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Post by shadowhowler on Feb 12, 2009 7:44:01 GMT
I'm assuming there were no photos shared before you bought it? This is why photos are important. One photo, not the best light, you could not clearly see the edge in it. I assumed the edge would be like every other Gen 2 sword I have seen, since he said the blade had never been used.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2009 8:39:35 GMT
I picked up another Generation 2 sword recently second hand... but I have some issues with the edge. Second Hand... looks like the guy you bought it from did a number on it. I think he put a few nicks in it and then tried to grind them out with a stone. I don't think G2 could have possibly sold that sword to him as he says he got it. If he did, he would have sent it right back.
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Post by shadowhowler on Feb 12, 2009 18:17:20 GMT
Update: I directed my seller to this thread, to show him that no one has receaved a sword direct from Clyde/Gen 2 in the condition this one is in... and if they had, they would have sen it back right away. He asked that I ask if anyone has gotten their swords from Gen 2 over 2 years ago... as he says that Clyde has made a lot of improvements in the swords since that time, but that his was before then. I informed him that, Jason at the very least had seen gen 2 swords from before 2 years ago and long before that, since he has been selling them at Arms of Valor for quite some time, and he has never seen one from the factory in this condition. However, I told him I would put forward the question to you all. So... how many of you have had experinces with a gen 2 sword older then 2 years?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2009 18:27:45 GMT
Sorry to see this problem.
I'd not call it a lemon or write it off though. It's ugly, sure, but won't be a problem to fix with a file, a diamond hone, and some sandpaper. Consider it a minor inconvienence that will take a couple hours to correct. Not a problem at all if you were planning in giving it an appleseed edge anyway. The sword can still be in the realm of a good deal here...
+1 on someone screwing up the edge with an Accusharp.
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Post by shadowhowler on Feb 12, 2009 18:34:45 GMT
It's ugly, sure, but won't be a problem to fix with a file, a diamond hone, and some sandpaper. Consider it a minor inconvienence that will take a couple hours to correct. Not a problem at all if you were planning in giving it an appleseed edge anyway. Thats part of my point... All Gen 2 swords I have ever handled or owned already HAD a appleseed edge... stright from the factory. It's kinda the best thing about Gen 2 in this market... they are the only maker I know that does this in the sub 300 pricerange. Every Gen 2 sword I have seen myself had a perfect appleseed edge profile, good blade geomatry. They were not always RAZOR sharp... some were really sharp, other not so much, but they ALL had the right appleseed edge profile. Yeah... I might be able to correct this one... my sharpening experinces is VERY limited, I've only done knives and axes so far, both of which are much easier then swords. However, like you said, it's a couple hours of work I have to put in that I did not expect... as I was expecting the edge to be like all other UNUSED Gen 2 edges I've seen.
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Post by Dave(utilityslave) on Feb 12, 2009 20:00:45 GMT
You shouldn't have to do the work as the sword appears to have been misrepresented so for the price you paid you should get the sword as it was presented. If you don't mind doing the work then the price should be adjusted or the seller should make the sword right or take it back with a full refund to you.
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Post by shadowhowler on Feb 12, 2009 20:04:47 GMT
You shouldn't have to do the work as the sword appears to have been misrepresented so for the price you paid you should get the sword as it was presented. If you don't mind doing the work then the price should be adjusted or the seller should make the sword right or take it back with a full refund to you. Great minds think alike, it would seem. I put forth that very proposition to the seller, giving him the choice. Either allow me to return the sword, or discount it to reflect the work I will have to put into it.
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Post by Dave(utilityslave) on Feb 12, 2009 20:32:47 GMT
Yes, very clever you are I think.
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Post by shadowhowler on Feb 12, 2009 20:36:06 GMT
Yes, very clever you are I think. Youz means I iz r the smartiest? Yahz! I rulz the iNtErWeBz!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2009 13:35:29 GMT
It could be worse. It could be regrinded, would be a pain in the butt but it looks like with a lot of work it could be smoothened out. i'd get a diamond stone and go over the edges grinding it out to make them even and then once it is even, create a new main bevel using either nicholson files or magnetic files. Either way, yah it is bad but looks fixable with enough time and effort. I've seen and done worse to my own blades while learning to sharpen. Oh speaking of not sharp, that 12th Century sword you traded to me did no have the best bevel on it. It cuts paper sure but just batted away bottles. Did cut my fingers a couple of times though! Would not destroy a bottle. I had to go over the edge with 180 to blend it in and now it is a bit better. Shadow, either get your money back from the seller or prepare to spend three or four weekends working on it.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2009 20:46:23 GMT
Three or four weekends?!? Even if you did it by hand, fixing and edge till it's okayish should not take more then 3-4 hours. And gen 2 is pretty soft so I can probably fix the edge on one by hand in 1-2 hours. Now if the angle is horribly botched, it may not be worth fixing the edge and just grind the edge off and make a new one. Even then, it should only add an hour or so of time to the project. And if you have a slack belt sander, you can regrind a new edge in 20 min or less...and you can redo the finish on one in an hour or less.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2009 2:21:08 GMT
It depends Cold. It took me three months to get my Albion Squire fixed but I had a lot of work to do to eliminate the secondary bevel and get it right. I used over twenty files. Some projects take longer than others and it also depends on what kind of tools you use as well as skill. I also did it entirely with hand tools, no power tools.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2009 5:24:20 GMT
Either you were being overly cautious...or you aren't using the right tools if it takes that long. I mean honestly, assuming that the secondary bevel isn't at a horrible angle, a flatbar and sandpaper is all you need to adjust the bevel edge into an appleseed. And if your using 20 files just for that, then your either not using the proper files...or got some really cheap useless ones...or your not clamping down the sword properly so the file can't properly bite. The time estimate I'm giving assumes you have the proper tools and at least the basics of how to sharpen a sword. If this is your first sword, I expect that the process will take about twice what I said...once again assuming you have the proper tools...and you have a method of sharpen that works. The reason it'll take twice as long is you'll make mistakes...and when you do and you realize that it's not working, you should be adjusting to make it work. Not use 20 files. And yes some projects do take longer. The old DSA 2mm edges took me about 8 hours. But some take less. Windlass are a very easy to sharpen and take me no more then 2 hours...by hand using sandpaper and a flatbar. I don't even need a file for windlass blades (and prefer not to use a file as the blade is very soft and you can mess up easily...more control with sandpaper). But if it's taking months, your probably doing something horribly wrong and you should have stopped and thought about it more...or asked for help. Although I am starting to love the slack beltsander for sword edges. It's what albion uses (albiet theirs is a huge 8 footer)...and it makes your life so much easier. And you can make one for less then 60 bucks...much cheaper then even the cheapest 20 files. All you need is a motor, some round metal disks and a frame. A 1 inch belt sander is all you need really...although thicker is better...but 2+ inch metal disks can get expensive(at least at the hardware store...if you can scavange for parts, you can make one for almost nothing). Also if you can't weld metal and have to make a wooden frame, it can get more expensive then as well. Course if you can't make one, you can get something like this... www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=511184And remove the plate under the belt and cut the side plates below the belt line (or remove them entirely if you can), and you now have a slack belt sander...ready for swords. And once again, this is a MUCH better option then 20 files. Of course for those on a budget, you can sharpen swords with just sandpaper and a flatbar...at the cost of extra time...but if it's taking months...please stop and ask for help. I don't mean this as an attack steve, but there really is something wrong with your sharpening expierence and when done right, it should be MUCH less painful then what you went through with your albion. And this forum is full of people who are much better at sharpening then I am who are full of good advice for such things(and I'm not so shoddy myself).
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 3:30:09 GMT
I have thought about a belt sander. I have started using dremels though on other projects however. It was the first properly sharpened sword that I did, the Albion Squire Line Greatsword. I worked on it off and on and sent it out to Albion once to have it straightened, developed a set while sharpening, slight though. I did use two clamps, the bevel originally on the sword was extremely steep and it needed a lot of work to get it right. It is a long story and I'd rather not bore you with the details but it took a lot of work. I was using six inch single cut nicholson files. What kind of flat bar do you use? Just curious.
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Post by shadowhowler on Feb 16, 2009 7:17:25 GMT
I have an 8 inch single cut nicholson file and a large medium grit arkansas stone... nothing eles yet.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2009 2:21:58 GMT
I use a 1"x10" flat bar. It's actually a piece of scrap metal...and you can get them for free at any pick and pull auto junkyard.
Humm odd that the sharpening from albion was so agressive...they are usually very good about their edges.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2009 3:22:37 GMT
No it wasn't there fault, it was a used sword, the previous owner went over it by hand and did a horrible bevel and then to make it worse, I used a Smith's Sharpener. Then I had Albion reground it and then I began my three month long process to get it just perfect. Albion customer service is excellent. I sent the blade to them numerous times for certain defects, once sharpening, twice for straightenning, and they fix it each time with no fights. Amazing company in deed.
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Post by shadowhowler on Feb 17, 2009 6:55:05 GMT
UPDATE. Well, my seller refunded my a part of what I paid for the sword... so all is good on that end. I think what I paid for it now reflects what I have in hand, and the work I'm going to have to do to fix it to make it useable. I'll update again after I try and fix the sword... wish me luck.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2009 7:00:52 GMT
Good luck on this project . Remember, we can help .
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Post by shadowhowler on Feb 17, 2009 7:05:35 GMT
Good luck on this project . Remember, we can help . Well, Tom already has, I'm going to be trying his method. I really like what I have heard about the belt sanders, sounds like a much quicker and smarter way to sharpen things up... but I'm afraid it will be easier to SCREW it up also... so I'm going to try by hand the hard way first.
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