Windlass, Stromloswords sabers as training weapons

Link?

Actually, it's these guys:

www.medieval-arms.co.uk/

Those are not Weapon Edge but rather look like the Deepeeka line.

Hotspur; fwiw and in my guesstimation

Some of them are definitely WeaponEdge. It is probably a mix of brands.

Well you know all mine are Weaponedge as they are my supplier (and I dont play cloak and dagger about it).

If the pics look alot like www.stromloswords.com or www.weaponedge.com it;s a good bet. On my site the extra views are found by selecting a nationality from the top left drop menu.

REgards,

Rob

Hello Paapa,
I have never sparred with anyone, just practicing from my printed material and watching Cold Steel's "Fighting with the Sabre and Cutlass" DVD, and with my Pell, etc..

Anyway, I have several of Windless' swords I bought through their Museum Replicas, Ltd. store over in Conyers, Georgia. I have two of their Viking swords and have bought like five of their 1860 Lt. Cav sabres, seveal spears, a Viking helmet, etc.. I love their swords and all.

I prefer the U.S. 1860 Lt. Cav sabre personally. It is patterened after the French sabre of Napoleon's time. The main difference to me is that where as the guard is almost identicle as far as the bars go, the 1860 has an added solid brass section in the center of it, all around the blade, whereas the French one does not.

I practice with the U.S. 1860 Lt. Cav sword and have done so for years, and with the Windless one two or three years. My Windless repros are indenticle to Ames Sword Company's repro 1860. The Ames is made in India, at least the blade, with the exact same dimensions as the Windless one, and just assembled in America at the Ames Sword Co.'s shop.

As I was saying, I practice the sabre drill from "Gen. Cooke's Cavalry Tactics 1862" and pratice as I said along with Cold Steel's "Fighting with the Sabre and Cutlass" DVD, and practice sparring and swatting my pell (a head high stand hung with car tires). My sabre, the handle, etc., is just as tight and durable as when I first bought it. I have practiced with it so much that there is spot on the leather grip covering that is worn raw from my thumb and hand. And the handle is still tight.

Now, the edge as it comes has been discussed. But I'll say their balance, thickness, and distal taper is not "exactly" like the originals, but usable (see the review and comparison I posted on this site). I did some grinding and altering on mine to make it almost just the same weight and width dimensions as an original 1860 Lt. Cav sabre a friend of mine has that was imported during the War for Southern Independence from H. Boker in Germany. It was carried by his gr gr grandfather in a Confederate cavalry unit. The blade width in the rear or "forte" of the blade could not be replicated due to the fact that the original 1860s were near 1/4 inch at the hilt and distal taper led down to 3/16ths in middle on down to the point. The repros are 3/16ths from hilt to about 10" from the point.

But I highly recommend Windless' U.S. 1860 Cavalry sabres for sport or sparring. I consider them to be good sabres, especially at $98.00 apiece (that is what they wre when I bought them). If I had to fight a real fight or duel to the death using repro sabres, I would use this MRL (Windless) sabre.

By the way, I understand that MRL/Windless is now offering the U.S. 1842 Hvy Cav Sabre. It was favored by C.S. General Forrest I have read. I have yet to handle one of MRL's new Hvy models.

I had Cold Steel's U.S. Hvy Cav Sabre and while it was well made, well balanced and all, it was too bulky and heavy for my liking. Besides, after having it for just a little while, handling it all the time, etc, the hilt or handle loosened up to where every time you shake it you feel and hear that tiny click. And the guts came out of the scabbard (just a glued in pad with plastic strips to hold the blade in scabbard) so that now if you tilt it the sabre just falls out. I don't like that. So now that sword is now hanging in a buddy's pawn shop around here with a $125.00 price tag on it. I handled it the other day, and it is still a nice sword but just too heavy and bulky for my liking.


Good luck finding you a good practice and sparring sabre.
Later,
Freebooter
Alabama

That seems a bit strange to me, no offense. Going by the stats I've seen, it should only be marginally heavier then the Windlass version -as in an ounce or two- and with a lower POB. Is it really that big a difference?

Just got the Windlass "Nashville Plow" saber a couple of days ago. First impressions are mixed. The saber is finished quite well. Hilt is peened and the construction seemes solid. The handle is done well, leather cover and wire wrap is neat. I havent done any cutting with it yet, I intend to sharpen the blade first.

Blade, as seems to be with all Windlass sabers, is a bit thin and there is not much distal taper, so the balance point is quite far down the blade. Still it is not too bad, just might take some time to get used to. Tip is sharp enough as it is. The blade is not whippy but bends nicely and returns true so the temper is good.

I would like to make a some reshaping of the blade, as it did not cost much there is not a great loss if I ruin it. What I had in mind is to take some material off the tipmost half to lighten it while sharpening.I presume it is not a good idea to use power tools, that might ruin the temper. I planned to make the blade a little thinner 30-40 cm from the tip. What do you suggest, is this possible with files and sandpaper on a wooden block?