Ritter Steel Reverse Blade Katana
Jun 28, 2008 22:51:17 GMT
Post by Deleted on Jun 28, 2008 22:51:17 GMT
Ritter Steel Reverse Blade Katana
Review by Chad Werner, Ellettsville, IN (USA)
Knights Edge Description:
“Another Ritter Steel first - a genuine, fully functional Reverse Blade Sword! They have created an authentic Japanese style reverse blade katana featuring the traditional hand braided diamond pattern cord wrap upon a shimmering silver fabric with four dragon menuki inset. The blackened steel tsuba and pommel are hand pounded. The sharp functional high carbon steel reverse blade is mounted with a traditional copper habaki which attests to its quality. The scabbard on this reverse blade sword is hand made from wood, and covered in rich black leather.
For those unfamiliar with the reverse blade sword, the sharp side is opposite where you would normally expect it, while the normal cutting side, is the wide unsharpened portion of the blade. The idea behind this is when striking your opponent as you would with a normal sword, the opponent would be stunned when hit by the reverse blade, not cut. As this reverse blade katana is a real sword, great care should be taken as hitting someone could cause serious injury, even death! This is a real sword not a toy!
The Ritter Steel high carbon steel reverse blade is hand pounded and forged over hot coals, using many of the original techniques passed down through the generations of ancient sword smiths. Each tsuba and end cap is individually hand cast in steel with a traditional solid copper habaki hand fitted to each 27" long, 1-5/16" wide steel blade. The overall length of the reverse blade sword is 38". The diameter of the tsuba is 3-1/2". The weight of the reverse blade sword is about 2-3/4 lbs, the sheath is about 3/4lbs.The workmanship put into each sword attests to each sword being an authentically functional original work of art!”
As with most people wanting this kind of sword, I am a huge anime fan! I enjoyed watching Samurai X and Rurouni Kenshin and I liked what Kenshin stood for and found the concept of his sakabatō (reverse-blade sword) intriguing. When I had a little extra spending money, I began researching the sword to see if anyone was making it. This must have been when the sword really started taking off because I found numerous companies selling the sword. Only problem was that most of these swords were made of stainless steel and I desired to own my first functional sword. The first functional one I came across was described as being made from folded high-carbon steel and was selling at almost a thousand dollars. Though it was a beautiful sword, this was WAY out of my budget. Then I came across Knights Edge for the first time. There I found Ritter Steel’s Reverse Blade “Katana.” It was priced well under $200 and was hand forged from high carbon steel! I was happy as a pig in sh… mud!
I called Knights Edge a few days later and they informed me that had just a few left in stock. I quickly ordered one and about 5 business days later, there was a long awaited (well, not really) package delivered to my door!
The box was without damage during transit and the contents were well protected with packing paper. The sword was contained within a smaller box and was inside a light blue, fleece like carry/travel bag. The picture shows the carry bag for the Skull Katana as I am unable to find the light blue one that came with the Reverse Blade.
I immediately unsheathed the sword from the simple scabbard and found that there was no oil on the blade but it was free of rust or corrosion. The blade was very light, and this being my first fully functional sword, I was surprised at the weight! I expected a high carbon steel sword to weigh more than it did. The sword handled well and was extremely responsive. Though I had no other sword to compare it to, I was extremely happy with the sword.
You’ll notice that I wisely refrain from calling this sword a katana. I realize there is NO historical counterpart and no known historical documents describing such a sword. This is obviously an anime inspired fantasy sword… but I still like it!
Sword Overview:
Blade Length: 27 ¼”
Blade Width: 1 ¼”
Blade Material: Hand forged high carbon steel
Hilt Length: 10 1/4”
Overall Length: 37 ½” (advertised as 38”)
Point of Balance: Exactly 3” from guard
Guard Width: 3 ½”
Pommel: 1”
Weight: 2lbs 10oz (I modified this when I got a better scale)
Design, Fit & Finish
The Blade
As with other Ritter Steel blades, it is hand forged out of high carbon steel with very subtle hammer markings and complete with the infamous grind marks on the steel.
The blade does feel extremely sturdy however and seems to be a very capable cutter. Obviously the cutting edge is opposite where you would normally find on a true katana. The edge is sharp, but far from razor sharp.
The point is sharp and seems capable of thrusting.
The Grip
At about 8 ¾”(not including pommel), the grip seems a bit short, but does allow ample room for swinging and maneuvering the blade. The grip is cloth braided over a silver fabric and complete with four dragon menuki, 2 on each side.
Though not a bad looking handle, its not very traditional looking, but then again this isn’t a traditional style sword. All in all, not bad.
The Pommel
The pommel is right at an inch long and is very simple in design. Made of hand cast steel and blackened to match the tsuba, the pommel is not made to be eye candy. It’s rather plain if not somewhat dull. The steel is textured in the same way as the Skull Katana’s furniture.
The Guard
The guard, or tsuba, is hand cast steel in a musashi style. Its textured just like the pommel and being the musashi style, is very simple. It seems to match the tsuba of Kenshin’s sword from the anime. The tsuba is thick and seems to offer good hand protection.
The Scabbard
The scabbard is a big disappointment for this sword. It is just a simple wooden scabbard with a thin, leather covering which appears to be glued on, not stitched.
This may be appropriate for a poor, peaceful, wandering samurai, but not much of a selling point for a sword company. The scabbard is adequate at best and seems to safely house the blade. Unfortunately it’s a tremendous eye sore.
Testing
Cutting
This round of testing was interesting. I figured I’d expose this sword to similar tests as I did the others and see how it holds up. I found a large section of the 2”X6” that I had split during the War Sword testing and decided to start with that. With little strength behind the blow, the sword easily sunk about 2” into the wood plank.
I was shocked to say the least. I exerted a bit more strength on the next chop and the sword cleaved about 5” into the plank. I figured it proved itself there.
Next I took out another damaged piece of peg board from my basement. This piece was about 3/8” thick, but was a little softer than the other board I used in other tests. The front of the board did have a hard finish to provide more strength to the board, so I figured this would be a decent target. I started my cuts using the dull edge; the way the sword was designed to be used. I only expected to cause cracks or breaks in the board. Much to my surprise, the dull edge cut into the board nicely. I did a couple more cuts using the dull edge and each time provided similar cuts. I then turned the blade around and used the sharp side. These cuts were even deeper and were somewhat impressive; but then again forward curving blades always do seem to cut nicely. After the first cut, I did some diagonal cutting and sent pieces of the board flying. The sword cut quite nicely, but using the sword backwards was very strange and seemed to throw off my form and mildly hinder my accuracy. Using the sword’s reverse edge seemed more suitable for chopping rather than for kata used in Japanese swordsmanship. Oh well, the sword wasn’t designed for use of the sharp side… no big loss.
(In the video I say the peg board is "softer but its a bit softer," I meant to say it was softer but a bit thicker. hehe oops)
Next I figured I’d try to cut some 1 gallon bottles of water. This is where the tests go south! As before, I used an old end table with an old, large, steel pot as a base for the jugs of water (I know, I’m currently in the process of building a better target base). This pot is used for watering my dogs. The first cut was right on. The sword easily cleaved the top section of the jug of water. Good so far. I then cleaved off another section of the jug cleanly. That’s when I got brave. I figured I’d try a side cut on a now small target. Now, I mentioned earlier that steel pot I was using for a base was old. I knew it was probably an antique, but there was rust on it and I didn’t know the story behind it. Turns out it was from my wife’s deceased father and apparently he had held some sentimental value to it, as did my wife. (Why were we using it outside to water the dogs then?!) Yeah, you probably see where this is going. Again, I didn’t know this at the time. Also keep in mind I’m no expert in swordsmanship. I know what you are all thinking; “But Chad, we’ve all seen the videos and the AMAZING cuts you produce and the EXTRAORDINARY form you demonstrate!” (obviously joking!) Haha, I know! I know! But I am barely a novice in swordsmanship and have had only a few instruction sessions. Top all that off with a forward curving “katana” (that you’re not really used to using) and you have one heck of a recipe for disaster! I know, I know! Well, I attempted to use a straight, side cut and it worked… sort of. It did make contact with the jug, but only a very small section at the bottom of the jug with the steel pot taking most of the blade’s impact! The pot was sent flying somewhere between 10 to 15’. My first instinct was inspection of the sword for damage. A full power swing like that HAD to do damage to the sword. The sword was whole, and everything seemed intact. I closely inspected the swords edge. There was only MINOR damage to the blade’s cutting edge (which was easily remedied with only a few strokes from my handheld knife sharpener) and all sword furniture still tight and secure.
It was then I thought, “Uh oh…!” I retrieved the pot and found a large gouge in the bottom section of it. The gouge was deep enough to cause a cut at the very bottom that went all the way through, completely rendering the pot unusable.
I was dead! But, like a true sword enthusiast, I was determined to finish this review before my wife took the sword in the divorce settlement! Needless To say I'm not going to post that embarrassing video!
I figured I’d done enough damage with the cut tests and the sword has proved very durable! I returned to my office where I quickly fixed the edge of the sword and then set up for the flex test.
Flex Test
As with the Skull Katana, the “sakabatō” blade was very stiff but did flex easier than did the Skull Katana.
The blade did seem capable of bending a bit more, but I had reached my comfort level with the flex. The sword is tough as nails!
Conclusion
In conclusion, I’m still alive and still married! My wife is a very understanding woman and with my promise to pound out the gouge and refinish it, she’ll use it as an outside flower pot. I’m a lucky guy!
Oh, about the sword… yeah right! (Uh hem) The sword has proved to be very durable and capable of some decent cutting. With only a few minutes of work on the edge, this sword can be made into a razor. Only real obstacle is getting used to swinging a katana backwards, which isn’t the easiest thing to master. All things considered, it’s not a bad bargain. Anyone looking for a functional (fantasy) anime sword won’t be disappointed with this one!
Historical Accuracy: 0/5 (I can’t even give this sword a 1)
Fit and Finish: 2/5 (and that’s being generous)
Handling: 3/5 (when using the cutting edge)
Structural Integrity: 4.5/5 (hey, it survived my torture tests didn’t it?!)
Value for Money: 3.5/5 (maybe more for someone wanting a functional sakabatō)
OVERALL: 3.25/5
Where to get:
Kult of Athena sells this sword for $167.95. I found only one other place that sold it for a smidgen cheaper ($167.49) but I hadn’t heard of the company before and I knew Kult of Athena is a reputable dealer.
Review by Chad Werner, Ellettsville, IN (USA)
Knights Edge Description:
“Another Ritter Steel first - a genuine, fully functional Reverse Blade Sword! They have created an authentic Japanese style reverse blade katana featuring the traditional hand braided diamond pattern cord wrap upon a shimmering silver fabric with four dragon menuki inset. The blackened steel tsuba and pommel are hand pounded. The sharp functional high carbon steel reverse blade is mounted with a traditional copper habaki which attests to its quality. The scabbard on this reverse blade sword is hand made from wood, and covered in rich black leather.
For those unfamiliar with the reverse blade sword, the sharp side is opposite where you would normally expect it, while the normal cutting side, is the wide unsharpened portion of the blade. The idea behind this is when striking your opponent as you would with a normal sword, the opponent would be stunned when hit by the reverse blade, not cut. As this reverse blade katana is a real sword, great care should be taken as hitting someone could cause serious injury, even death! This is a real sword not a toy!
The Ritter Steel high carbon steel reverse blade is hand pounded and forged over hot coals, using many of the original techniques passed down through the generations of ancient sword smiths. Each tsuba and end cap is individually hand cast in steel with a traditional solid copper habaki hand fitted to each 27" long, 1-5/16" wide steel blade. The overall length of the reverse blade sword is 38". The diameter of the tsuba is 3-1/2". The weight of the reverse blade sword is about 2-3/4 lbs, the sheath is about 3/4lbs.The workmanship put into each sword attests to each sword being an authentically functional original work of art!”
As with most people wanting this kind of sword, I am a huge anime fan! I enjoyed watching Samurai X and Rurouni Kenshin and I liked what Kenshin stood for and found the concept of his sakabatō (reverse-blade sword) intriguing. When I had a little extra spending money, I began researching the sword to see if anyone was making it. This must have been when the sword really started taking off because I found numerous companies selling the sword. Only problem was that most of these swords were made of stainless steel and I desired to own my first functional sword. The first functional one I came across was described as being made from folded high-carbon steel and was selling at almost a thousand dollars. Though it was a beautiful sword, this was WAY out of my budget. Then I came across Knights Edge for the first time. There I found Ritter Steel’s Reverse Blade “Katana.” It was priced well under $200 and was hand forged from high carbon steel! I was happy as a pig in sh… mud!
I called Knights Edge a few days later and they informed me that had just a few left in stock. I quickly ordered one and about 5 business days later, there was a long awaited (well, not really) package delivered to my door!
The box was without damage during transit and the contents were well protected with packing paper. The sword was contained within a smaller box and was inside a light blue, fleece like carry/travel bag. The picture shows the carry bag for the Skull Katana as I am unable to find the light blue one that came with the Reverse Blade.
I immediately unsheathed the sword from the simple scabbard and found that there was no oil on the blade but it was free of rust or corrosion. The blade was very light, and this being my first fully functional sword, I was surprised at the weight! I expected a high carbon steel sword to weigh more than it did. The sword handled well and was extremely responsive. Though I had no other sword to compare it to, I was extremely happy with the sword.
You’ll notice that I wisely refrain from calling this sword a katana. I realize there is NO historical counterpart and no known historical documents describing such a sword. This is obviously an anime inspired fantasy sword… but I still like it!
Sword Overview:
Blade Length: 27 ¼”
Blade Width: 1 ¼”
Blade Material: Hand forged high carbon steel
Hilt Length: 10 1/4”
Overall Length: 37 ½” (advertised as 38”)
Point of Balance: Exactly 3” from guard
Guard Width: 3 ½”
Pommel: 1”
Weight: 2lbs 10oz (I modified this when I got a better scale)
Design, Fit & Finish
The Blade
As with other Ritter Steel blades, it is hand forged out of high carbon steel with very subtle hammer markings and complete with the infamous grind marks on the steel.
The blade does feel extremely sturdy however and seems to be a very capable cutter. Obviously the cutting edge is opposite where you would normally find on a true katana. The edge is sharp, but far from razor sharp.
The point is sharp and seems capable of thrusting.
The Grip
At about 8 ¾”(not including pommel), the grip seems a bit short, but does allow ample room for swinging and maneuvering the blade. The grip is cloth braided over a silver fabric and complete with four dragon menuki, 2 on each side.
Though not a bad looking handle, its not very traditional looking, but then again this isn’t a traditional style sword. All in all, not bad.
The Pommel
The pommel is right at an inch long and is very simple in design. Made of hand cast steel and blackened to match the tsuba, the pommel is not made to be eye candy. It’s rather plain if not somewhat dull. The steel is textured in the same way as the Skull Katana’s furniture.
The Guard
The guard, or tsuba, is hand cast steel in a musashi style. Its textured just like the pommel and being the musashi style, is very simple. It seems to match the tsuba of Kenshin’s sword from the anime. The tsuba is thick and seems to offer good hand protection.
The Scabbard
The scabbard is a big disappointment for this sword. It is just a simple wooden scabbard with a thin, leather covering which appears to be glued on, not stitched.
This may be appropriate for a poor, peaceful, wandering samurai, but not much of a selling point for a sword company. The scabbard is adequate at best and seems to safely house the blade. Unfortunately it’s a tremendous eye sore.
Testing
Cutting
This round of testing was interesting. I figured I’d expose this sword to similar tests as I did the others and see how it holds up. I found a large section of the 2”X6” that I had split during the War Sword testing and decided to start with that. With little strength behind the blow, the sword easily sunk about 2” into the wood plank.
I was shocked to say the least. I exerted a bit more strength on the next chop and the sword cleaved about 5” into the plank. I figured it proved itself there.
Next I took out another damaged piece of peg board from my basement. This piece was about 3/8” thick, but was a little softer than the other board I used in other tests. The front of the board did have a hard finish to provide more strength to the board, so I figured this would be a decent target. I started my cuts using the dull edge; the way the sword was designed to be used. I only expected to cause cracks or breaks in the board. Much to my surprise, the dull edge cut into the board nicely. I did a couple more cuts using the dull edge and each time provided similar cuts. I then turned the blade around and used the sharp side. These cuts were even deeper and were somewhat impressive; but then again forward curving blades always do seem to cut nicely. After the first cut, I did some diagonal cutting and sent pieces of the board flying. The sword cut quite nicely, but using the sword backwards was very strange and seemed to throw off my form and mildly hinder my accuracy. Using the sword’s reverse edge seemed more suitable for chopping rather than for kata used in Japanese swordsmanship. Oh well, the sword wasn’t designed for use of the sharp side… no big loss.
(In the video I say the peg board is "softer but its a bit softer," I meant to say it was softer but a bit thicker. hehe oops)
Next I figured I’d try to cut some 1 gallon bottles of water. This is where the tests go south! As before, I used an old end table with an old, large, steel pot as a base for the jugs of water (I know, I’m currently in the process of building a better target base). This pot is used for watering my dogs. The first cut was right on. The sword easily cleaved the top section of the jug of water. Good so far. I then cleaved off another section of the jug cleanly. That’s when I got brave. I figured I’d try a side cut on a now small target. Now, I mentioned earlier that steel pot I was using for a base was old. I knew it was probably an antique, but there was rust on it and I didn’t know the story behind it. Turns out it was from my wife’s deceased father and apparently he had held some sentimental value to it, as did my wife. (Why were we using it outside to water the dogs then?!) Yeah, you probably see where this is going. Again, I didn’t know this at the time. Also keep in mind I’m no expert in swordsmanship. I know what you are all thinking; “But Chad, we’ve all seen the videos and the AMAZING cuts you produce and the EXTRAORDINARY form you demonstrate!” (obviously joking!) Haha, I know! I know! But I am barely a novice in swordsmanship and have had only a few instruction sessions. Top all that off with a forward curving “katana” (that you’re not really used to using) and you have one heck of a recipe for disaster! I know, I know! Well, I attempted to use a straight, side cut and it worked… sort of. It did make contact with the jug, but only a very small section at the bottom of the jug with the steel pot taking most of the blade’s impact! The pot was sent flying somewhere between 10 to 15’. My first instinct was inspection of the sword for damage. A full power swing like that HAD to do damage to the sword. The sword was whole, and everything seemed intact. I closely inspected the swords edge. There was only MINOR damage to the blade’s cutting edge (which was easily remedied with only a few strokes from my handheld knife sharpener) and all sword furniture still tight and secure.
It was then I thought, “Uh oh…!” I retrieved the pot and found a large gouge in the bottom section of it. The gouge was deep enough to cause a cut at the very bottom that went all the way through, completely rendering the pot unusable.
I was dead! But, like a true sword enthusiast, I was determined to finish this review before my wife took the sword in the divorce settlement! Needless To say I'm not going to post that embarrassing video!
I figured I’d done enough damage with the cut tests and the sword has proved very durable! I returned to my office where I quickly fixed the edge of the sword and then set up for the flex test.
Flex Test
As with the Skull Katana, the “sakabatō” blade was very stiff but did flex easier than did the Skull Katana.
The blade did seem capable of bending a bit more, but I had reached my comfort level with the flex. The sword is tough as nails!
Conclusion
In conclusion, I’m still alive and still married! My wife is a very understanding woman and with my promise to pound out the gouge and refinish it, she’ll use it as an outside flower pot. I’m a lucky guy!
Oh, about the sword… yeah right! (Uh hem) The sword has proved to be very durable and capable of some decent cutting. With only a few minutes of work on the edge, this sword can be made into a razor. Only real obstacle is getting used to swinging a katana backwards, which isn’t the easiest thing to master. All things considered, it’s not a bad bargain. Anyone looking for a functional (fantasy) anime sword won’t be disappointed with this one!
Historical Accuracy: 0/5 (I can’t even give this sword a 1)
Fit and Finish: 2/5 (and that’s being generous)
Handling: 3/5 (when using the cutting edge)
Structural Integrity: 4.5/5 (hey, it survived my torture tests didn’t it?!)
Value for Money: 3.5/5 (maybe more for someone wanting a functional sakabatō)
OVERALL: 3.25/5
Where to get:
Kult of Athena sells this sword for $167.95. I found only one other place that sold it for a smidgen cheaper ($167.49) but I hadn’t heard of the company before and I knew Kult of Athena is a reputable dealer.