circumstances
Member
All the same we take our chances.. laughed at by time..tricked by circumstances
Posts: 94
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Post by circumstances on Mar 3, 2024 0:38:54 GMT
I'm making this blade for my Son's wife as a gift for her B day. It used to be a VERY old wood rasp that was in my grandfathers shop in a junk box when he passed. It had a logo on the tang and some letters that were all pretty hard to discern so I didn't sweat it much. Kinda wish I had but no biggy. I've been threatening to make a knife out of it since 1992 so I reckon it was time. It forged beautifully and hardened back up great. The polish has a couple blemishes from teeth I couldn't quite get to cooperate but nothing that can't be managed. It's finishing nice. The handle and guard are in progress but I got stopped on the project for about a week whilst get some maintenance and repair done in the shop. I'm curious as to what exactly the steep is in this thing. All I know for certain is the rasp was around 1930 something in when it was made so I'm clueless as to what it might be. Though I believe it was a high quality tool. It belonged to my great gramps and came to my gramps after he passed and my gramps broke the end off so it went in that box. I have the steels history in it's life as a rasp. I'd appreciate any insight towards finding out at least some possibilities as to what specific sort of steel it might be. It sure did work nice but in a note to self from here on out if I use a file or rasp I'm gonna be prepared to fold it at least once. Scrubbing the teeth took a little effort even after forging and I wound up with a thinner blade than I was looking for. It's fine but thinner than I might prefer. It sure do cut nice and it's held up after a few tests. haha I haven't done a Jay Neilson to it and highly doubt I will but I'm still satisfied with how it's performing. The thinner blade does have some advantages. Anyway if somebody with a bit more time in grade has any insights to offer me on what the thing might be made from it would make my day. Types of steel that I'm using interest me. Then I'll know as time progresses what works for me best and what I'd rather avoid. This is turning into a wicked little blade. I'm not going to be using files or rasps for a while as I lucked into a sizable stash of T10 and W1 and even some D2 from the machinery outfit here in town. Parts they took off machines and scrapped. The yard boss cut me a deal for their scrap quality steels they come up with. I can come raiding anytime. There's a lot of known quality steels so I sure can't argue. Beats having to buy virgin.
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Post by mrstabby on Mar 3, 2024 7:32:57 GMT
Wood rasps aren't good quality steel for the most part, but older ones could be. You can watch this video if you're interested.
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Post by izzy on Mar 3, 2024 8:08:13 GMT
Looks like you did an Excellent Job. If it holds an edge then it was good steel, most likely virgin steel back then. I would not worry about thickness, 3-4mm ( 1/8" or more) will do fine out in the woods if it's done right.
"Your file is probably made from a plain, high carbon, steel - something in the range of 90 to over 100 points of carbon. A point of carbon is 1/100th of 1 percent, so steel with 90 points of carbon has 0.90 percent carbon, and a steel with 122 points of carbon would have 1.22 percent. The difference that this makes between other steels considered spring steels is that it will be somewhat easier to anneal, i.e. not require a long, controlled ramp down from hardening temperature - some higher alloy steels cannot cool more than 20 degrees per hour while annealling. You will be able to anneal your file with your forge instead of needing a digitaly controlled furnace that you can program to cool at a set rate. Just build a fire, get it up to temperature, add more fuel, turn off the air, throw some ashes on top, and wait until the next day. You will get even better results if you do several files at the same time because the larger mass will cool more slowly."
Also:
"OLD files are usually 1095, W-1, or W-2, or since these are german, the euro equivalent. Some new files are case-hardened 4140."
On blade thickness:
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circumstances
Member
All the same we take our chances.. laughed at by time..tricked by circumstances
Posts: 94
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Post by circumstances on Mar 4, 2024 21:07:11 GMT
Thanks izzy and tabby. I think I got a grip now on where I'm at with this piece. Still operating on a couple assumtions and teories but that's what repurposing is all about. haha This will as I said be the last file or even totally unknown material I use in a blade for a while. I wanted to use this old file for my DOLs knife cuz it's what I call a "legacy" material. The handle will be made from silver maple (I call it Bonewood) from a tree my Dad and I planted when I was 8. The file of course came down to me from my Grampa...just little spiritual touches.
My son's knife will have a handle from that tree as well but his steel I scrounged out of a ranch boneyard eons ago. It's out of an old leaf spring from a 1950s vintage Chevy pickup that was stuck out there with all the other countless treasures a guy like me could see. Ranch and farm boneyards are the best places to go searching. I've made a knife out of that stuff already and the only reason it's not still on my belt is I was offered what I thought a princely sum for it.
I'll get a pic of it up later. It's a bush/camp knife not a hunter but using my unscientific performance methods it surely held up. Anyway thanks for your informative input and taking an interest in my questions. I do appreciate it.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Mar 10, 2024 20:50:29 GMT
Thanks izzy and tabby. I think I got a grip now on where I'm at with this piece. Still operating on a couple assumtions and teories but that's what repurposing is all about. haha This will as I said be the last file or even totally unknown material I use in a blade for a while. I wanted to use this old file for my DOLs knife cuz it's what I call a "legacy" material. The handle will be made from silver maple (I call it Bonewood) from a tree my Dad and I planted when I was 8. The file of course came down to me from my Grampa...just little spiritual touches. My son's knife will have a handle from that tree as well but his steel I scrounged out of a ranch boneyard eons ago. It's out of an old leaf spring from a 1950s vintage Chevy pickup that was stuck out there with all the other countless treasures a guy like me could see. Ranch and farm boneyards are the best places to go searching. I've made a knife out of that stuff already and the only reason it's not still on my belt is I was offered what I thought a princely sum for it. I'll get a pic of it up later. It's a bush/camp knife not a hunter but using my unscientific performance methods it surely held up. Anyway thanks for your informative input and taking an interest in my questions. I do appreciate it. And all this time I thought it was mr stabby. Now I find out it’s mrs tabby. Mind blown! 😏
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Post by mrstabby on Mar 11, 2024 7:08:14 GMT
Noo, I got found out...
I always copy paste names because I always write them wrong....
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circumstances
Member
All the same we take our chances.. laughed at by time..tricked by circumstances
Posts: 94
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Post by circumstances on Apr 23, 2024 20:02:14 GMT
Looks like you did an Excellent Job. If it holds an edge then it was good steel, most likely virgin steel back then. I would not worry about thickness, 3-4mm ( 1/8" or more) will do fine out in the woods if it's done right.
"Your file is probably made from a plain, high carbon, steel - something in the range of 90 to over 100 points of carbon. A point of carbon is 1/100th of 1 percent, so steel with 90 points of carbon has 0.90 percent carbon, and a steel with 122 points of carbon would have 1.22 percent. The difference that this makes between other steels considered spring steels is that it will be somewhat easier to anneal, i.e. not require a long, controlled ramp down from hardening temperature - some higher alloy steels cannot cool more than 20 degrees per hour while annealling. You will be able to anneal your file with your forge instead of needing a digitaly controlled furnace that you can program to cool at a set rate. Just build a fire, get it up to temperature, add more fuel, turn off the air, throw some ashes on top, and wait until the next day. You will get even better results if you do several files at the same time because the larger mass will cool more slowly."
Also:
"OLD files are usually 1095, W-1, or W-2, or since these are german, the euro equivalent. Some new files are case-hardened 4140."
On blade thickness:
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circumstances
Member
All the same we take our chances.. laughed at by time..tricked by circumstances
Posts: 94
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Post by circumstances on Apr 23, 2024 20:06:27 GMT
Looks like you did an Excellent Job. If it holds an edge then it was good steel, most likely virgin steel back then. I would not worry about thickness, 3-4mm ( 1/8" or more) will do fine out in the woods if it's done right.
"Your file is probably made from a plain, high carbon, steel - something in the range of 90 to over 100 points of carbon. A point of carbon is 1/100th of 1 percent, so steel with 90 points of carbon has 0.90 percent carbon, and a steel with 122 points of carbon would have 1.22 percent. The difference that this makes between other steels considered spring steels is that it will be somewhat easier to anneal, i.e. not require a long, controlled ramp down from hardening temperature - some higher alloy steels cannot cool more than 20 degrees per hour while annealling. You will be able to anneal your file with your forge instead of needing a digitaly controlled furnace that you can program to cool at a set rate. Just build a fire, get it up to temperature, add more fuel, turn off the air, throw some ashes on top, and wait until the next day. You will get even better results if you do several files at the same time because the larger mass will cool more slowly."
Also:
"OLD files are usually 1095, W-1, or W-2, or since these are german, the euro equivalent. Some new files are case-hardened 4140."
It took and held an edge just fine. I'll resize and put a pic of it up when I have more time. I've got projects abounding. There's a medieval combat event here thisweekend too. I really want to get to that. I've got a war spear in the forge and an ax waiting with it. Hoping maybe I can put some of my best work on display and see where it takes me. I LOVE forging steel.
On blade thickness:
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Ouroboros
Member
Imperial, Mysterious In Amorous Array
Posts: 571
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Post by Ouroboros on Apr 24, 2024 22:56:50 GMT
The above vid has some good info. My grandfather and I would use old files for tools around the farm. He had a feel for steel. Noo, I got found out... I always copy paste names because I always write them wrong....
I knew u were a cat.
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Post by izzy on Apr 30, 2024 21:26:25 GMT
Looks like you did an Excellent Job. If it holds an edge then it was good steel, most likely virgin steel back then. I would not worry about thickness, 3-4mm ( 1/8" or more) will do fine out in the woods if it's done right.
"Your file is probably made from a plain, high carbon, steel - something in the range of 90 to over 100 points of carbon. A point of carbon is 1/100th of 1 percent, so steel with 90 points of carbon has 0.90 percent carbon, and a steel with 122 points of carbon would have 1.22 percent. The difference that this makes between other steels considered spring steels is that it will be somewhat easier to anneal, i.e. not require a long, controlled ramp down from hardening temperature - some higher alloy steels cannot cool more than 20 degrees per hour while annealling. You will be able to anneal your file with your forge instead of needing a digitaly controlled furnace that you can program to cool at a set rate. Just build a fire, get it up to temperature, add more fuel, turn off the air, throw some ashes on top, and wait until the next day. You will get even better results if you do several files at the same time because the larger mass will cool more slowly."
Also:
"OLD files are usually 1095, W-1, or W-2, or since these are german, the euro equivalent. Some new files are case-hardened 4140."
It took and held an edge just fine. I'll resize and put a pic of it up when I have more time. I've got projects abounding. There's a medieval combat event here thisweekend too. I really want to get to that. I've got a war spear in the forge and an ax waiting with it. Hoping maybe I can put some of my best work on display and see where it takes me. I LOVE forging steel.
On blade thickness:
Not as many making Spears and pole arms as swords and knives,...I just got 2 Windlass Lugged Viking spears myself...look forward to seeing what you made.
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