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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2009 1:18:10 GMT
Friends, Romans, Bloggers, lend me your sympathetic ears.
Over Christmas I bought a CAS Hanwei Tinker two hander. recently I decided to put a decent edge on it, so after reading up on this forum, I put on some gloves, grabbed a sharpmate? edgepro? (handle with a "V" of two bits of carbide) and went to town.
well, partway through the process I noticed in one spot, I had removed a bit more steel than on the rest of the edge. I figured My lousy technique was to blame so I clamped the sharpener down to my workbench and stripped down the sword to lighten it up and carefully continued. well it got worse.
on both edges, just before the end of the blood groove, I can't explain it. I'll post pictures in a day or two, but the whole point is, by sharpening the thing, I can't return it but how else would I find out it has a faulty heat treat with a soft spot? I will contact the place I bought it from and see what happens, wish me luck!
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Marc Ridgeway
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Post by Marc Ridgeway on Mar 11, 2009 1:28:30 GMT
Friends, Romans, Bloggers, lend me your sympathetic ears. Over Christmas I bought a CAS Hanwei Tinker two hander. recently I decided to put a decent edge on it, so after reading up on this forum, I put on some gloves, grabbed a sharpmate? edgepro? (handle with a "V" of two bits of carbide) and went to town. well, partway through the process I noticed in one spot, I had removed a bit more steel than on the rest of the edge. I figured My lousy technique was to blame so I clamped the sharpener down to my workbench and stripped down the sword to lighten it up and carefully continued. well it got worse. on both edges, just before the end of the blood groove, I can't explain it. I'll post pictures in a day or two, but the whole point is, by sharpening the thing, I can't return it but how else would I find out it has a faulty heat treat with a soft spot? I will contact the place I bought it from and see what happens, wish me luck! I've done that with an accusharp to another sword ... kind of dips in a bit a the same spot on both edges... I doubt its the sword...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2009 1:30:26 GMT
Had the same problem with an old Windlass qama way back when. Contact Tinker.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2009 1:30:44 GMT
Sounds like you are holding your temper better than your blade. Sorry to hear that about your Hanwei, they have a good reputation and it sure won't do any harm to contact them and find out. Best of luck to you and please let us know how it works out. I have several Hanwei's myself and plan on getting some more so I'll be watching this thread with personal interest.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Mar 11, 2009 3:50:49 GMT
that's a real bummer man. I've never used one of those devices on my swords but I'm still of the opinion they are not the right tool for the job. maybe not so severe a problem as my comment under my avatar but still no good; at least for swords. please keep us informed of what happens, I'd like to hear.
best of luck to you.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Mar 11, 2009 11:32:50 GMT
Yup Tech. If you'd been around a bit longer through more of the conversations here you'd have seen myself and others begging people never to use accusharps on swords. Maybe we should petition Paul about his suggestions to use them on his site. I don't know how he had such great success with them, but I can't get them to work well.
Tom K has had that signature under his avatar for ages, and any chance I get I lecture on the joys of beltsanders and drawfiling.
Sorry for your loss, but it will be fixable, given that you've stopped when the mess becomes apparent. I doubt it is the heat treat. I tried an accusharp after reading about them here. From all my attempts they have butchered the edge, really messed them up. They can make some sharp bits, but geterally it takes chunks out and is really uneven.
Beltsanders and drawfiling....
(Actually if you want to know what I said recently about putting an edge on: /index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=8960 )
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Post by Jeff K. ( Jak) on Mar 11, 2009 19:30:56 GMT
Yup, I always use a metal file and finish up with a 2 sided oiled whetstone. A good file can have your sword wicked sharp in half an hour or so. I just be sure to use the same amount of file strokes on each side of the blade to keep its geometry. The stone takes any tiny burrs and clinging shavings off to give you a clean sharp edge.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2009 20:57:28 GMT
I suppose when one views from a mechanical point of view how a grindstone vs an accusharp grinds an edge, the stone makes more sense, an accusharp is just kinda pincing the metal in between the carbide pieces and scraping along (hence the stripping metal removal fashion) like so _________ <- <- <- ....... where the stone grinds back and forth, evenly, more "sanding" the metal back rather then stripping it back, and more "naturally" the direction of the blades cutting path like so \ <- <- <- A stone seems more "natural", time honoured and overall mechanically, metalurgically, whatever your like sensible ....... Like we are finding out so much about the way our ancestors made and maintained these blades seems kinda "right" with stone and oil .......... and muscle gggggrrrrr
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Post by shadowhowler on Mar 11, 2009 20:59:19 GMT
Yup, I always use a metal file and finish up with a 2 sided oiled whetstone. A good file can have your sword wicked sharp in half an hour or so. I just be sure to use the same amount of file strokes on each side of the blade to keep its geometry. The stone takes any tiny burrs and clinging shavings off to give you a clean sharp edge. Hey Jak... what kinda file do you use? I've been using an 8' Nikleson mill file, and it's been pure HELL and has taken WAY longer then a half hour... and still does not have a good edge.
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Avery
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Post by Avery on Mar 11, 2009 23:55:48 GMT
Yup, I always use a metal file and finish up with a 2 sided oiled whetstone. A good file can have your sword wicked sharp in half an hour or so. I just be sure to use the same amount of file strokes on each side of the blade to keep its geometry. The stone takes any tiny burrs and clinging shavings off to give you a clean sharp edge. Hey Jak... what kinda file do you use? I've been using an 8' Nikleson mill file, and it's been pure HELL and has taken WAY longer then a half hour... and still does not have a good edge. Don't know about Jak, but I use a #2 bastard file(single cut), then finish with sanding blocks or sandpaper. Takes me between an hour 1/2 - 2 hrs. As for the O.P. , I would say it isn't the heat treat. I've heard others say the same thing when attempting to use an accusharp or some such thing.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2009 23:58:29 GMT
With an accusharp it'll get snagged on anything and dig out more steel than you want removed, it's not something I would use to actually put an edge on anything.
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Post by ShooterMike on Mar 12, 2009 0:28:14 GMT
Hey Jak... what kinda file do you use? I've been using an 8' Nikleson mill file, and it's been pure HELL and has taken WAY longer then a half hour... and still does not have a good edge. Don't know about Jak, but I use a #2 bastard file(single cut), then finish with sanding blocks or sandpaper. Takes me between an hour 1/2 - 2 hrs. As for the O.P. , I would say it isn't the heat treat. I've heard others say the same thing when attempting to use an accusharp or some such thing. This is exactly how I sharpen my swords too. And I would add... clamp the blade to a work table with the edge accessible to the file and sanding block. It doesn't need to stick out away from the table. But it needs to just clear the edge. This makes the blade immobile so the only thing moving is your hands and the file. I use small hard rubber pads on the blade and two welder's ViseGrip C-clamps to secure the blade to the work table. At least that's what works for me...
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Avery
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Post by Avery on Mar 12, 2009 0:48:45 GMT
Don't know about Jak, but I use a #2 bastard file(single cut), then finish with sanding blocks or sandpaper. Takes me between an hour 1/2 - 2 hrs. As for the O.P. , I would say it isn't the heat treat. I've heard others say the same thing when attempting to use an accusharp or some such thing. This is exactly how I sharpen my swords too. And I would add... clamp the blade to a work table with the edge accessible to the file and sanding block. It doesn't need to stick out away from the table. But it needs to just clear the edge. This makes the blade immobile so the only thing moving is your hands and the file. I use small hard rubber pads on the blade and two welder's ViseGrip C-clamps to secure the blade to the work table. At least that's what works for me... Man, are we long lost brothers, Mike? I used the vice grips 'till I made a jig to slide the blade in. Its easier for me to turn a few wing nuts and slide it a bit than unclamp and reclamp the grips.
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Post by ShooterMike on Mar 12, 2009 0:52:45 GMT
Man, are we long lost brothers, Mike? I used the vice grips 'till I made a jig to slide the blade in. Its easier for me to turn a few wing nuts and slide it a bit than unclamp and reclamp the grips. Hmmm.... could be. Were you raised by sword-wielding cowboy wolves too? ;D
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Avery
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Post by Avery on Mar 12, 2009 1:05:21 GMT
Man, are we long lost brothers, Mike? I used the vice grips 'till I made a jig to slide the blade in. Its easier for me to turn a few wing nuts and slide it a bit than unclamp and reclamp the grips. Hmmm.... could be. Were you raised by sword-wielding cowboy wolves too? ;D .......in the middle of the Arizona desert!
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Post by shadowhowler on Mar 12, 2009 4:14:51 GMT
Don't know about Jak, but I use a #2 bastard file(single cut) Where would one find such a file...?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2009 4:35:03 GMT
Any hardware store, I got a #6 at Big R which is sort of a farm care store I guess.
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Post by shadowhowler on Mar 12, 2009 4:39:15 GMT
Hm. I got mine at home depot, and they had a woefully small selection of files...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2009 4:47:42 GMT
So did big R, very small selection, but a #4 file is pretty rough, after I got my #6 I went and hunted one down in my garage and #6 works great for putting a clean bevel on something.
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Post by shadowhowler on Mar 12, 2009 5:18:26 GMT
I'm actually looking for something pretty rough that will take a lot of metal off easily... I have 4 grits of diamond hone stone and two arkanasas stones to refine the edge... but I need a file that will help get rid of really bad secondary bevels quickler then what I got.
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