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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2009 11:20:25 GMT
I know that a blade can be completely re-etched, but I was basically wondering if it's necessary to completely repolish a damascus blade when only certain parts require to be re-etched (we could take as an example the edges of the blade).
I've got a feeling that it can't, as you will probably see some kind of demarcation line between the initial etching and the new etching, but I'm no expert, and if it can be done, I want to know. The reason I ask this is because the whole process of repolishing and removing all the past etching removes a lot of metal from a blade, and if it can be avoided then it should be.
Thanks,
Federico
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Post by Dan Davis on Nov 14, 2009 12:23:11 GMT
This method is for pattern-welded blades, not shinken, nihonto, etc. You need: - water
- white vinegar
- household ammonia (pure, not scented or colored)
- dishwashing soap
- household scouring powder
- cotton balls
- a pan or two
- a heat source
- sword oil
Mix the scouring powder and dishwashing soap until forms a thick paste. Put the vinegar in a pan and heat it until it is ALMOST hot. Boil water, then set it aside to cool a bit. Take a cotton ball, soak it in warm vinegar, and wipe it down the blade in slow, even strokes. Repeat on both sides and both edges until the entire blade turns grey. Change cotton balls when they get dirty. Take another CLEAN cotton ball and wipe down the blade with ammonia. Be generous, you are neutralizing the acid from the vinegar. Apply the scouring powder paste and rub in with your fingers. Keep rubbing until all of the grey oxides are gone and you can see the pattern of the laminate again. Get rid of ALL the oxides; this is where most people fail (lack of patience). Rinse the blade in the HOT water and dry immediately. When the blade is dry, re-oil it. This should perk up your pattern, you can repeat as many times as you want. If you just don't get the results you desire, then go with the complete repolish.
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