|
Post by Brendan Olszowy on Sept 22, 2007 1:56:11 GMT
Latest etching. Nordic Runes from the Elder Futhark. On my Hanwei Viking:
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2007 4:34:37 GMT
Nice work Brenno looks great.
|
|
|
Post by Dan Davis on Sept 23, 2007 1:44:36 GMT
nicely done.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2007 3:26:51 GMT
Looks great Brenno. I'm going to try this out myself, as soon as i can settle on a design.
|
|
|
Post by grahamts on Sept 30, 2007 2:48:39 GMT
brenno, how goes the diy electro etcher? Caswells do a kit and they give the power supply as 10 volt 2 amps if that is any help Also found this quote on Blade forums
|
|
|
Post by Brendan Olszowy on Sept 30, 2007 3:27:40 GMT
Thanks Graham. I have most of the equipment now but am having trouble finding the electrolite in Aus.
I have a dremel now however and have done some cool little drawings on a pommel and scabbard with that.
|
|
|
Post by grahamts on Sept 30, 2007 8:17:21 GMT
Hi brenno, Caswells have an outlet in Australia, althoughy they don't list electro-etch they may be able to help. Their site is australia.caswellplating.com/. Also as a matter of interest I found a toy atching kit on ebay which I've ordered ;D I have no idea what it contains but it's powered by 2 AA batteries, maybe it uses salt water as the electrolyte, dunno Anyway keep up the good work Graham
|
|
|
Post by grahamts on Sept 30, 2007 18:12:20 GMT
Hi brenno again Found out that the toy etcher is a vibrating marker However here is a link for a DIY electro etcher: www.chriscrawfordknives.com/CCK/Etcher_Tutorial/Default.asp which is useful , all that is needed now is the electrolyte, ferric chloride maybe and the stencil paper, for which you could possibly use duplicator stencils
|
|
|
Post by Brendan Olszowy on Sept 30, 2007 18:25:12 GMT
Awesome. Thanks for chasing that up for me, I'll shoot them an email and see if they have the electrolite. I've got a power supply ready to go. I'd give you karma but I have to wait an hour.
I'll have to think about how to make the stencils.
|
|
|
Post by grahamts on Sept 30, 2007 20:27:37 GMT
Hi Brenno, I've been having lots of fun googling electro etching ;D It looks as if ferric chloride would probably work as the electrolyte, especially on copper. The easiest form of stencil material seems to be "press n peel" pcb masking material for which you need access to either a laser printer or photocopier.
Once I get a chance I'll probably build one myself, although I won't be etching any blades, just decorating bits and pieces such as habaki and fuchi ;D
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2008 18:49:00 GMT
Latest etching. Nordic Runes from the Elder Futhark. On my Hanwei Viking: brendan rebecca?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2008 18:57:37 GMT
Oh I get it. no wonder that rune looks funny. Brandan <3 Rebecca. Good job, dude.
+1 Karma
|
|
|
Post by oos3thoo on Mar 21, 2008 20:02:59 GMT
Oh I get it! For some reason I never thought to read them.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2008 20:15:55 GMT
Seth, you can read the elder futhark?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2008 9:04:36 GMT
I like your runes Brenno, worked out well. As a somewhat belated reply to your question, no I have not ever used the technique myself. Winter is so dark and depressing around here I don't get much work of any kind done and spend most of my free time rough housing with the kids.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2008 19:41:33 GMT
|
|
|
Post by oos3thoo on Apr 14, 2008 19:45:41 GMT
Seth, you can read the elder futhark? I can read most runic lettering... When done in English.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2008 1:12:54 GMT
Nice job Robo, can't wait to see more.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 4, 2009 5:44:44 GMT
Some additional notes on etching. You can use just about anything as a resist: sharpie marker, tape, paint, laquer, wax, etc. Possibly the best acid to use on steel would be hydrochloric (H2SO4), but you would need a heavy duty resist and a good deal of caution. PLEASE DO NOT try this on a sword first time out as I haven't tested it yet. Something less drastic would be ferric chloride. Remember that if you have to stop the process you can't just wash it off with water; you'll have to neutralize the acid with a base such as ammonia. That's all I can say without digging though my books... I realize that this is an older thread, but i was checking it out for a refresher, since i dont have the right equipment. First i want to thank bren for a wonderful way to simply do what is normally a little more complicated. (I hate tar). second, i would like to bring to attention the above post quote... Hydrochloric acid is HCl and there is another Chloric acid, HClO3. H2SO4 is sulfuric acid. there is another sulfur type acid H2SO3 whic is sulfurous acid. although the above quote was probably a typo, the importance of chemical handling safety dictates that you know exactly what you are using for PPE purposes as well as neutralizing process. anyway hope this helps.
|
|