidentally taking off a finger and works the same way with the same motions.




here's my most recent update vid:



here's a link to where to buy the belt sander I use. it works really well:
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=2485

Use these belts:
www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 72&p=48040

you can do everything up to the leather belt with the belt series:
D. Aluminum Oxide Grinding Belts
the 500 and 1200 grits are all you really need unless you are sharpening blunt swords or removing heavy secondary bevels

I also like the A. 15µ (Micron) Silicon Carbide Sharpening Belts as an in-between for the 500 and 1200 (the 500 grits are marked 20 micron and the 1200 are marked 9 micron putting the 15 micron between them in grit).

at the bottom of that page is: E. Leather Honing Belts and a link labled "ACC" which brings you to the page that has the honing compound. here: www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... at=1,43072

here's how to do it:


this machine works great for CONVEX edges such as lenticular or appleseed shaped edges but is not suitable for hollow ground blades; for these you need a fancier machine with the right kind of wheel. for flat ground blades there is a flat belt-guide that comes with the machine.

some more tips and advice:

always try to establish as sharp an edge as possible with the coarsest stone/file/belt you have

remember to check your work constantly at first, once steel is removed there's no putting it back

keep a bucket of cool water and a rag near by if you use the belt sander

be very careful of your sword's point with the belt sander.

Edit: I much prefer belts from www.trugrit.com these days they have a wide variety for all grinder sizes and types.