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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2009 22:30:37 GMT
So, I know many people have covered how to sharpen a sword relatively easily (just grab some stones and go at it), but I was wondering about a sword that did not originally start sharp. I have a Hanwei Qi Jian, which is a wonderful sword, but I was hoping to sharpen it up a bit, but am concerned about doing it myself, since it has no edge at the moment. Has anyone had experience with this? I would be willing to send it to a sharpening service, but I don't know of any available (without going to a professional polisher), does anyone know?
Thanks,
Drew
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2009 23:14:42 GMT
Use a file to get the edge sharp, then sand paper to get it looking pretty.
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Post by shadowhowler on Feb 25, 2009 3:35:48 GMT
I've been working on a CAS/Hanwei Celtic sword... had a craptastic edge... I'm getting it sharp so I can finish it's reveiw. I have a 8 inch nicklson file, a corse stone with grit between 150-300... and a medium stone with grit between 300-550. I've gone at it with the file and corse stone for a bit over 3 hours now... and I just about have one half sharp. This doing things by hand sure does take some time.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2009 5:36:54 GMT
I spent over 2 hours with a strop the other night and now my Musashi katana...that's right the cheapest one I own...shaves the hair off my arm ;D
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2009 19:58:01 GMT
I'm thinking about getting a strope...where can I get one and what kind of strope would suffice for a katana? I hear jewlers rouge works well with it.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Feb 26, 2009 14:44:25 GMT
as I understand it a strop can be any plain strip of leather, even an old cowboy belt will work (just try not to use the one with all the tool-cut stars on it). we are talking plain-old tanned leather, no paint or funny treatments here, just leather. check out the sharpening and polishing sticky thread page two for a video on stropping.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Feb 27, 2009 1:30:05 GMT
A belt sander may be a good idea for faster stock removal. You should be able to make several passes at it with 40 grit before it gets hot to feel and you need to cool it. 40 should remove the stock pretty quick. Then you can tidy it up moving up the grits once it's close to where you want. If you can take it to a 0.5mm edge with the beltsander you should finish it off drawfiling, to avoid heat.Once sharp you tidy up with hand sanding.
Some notes. Beltsanding: *If it's a hand held beltsander put the handle in a vice, upside down. Thats all I use. I pass the blade along the roller. *Always make long swift passes on the belt sander being sure not to pause at the start or end or it will put a pothole in it. *Using a bare hand on the back of the blade to support/ guide it willl help you feel the heat build up and you can cool it before it gets hot. * Be very careful near the point as that can get too hot very fast. Best leave that for filing.
Drawfiling: *Drawfiling means you hold the file across the edge (at 90deg) and draw it straight back and forward. Dont saw at it. *Use a millfile, 2nd cut. *Bang out the filings very frequently. *If it's well HT'd it'll start to gloss up and skate over the edge without biting. To get it to bite again key it up briefly with 150 grit sandpaper.
Hand sanding: *USE GLOVES (KEVLAR) - In fact just always wear these. Chuck on a respirator while you're at it. *Use a block. *150 grit eats up the filing scratches pretty well. Then work up to the required finish.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2009 22:58:43 GMT
I was looking on ebay for some Jewlers Rouge and there are quite a few choices...which one works the best? There's brown...red...yellow......white...etc. I am making my own strope.
EDIT: I found the answer I need.
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