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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2009 20:28:10 GMT
Okay, so I'm thinking that it's about time for me to get a buckler. Here's my dilemma and my criteria for getting one. I want it to be fairly broad spanning in terms of time periods so it will go with a variety of periods. I'd like it to hold up to sparring with wooden and controlled drills with steel. And I'd like it for under a hundred. So, I was looking at the Get Dressed For Battle bucklers on KoA. They're 14 gauge steel, I like the looks, and they're cheap. Any suggestions?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2009 20:38:11 GMT
I’ve handled one of the GDFB One of these www.casiberia.com/product_details.asp?id=AB0114They are nice looking and felt solid, I’ve not used it so I could not testify as to how well it would hold up. When I looked at it my only worry was that the handle was attached to the rest of the buckler with a two rivets one on either side of the handle. I wondered how long a rivet like that would last under a lot of punishment, and whether the handle would start to rattle after a while.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2009 22:14:26 GMT
When the rivet pops, and it will eventually, get some copper rivets and a hammer and something metal to use as an anvil (I have a quarter inch think piece of steel secured to a wood table as my anvil) and replace the rivet. It's not hard. And rivets, depending on type, can either hold up to significant punishment or pop on the first blow.
You don't want blind rivets, pop rivets, or speed rivets. Basically, if it involves a riveting tool, stay away from it. Hollow, double cap, copper rivets aren't bad, but don't last as long as basic, solid rivets. Copper is considered the best material for rivets because it has a good life span and is easier to work than steel.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2009 22:25:44 GMT
I like what Rat King posted. 14 gage steel riveted together will hold up well and is suitable for stopping full power blows. The price is $55. Not bad. I have not seen anything cheaper. For comparison sake Windrose charges $65 for 14", 14 gage and $75 for 18", 14 gage. www.windrosearmoury.com/zc/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=buckler If you are planing to do only light work, you might be interested in a 20 gage buckler with will be half the weight. www.windrosearmoury.com/zc/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=92For rapier fencing I would use the lighter 20 gage buckler. For anything that involves blocking cuts, I would use a 14 gage buckler. Taran is right about getting some replacement rivets. You may be able to bum some off the merchant at no charge if you ask. I know windrose would have tons laying around because they do some armoring themselves. I use a sledge hammer as an anvil to hammer on for small jobs. For bigger jobs I have used the fire-hydrant outside my house. Don't worry too much about loosing rivets, the rivets should last a long time anyway. The buckler gives more to the impact.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 2:26:03 GMT
I think I'll be heading in the direction of a 12" fluted Buckler from GDFB, it looks to be a solid piece o' steel. I guess another question would be, if I eventually want to head into the territory of I.33, is there a special size or type of buckler I need to get?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 4:14:19 GMT
Into the territory of what?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 4:22:39 GMT
Start studying sword and buckler per the I.33 manual. It's next on my list of areas of weaponry to study.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 5:07:05 GMT
There is a few moves in I.33 that involve hooking the buckler under someones arm and coming up. Basically, you are executing an arm-lock while holding the buckler. A smaller buckler facilitates this better. If you do any full speed sparring though, you will find a small buckler harder to block with. I would not go smaller then 12". They make some ridiculous ones that are 4" wide and just cover the fist.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 13:20:14 GMT
LOL @ taran
I.33, or more properly, the Royal Armouries Ms. I.33, also known as the Tower manuscript (found in the Tower of London I think), is a sword and buckler training manual believed to be of late 13th early 14th C origin. It is one of those 'illuminated' manuscripts- just means its illustrated, but it shows some pretty detailed drawings of the different moves in sword and buckler fighting.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 14:57:44 GMT
Thanks, Ebon. Though "Illuminated" means a specific form of illustration that often enough covers whatever the content of the manuscript was, making it impossible to use for anyone not already conversant with said content.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 17:55:51 GMT
I've got one of the GDFB 12" fluted bucklers from KOA on the way. Like you, I'm branching out in my WMA studies from all longsword and into some I.33. Just got my Hanwei / Tinker blunt arming sword in the post yesterday (review to come), so getting gear up for it.
will let you know when it arrives and first impressions.....
cheers,
Bill
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 18:10:58 GMT
Yes please! I'd love to hear your impressions of it. It's always helpful to have someone with firsthand experience in it. Thanks you guys for your help.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 18:39:21 GMT
Thanks, Ebon. Though "Illuminated" means a specific form of illustration that often enough covers whatever the content of the manuscript was, making it impossible to use for anyone not already conversant with said content. Oh Maannn.... its doesn't [glow=red,2,300]Glow in the Dark[/glow]
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 21:14:32 GMT
Here's a tip from someone who's owned two bucklers and did a bit of I.33:
* Do not go larger than about 10" in diameter. Big bucklers are hard to do many techniques with.
* Steel bucklers will need to be coated, at least on the back, as it will rust where you lay it on your arm.
M.
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Post by ShooterMike on Sept 15, 2009 22:41:37 GMT
Just a word of thanks for this thread. I have been sitting on the fence about a pair of bucklers for a while now. This has convinced me to take the plunge. I just ordered a pair of 9" fluted GDFB bucklers from KOA. At $34.95 each they seem like a good investment in a pair of "learners."
These are to go with a pair of New Sterling Arms wooden waster arming swords for I.33 experimentation.
Thanks for all the info guys.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 23:33:31 GMT
Hey Mike getting into sword and buckler hey ........... good move, so a few more arming swords are gonna be on your agenda ......... This is a spooky post I've been torn with bucklers over the last three weeks, was looking at the leather covered bucklers but couldnt make my mind up so likely get a simple fluted or plate one from KoA next order. Everyone just get the buckler bug all of a sudden :/
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 23:42:43 GMT
Hoooray! Too many I.33 youtube videos go to a man's head very quickly. It's funny how I start looking at trashcan lids and going "hmmmmmm"...
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2009 0:22:07 GMT
I've had a pattern for making a wooden buckler (iron boss, covered in linen and edges covered with rawhide that Roland Warzecha from the German fight school Hammaborg sent me some time back....started at one point to make one, then lost the instructions.....need to see if he will send it to me again.
Yes, more I.33.....I'm going to need a support group for this.....outta my comfort zone away from the longsword......
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Post by Jeff K. ( Jak) on Sept 16, 2009 2:04:45 GMT
I personally have my eye on this one. www.armor.com/armor129.html I have used this style before and the concave shape really helps catching thrusts! For now I just have a wooden one that I made myself. I bought the small bucklr/boss from hanwei and riveted it on to a plywood disc that I rimmed with steel. Mine is a little large for a buckler at 15" and some grapples are tough but it was a good one to practice with. Here's the one I made....quite easy to do. I used big nails that I cut and ground to shape....they are extremely tough, but need a real pounding to peen. Brass rivets are the way to go in my opinion.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2009 3:15:06 GMT
Thanks, Ebon. Though "Illuminated" means a specific form of illustration that often enough covers whatever the content of the manuscript was, making it impossible to use for anyone not already conversant with said content. Oh Maannn.... its doesn't [glow=red,2,300]Glow in the Dark[/glow] He said, himself, that he wasn't certain exactly what it meant. I was just clearing up His confusion because He was looking for more info. You big Blue Meany.
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