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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2008 3:25:35 GMT
Hmm. I actually have a piece of pipe the right size that would work. I'll have to think about this. It may seem that a Windlass isn't worth the trouble, but aside from the hilt issues, the sword is great. Very nicely balanced.
Thanks Dan. I don't think it will crack the grip, the hammering I did before gave it a bit of wobble room, so I would have to peen it again anyways.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jan 17, 2008 10:25:27 GMT
My concern is that rather than bend at the side of the blade where you want to it would bend in the centre as it is perforated (for the tang) and possibly weaker. Also if it is springy it would need to travel further than where it's meant to set, damaging the blade and grip in the process, creating room for the cross to rattle once tension is released. I dunno if I'd do that while the sword is assembled.
That cross must be 10mm steel. It's gonna take serious force to move it. I tried it on my 10mm Knightly cross, to see if I can make it like the Windlass, and when it didn't want to budge I gave up before damaging it. Though that was 9260. Also if it is stainless like Hanweis maybe it could be brittle and break???
Maybe just pretend it bent on a skull crushing blow against a Norman Helm. Maybe antique that sucker, rewrap the grip in Jute or Hemp, and get some acid and gun blue onto it. Did you see the Gun Blueing I did to my G2 Scot last night? Check the customisation threads.
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 17, 2008 14:56:28 GMT
Brenno, if you look closely at that side of the guard you can see that it has already been bent down at the center penetration and was likely bent during assembly.
The reason you clamp the bent arm and pull on the rest of the sword is so that you can watch the rest of the sword and STOP if it bends in the wrong place.
Windlass uses 304 Stainless Alloy for their fittings and I see no reason to assume this is any other material. This means it is resistant to bending but malleable under proper force and should move under the appropriate, controlled pressure. I have some 40 foot bars of the stuff in my shop and bend it all the time.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2008 15:40:41 GMT
Alright, so I just take it nice and slow. Funny I didn't think of the pipe before. It's just increasing the leverage. The force I was applying was not nearly enough, and I couldn't get the proper leverage on the tiny crossguard.
Nice and slow....
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 17, 2008 21:29:25 GMT
Well, the guys do have a point in that you are running a risk of breaking things. I do not think that likely, but still it is a possibility.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2008 13:51:57 GMT
Well, I did what Dan said, and this is the result. I wrapped the cross arms in tape, stuck one in the vice, slipped a skinny pipe pipe over the other, and proceeded to bend the cross guard into the right shape. It worked like a charm, and I couldn't be happier. It still isn't 100% even but its close enough, and you can't tell unless your looking for it. I had to fiddle around, by tying a rope around the blade to a conveniently placed shelving unit to stop it from moving with the guard. After it was in position, I filled the grip with gorilla glue that I had warmed up, (so it would spread down between grip and tang) and re peened the pommel. The thing is solid now, and I'll be re wrapping the grip soon. Thanks Dan!
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Jan 18, 2008 14:14:59 GMT
don't cover that amazeing grain it's to pretty to hide
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jan 18, 2008 15:02:09 GMT
Nah wrap it, if you want to look at wood put your sword on the coffee table. What wrap are you doing DI?
Leather with risers? Cord? Or twisted wires? If you need help with twisted wires let me know, I've doen a few now and may save you some stress.
If you're doing leather with risers do your self a favour and only use true leather cord for the risers. Its the only thing that doesn't fray and gives a very tidy join.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2008 15:08:06 GMT
Thin hemp cord underwrap, with one riser between my index and middle finger, followed by a green dyed thin sheepskin overwrap with temporary cord wrap to give it the texture. It's my first time doing it, but I've read the guides, and it isn't that hard.
It's a pretty standard wrap, but I think it'll look good.
Don't worry about the leather riser. I bought a bunch of kangaroo lace for odd projects, and it's pretty thin, so I'll use that.
Edit: I just felt like pointing out that those aren't scratches on the blade or guard. It's just dust and fluff in the oil.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jan 19, 2008 5:06:25 GMT
It will look great, I'm glad you've fixed those problems, its such an awesome sword. I wish we could get them in Aus. Thats why I made my knightly, as a substitute for the XIV.
Well, have you done the wrap yet? C'mon, I wanna see it.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2008 16:37:27 GMT
Nice job on the guard DI. Congrats on getting it straight.
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Post by Jeff K. ( Jak) on Jan 19, 2008 18:21:41 GMT
good work DI! I agree with the green leather.... ive been looking at an ATrim with green grip and scabbard as well as a couple of VA swords. I think it looks really cool. I would "Brown" my furniture with the green wrap. I'm not making a suggestion to you with the browning, just sayin it looks cool.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2008 0:50:09 GMT
I have the cord underwrap and riser in place, and the leather is cut. I just have to wait for the dye to arrive in the mail. I bought it from ebay since it was cheaper, (funny that. ) so it may take a week. However, I can tell you that is should look quite nice. Jak, as for the furniture, I think I will eventually give the whole thing a satin finish, since I can'y remove it. I try to make it look like an Albion, so we'll se how it goes.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2008 23:13:06 GMT
Here's a glimpse of how it's going for you impatient people. Not terribly pretty, but it'll be hidden under an attractive green sheepskin. Edit: Oh, those spaces near the guard and pommel are to keep the wrap from extinding outwards past the pommel and cross.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jan 21, 2008 7:23:20 GMT
Its funny I often see leather wraps left overlapping the pommel or cross, including albions.
I trim mine up with a scalpel.
Just an observation.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2008 13:37:41 GMT
Oh, I don't mean overlapping. It's just that alot of sub-300 swords seem to have the leather wrap stick out, so there isn't a smooth transition between the faces of the cross and the grip. Like this:
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Post by ShooterMike on Jan 21, 2008 14:51:05 GMT
Hey DI,
One of the things I have noticed on a lot (most?) Albion, ATrim and CF single handers is the use of a riser at each end. The leather wrap swells over the riser and then disappears between the riser and the guard/pommel. Just some food for thought...
I'd be glad to send you some pics if you like.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2008 15:08:35 GMT
Sure, I could always use pics as reference.
The problem with the windlass grips is that they're not quite the right fit. They're usually a little wide at that point anyways, so you have to sand them down a bit. Which isn't the easiest thing to do when the assembly is peened and you don't want to mess up the pommel or guard. I managed though...
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2008 17:04:36 GMT
I'd try to find a garage which has a press, such as is used to install bearings on shafts. It should be a simple matter to place the sword vertically in the press, hilt up, place a wooden block under the bent guard, and gently press the down against the pommel until the bent guard straightens to match the other guard. We have such a press in the shop where I work, and this would be a very easy job, might take 15 minutes or so, mostly to round up wood blocks of the proper size.
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