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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 9:55:31 GMT
Hi, With the special action between DSA, SBG and WWF, I bought their 13th C. Medieval Sword www.darksword-armory.com/1315.htmlSince I'm into 13th century re-enactment, this will fit neatly, I think. Does someone owns this sword also? Some handling experiences with it? Thanks in advance corvuscorax
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 16:07:47 GMT
Well...do you care about historical accuracy much? That blade looks to be a type XVIII...which is not something you would have seen in the 1200s. The pommel and guard is UBER bulky so is very atypical of historic swords. Actually so is the handle...that whole hilt assembly is just to big for that sword.
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SlayerofDarkness
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Feb 16, 2009 16:37:39 GMT
Cold Napalm, my friend, PLEASE don't start this again... Historical accuracy is great, but there's really no need to bash DSA over it. Now, I'm not trying to start a debate, just putting my $0.02 out there, lol. -Slayer
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Post by hotspur on Feb 16, 2009 16:44:31 GMT
Well...do you care about historical accuracy much? That blade looks to be a type XVIII...which is not something you would have seen in the 1200s. The pommel and guard is UBER bulky so is very atypical of historic swords. Actually so is the handle...that whole hilt assembly is just to big for that sword. Actually, it looks a lot more like a XIV blade, which would be quite apt for the period. I'm not looking to justify either the producer or potential customers but Oakeshott typologies are well published. If you can't or have not afford or borrow the books then maybe take a look at the Oakeshott typology articles series via myArmoury. That information is optional as well. Cheers Hotspur; I'm not sure of youthful exhuberance either but it suits some
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 17:11:04 GMT
Well this is for re-enactment so it could be important...depending on what it's gonna be used for. If you plan on using the sword to put on a show, then the finer details don't matter as much and this sword is fine for that(in fact DSA comes to the top of this list for this purpose)...but if it's part of a costume piece, then the OP should know that there are some issues with it that aspect of this sword. And it's not just DSA, many of the swords in our price range are not very accurate
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 17:20:36 GMT
The blade has quite long fuller, the blade doesn't taper too much, I would say it could maybe even pass as a XII, so if it's not historically correct, it is at least plausible if you don't have very high standards.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 19:50:30 GMT
Thanks for the replies, guys.
The sword will be used on shows, but main purpose is as a part of a historical costume, end 13th century-very early 14th century. It is also important that it can be used for some light combat ( I think DSA will be suitable for that).
I thought since it was described as a replica of an authentic piece, that it would fit the bill, but now it seems different.
Some more thoughts on the pommel, guard and handle?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 20:25:35 GMT
Don't be put off by that. For $250 you won't find a sword 100% historically accurate and suited for reenactment. General shape of this sword is acceptable. Bulky guard is a part of Darksword's policy of a making swords tough and durable as possible.
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SlayerofDarkness
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Feb 16, 2009 22:37:02 GMT
Yeah, DSA's can take HEAVY combat with no problem, so no worries about light combat, mate. -Slayer
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 23:27:36 GMT
Thanks guys for the replies. I wasn't expecting a 100% accurate sword that can have some beating for the price (about $200 including shipping), but I will be glad if it can have some beating, don't handle like a crowbar and looks OK for 13th century. So I guess this sword will do the trick, no?
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Post by ShooterMike on Feb 17, 2009 0:22:38 GMT
The DSA product description ends with: ...this version was reproduced from an example found in the Tower of London’s Wallace collection. Anyone have any idea of which sword this one is a "reproduction of" from the Wallace Collection? I think comparisons might be interesting, since it actually says "...reproduced from an example..." Might be interesting?... I agree that its general lines say "Type XII", but the blade and overall size of the sword suggest, as Hotspur indicated, a Type XIV without much profile taper. The guard is very bulky, but that can certainly be addressed at the grinder, especially if it is one with a threaded tang. The rest of the hilt isn't so bad. I think it would be fine for reenactment. The only drawback for light stage combat is the listed 3lbs 5ozs weight. That's a MASSIVE CHUNK for something so small. One last thing. If it has the threaded tang/screw-on pommel, these swords have a lot of extra metal that can be removed to bring them down to fighting weight. And the heat treat seems to be uniformly very good. So no worries about ruining the temper, etc. Good luck and keep us informed on how you like it, please?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2009 2:43:21 GMT
That tip doesn't look lenticular to me. It looks like a diamond tip that I have seen in all the DSA swords I have seen so far...which makes the blade closer to an XVIII then a XII or a XIV. And while the size is like a XIV, I agree with shootermike that the profile is closer to a XII then a XIV. If that central ridgeline is just the picture and this has a lenticular tip, I would say XII...if diamond tip, then XVIII.
As for DSA and light stage combat...yeah no issues there. However please note that the new DSA have 1mm edges now instead of the old 2mm edge so it will chew up other people's swords unless you and the person you fighting against are very good...please make sure that everyone involved realizes this...or you may end up with some very angry people with a sharp pointy object in their hand.
As for DSA and not stage combat...please note that the tip is sharp and the sword is stiff...and is not really a sword one should use for this purpose. If you need a sword for this, forget getting a costum piece and sparring sword in one...you need two seperate swords.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2009 3:26:09 GMT
Shoot, I have a Gen2 12th century sword with the same problem, it is supposed to be an XIIIA and it had a diamond cross section after the fuller. Just use a dremmel and grind it down. I guarentee if you do a good job, which isn't hard, you will drop three to four ounces! It will handle tons better too! Dremels do wonders! Angle grinder would be even better.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Feb 17, 2009 3:40:33 GMT
If you'd like to reshape something subtle like the cross sectional peak, I'd like to offer a suggestion: Given that these blades are heat treated and you don't want to mess with that; please avoid angle grinders at all costs. Even dremels can build up serious heat. A belt sander can be ok with long strokes, allowing several passes before it heats up, giving you time to detect the heat and dunk it in water intermittantly. Ideally you'd use a file (suggest 2nd cut mill file) and drawfile it. Even that can get hot enough to hurt you. Given that these are hard blades the file will skate at first, roughing it up with a bit of 150grit will help the file bite.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2009 6:42:57 GMT
For a tip regrind, a dremel is okay as long as you take breaks often and dunk it in water...however avoid using an angle grinder like brenno said. Although, once again, a slack belt sander does wonders for something like this if you wanna get it done quickly. Slack belt sander are really nice if you wanna work on swords alot.
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