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Post by kamagatsu on Aug 14, 2022 12:00:09 GMT
Hi all, I’ve always used oil on blades that are not in constant use so am I correct in thinking Renaissance wax negates the need for oil by coating the blade with a coat of wax? Or is renaissance wax just for furnishings ect ?
does wax leave a residue, sticky at all ?
thanks.
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Post by RickDastardly on Aug 14, 2022 12:38:00 GMT
Ren wax (in my experience in a damp part of the U.K., climates vary) negates the need for oiling. You certainly don't do oil and ren wax.
Just make sure the blade is really clean and dry before applying the ren wax because otherwise it can trap a bit of dirt/moisture underneath... then rust spot!
I warm the blades over a convector heater or radiator on medium. Not hot enough to start to soften resin or damage leather, just warm enough to make sure it's dry. The warmth also helps the ren wax apply smoothly. Use a microfibre cloth and make sure to rub it in well everywhere. Ren wax is suitable for most handle fittings too. Museums use it on all sorts of things. It dries dry, not tacky, once cooled off and left for a few hours. If it remains tacky, you used too much.
I wouldn't bother with ren wax on stuff that's in use occasionally, it's too much bother to keep reapplying it. For most of my stuff though which doesn't see much action other than fondling, it's ideal. The ren wax easily copes with fondling, btw.
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Post by kamagatsu on Aug 15, 2022 9:49:16 GMT
Ren wax (in my experience in a damp part of the U.K., climates vary) negates the need for oiling. You certainly don't do oil and ren wax.
Just make sure the blade is really clean and dry before applying the ren wax because otherwise it can trap a bit of dirt/moisture underneath... then rust spot!
I warm the blades over a convector heater or radiator on medium. Not hot enough to start to soften resin or damage leather, just warm enough to make sure it's dry. The warmth also helps the ren wax apply smoothly. Use a microfibre cloth and make sure to rub it in well everywhere. Ren wax is suitable for most handle fittings too. Museums use it on all sorts of things. It dries dry, not tacky, once cooled off and left for a few hours. If it remains tacky, you used too much.
I wouldn't bother with ren wax on stuff that's in use occasionally, it's too much bother to keep reapplying it. For most of my stuff though which doesn't see much action other than fondling, it's ideal. The ren wax easily copes with fondling, btw.
thanks for the info, it’s what i expected. I’ll continue using choji oil on my katana but I have a few more swords that don’t get used so may use some REN wax on those. thanks again for the useful info. Lee
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Aug 15, 2022 10:09:48 GMT
If you can't decide use petrol jelly, it's a bit of both.
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Post by redkmfdm on Sept 10, 2022 4:53:15 GMT
I use Frog Lube in paste form, It'll NEVER evaporate if you store it for YEARS. I use it on my Cheness Oniyuri but a small downside the Saya absorbed the paste and the koiguchi is a little green and kinda looks like mold.
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