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Post by Deleted on Dec 6, 2008 21:06:38 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 7, 2008 15:34:14 GMT
That gap is existant on all Windlass swords, to some extent. It's not good, but it's not awful. It's a byproduct of the low cost of Windlass swords.
Regardless, Windlass' quality has been increasing over the past few years, and their shorter blades have always been pretty good(many of their longer blades are whippy, though on most models it's not a big a problem as people think).
So long as you understand it's not going to handle like an absolute dream, and the hilt is going to need a little work(remove pommel and grip, fill the hole in the grip with epoxy, replace parts. Might want to even peen a bit around the bottom of the tang-slot of the guard) to sturdy things up a bit, I have no doubt that you'll like the sword.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 7, 2008 16:44:27 GMT
...and the hilt is going to need a little work(remove pommel and grip, fill the hole in the grip with epoxy, replace parts. Might want to even peen a bit around the bottom of the tang-slot of the guard) to sturdy things up a bit, I have no doubt that you'll like the sword. Cool, thanks a lot for the help I have three questions though: 1)What kind of epoxy would you reccommend? 2)Do you think this blade has a peened or threaded pommel, I can't completely tell from the picture? 3)How do I "peen a bit around the bottom of the tang-slot of the guard"? much appreciated
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Post by hotspur on Dec 7, 2008 22:54:29 GMT
There are many times when Windlass comes up with a combination that just kind of makes me think ICK. This is one of those moments.
It does look threaded to me and I would use metal wedges and shims to solve fitment problems. That's just me, as it is entirely reversible. Wedges that force the guard tight through the compression of the screw. Flat stock (I've used paperclips) between the grip and tang to keep them from rotating and either a washer thickness as a shim to align the pommel rotation or shorten the grip a smidge. This has been reversible instantly for me in being able to show people at demonstrations. It has been rock solid in use and have used zero glue or hammering.
Peening can mean different things to different people. Some reference the use of any metal displacement as peening but many mean to do so with a hammer and a punch (which would be more accurately called staking). This poster may also have meant to smack it to make the whole surface opening narrower. For instance, I have a sword guard that was staked with hammer and punch or blunt chisel to tighten the blade in the opening. I would call it staking, others might refer to it as peening. Here is one to run past a dictionary or encyclopedia to open debate with.
What happens with the Windlass (and other) threaded tangs is that the threaded section is thicker than the blade tang flat and the blade shoulder itself. This is often the difference between 3/16" and 5/16" thickness. Making the difference apparent is why so many Windlass (and other) fittings often have an odd creak or click until the diffrence has been solved. I'll not say don't say glue of any type, as I have in some applications but my threaded Windlass example was accomplised with dry fitment that forces it tight (without splittng the grip core).
I am honestly not wanting to call that one ugly to someone's favorite but as I began, sometimes Windlass makes me go ICK
Cheers
Hotspur; some do make me go "why oh why did they do that?"
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Post by ShooterMike on Dec 7, 2008 23:40:58 GMT
I am a bit of a like mind with hotspur on this sword. When I initially saw it my exact words were "Oh ICK! Why did they do that?" I don't think it is attractive as is. But I see a potential for real beauty in this piece. If the guard were ground thinner on the back side such that the guard was the same width side-to-side, but about half the thickness front-to-back... Hmmm, might be a big improvement in overall looks? And of course, stake the hole through the guard at final reassembly to make it solid. The pommel is very attractive to me. Not so much the twisted wire wrap. But then, I don't much care for twisted wire wrapped grips with finials, aside from on rapier-like swords with complex guards. Just a personal thing. So I would put rewrapping the grip at the top of the list. If I liked this sword a bit more (and I weren't up to my eyeballs in projects already), I would be very tempted to buy it as a "project sword" and clean up the things I find less attractive. The blade looks very promising. It could turn out to be a real beauty.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2008 0:02:24 GMT
I agree that the blade and pommel are nice and that the guard could use some work, but I always thought that wire wraps were very attractive (that's just me though . However, I have heard that wire wraps are more difficult to assemble than your standard grip and are often done improperly on lower level swords. Is there any truth to this? Also, does Windlass sell alternative guards, or is there somewhere to buy a separate guard that would fit on a windlass piece?
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Post by hotspur on Dec 8, 2008 3:57:31 GMT
I generally like the looks of wire wrapped grips and it was the guard in this case that gives me an ill feeling upon first impression. I like the pommel and blade well enough. What on earth would call them Italian is perhaps my gut reaction. They have domne some nifty looking short swords over the years and even a few I'd vote as Italian. maybe I'm just not reading the ad copy with an open enough mind. The square thick sections of appearance to the guard is just not very fitting (pun) to the rest of the effort.
Cheers
Hotspur; some take me quite a few looks at before I do go ICK
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