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Post by genocideseth on Jan 20, 2009 1:20:51 GMT
Does anyone know if you can use essential oils to oil a sword? I got a ton of it and am not sure if you can apply it to a sword or not. I know to stay away from the citrus based oils like Bergamot and such, but could I use something, like say... Lavender?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2009 2:45:50 GMT
I had been using motor oil. I spoke with a manufacturer this summer who told me to just use carwax.
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Post by genocideseth on Jan 20, 2009 2:47:11 GMT
Hmmm, that is interesting. And to my knowledge, you can also use Vaseline correct? I may have some laying around...
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2009 2:58:47 GMT
No do not use scented oils of any sort. No matter what, they will have volitile chemicals in em so even if whatever is in em doen't hurt the blade, the oil will evaporate pretty quickly...and leave a nice gunky smelly residue.
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Post by genocideseth on Jan 20, 2009 3:04:09 GMT
All right, thanks. I was wondering about them. I wonder if it is Ok to add a little to mineral oil... You know, to make it smell nice...
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2009 3:44:36 GMT
Don't bother. You never know what exactly is in those flowery smelling oils. If you have mineral oil around just use that. Choji oil is 90% mineral oil.
Otherwise motor oil is a great option - or gun oil or a light grease.
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Post by genocideseth on Jan 20, 2009 4:02:19 GMT
I would prefer it smelling nice, but I reckon motor oil would make it smell mean! And I like a lot of scents others don't, like diesel Gas.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2009 13:12:47 GMT
I love the smell of gun oil. However, if you are putting enough on to smell it without putting your nose up to the blade, you're using too much, so scent shouldn't matter.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2009 14:54:59 GMT
I have been using 3-1 oil and it has a sweet smell to it.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2009 15:40:21 GMT
3-in-1 smells sweet? Hmm odd. I always though it just smelled like a typical lubricant. Anyway like has been said by someone else already - if you're putting enough smelly stuff on your sword to smell it without putting your nose to the blade you're putting too much on.
I use a light gun grease personally and it works wonders for me. 3-in-1 is an alternative others have used to great success but I think it might be a little light for long term storage. Mineral oil is obviously nice and of course choji oil but in both cases I think its light too - you'll have to handle your swords weekly and clean/re-oil them.
I'm all for traditional but since we're talking about Chinese production blades gun oil or motor oil is fine. Heck I'd even use gun grease on a custom - perhaps even a nihonto (now accepting flamers lol).
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2009 16:15:39 GMT
^maybe it is normal, I don't generally go around smelling Lubricants. I can tell you it doesn't smell like Motor Oil.
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Post by genocideseth on Jan 20, 2009 20:38:29 GMT
Since my blade is stored in my room, perhaps I will try mineral oil, 3 in 1 oil or gun grease. Thanks guys!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2009 21:57:42 GMT
After doing some more research, I've decided to switch to a Tuf-Cloth for all my swords (if I can find one in this damn town!).
Unless...does anybody know if it might do wacky things to the finish?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2009 23:57:50 GMT
I use 2 products 1 is a gun oil called break free I use this sparingly. The other is a product marketed by Beeman Air Rifles. It is called MP5 a Metalophilic oil. MP-5's key action is one of penetrating rather than trapping moisture, but it also lubricates very effectively and neutralizes sweat and salt. MP-5 penetrates into the smallest crevices and finally dries to a thin, non-gumming, lubricating film which lasts through almost indefinite storage. It is harmless to steel, non-ferrous metals, wood, airgun seals, and leather. Apply it to external parts, joints, and bores. (Do not use in compression or spring chambers!) Cat. Number 9205--4 oz. dispenser bottle. Cost 5.95 US Metalophilic may just be a marketing term. I use this generously on all my high end air rifles and find it works very well. It has a pleasant smell, at least to me.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2009 0:16:55 GMT
Psychochink - if it won't damage the bluing on a firearm it won't damage the finish of a katana.
Strikermike - the MP5 marketed by Beeman Air Rifles is just one of many products that penetrates etc etc. The product that I use - Militec-1 - does something similar to that however it is designed for use with firearms and not airguns. As such it is also designed to be heat activated/cured as in the heat from the use of the firearm will help the product perform better with continued use. While I'm not entirely sure as to how true this is I can say that I would trust this product on any of my firearms. It works extremely well and doesn't collect dust/grime like normal oil/grease does. Its very long lasting and even the thinnest coating of the grease protects for amazing periods of time.
Really when it comes to swords - any non-volatile oil will suffice. If its a light oil then you'll have to clean and oil often, especially in humid climates. If you use a heavier oil (say motor oil) you'll have more time between cleanings and since its more viscous it tends to stick better to the steel so it'll protect from rust for longer. A light grease is best for long term storage and protection. I use Militec's synthetic gun grease on all swords in my possession.
I've had a few people come and ask me if the swords they bought from me were truly high carbon steel and not stainless because its been a couple years since they've purchased from me and they haven't oiled the swords at all (forgetfulness and neglect) and yet the swords have yet to rust even after much handling of the sword and blade.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2009 0:23:41 GMT
I had been using motor oil. I spoke with a manufacturer this summer who told me to just use carwax. I have been using mequires car wax. Works great, plus the wax coating makes them easier to clean (glue from bottle labels etc don't stick as much either) I'll wax one side of a sword and leave it dry for 20 minutes or so, then wipe off that side and wax the other and 20 minutes later wipe that side off.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2009 0:44:22 GMT
I'm not a big fan of waxing a sword. I'm not entirely sure how that will affect the sword's cutting... therefore I stick with grease.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2009 4:42:26 GMT
I use Vasoline, my father in law an ex-airforce avionics guy said its all they used to preserve precision metals and components in multi-million dollar aircraft so couldnt argue that But light oiling with any mineral oil once a fortnight is a good routine to have. Very zen and medatative really
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Post by genocideseth on Jan 21, 2009 7:51:37 GMT
I have decided on Jonsons baby oil as it was the only thing in the cupboard... I will let you know tomorrow if it rusts.
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SlayerofDarkness
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Jan 21, 2009 15:10:22 GMT
It won't rust that quickly unless the oil promotes rust. I live in a humid climate (Florida), and I had my Hanwei dark Sentinel un-oiled for 3 weeks before it started to show HINTS of rust. Maybe that's not normal ( ), but I don't think that rust forms so quickly as just overnight.
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