I just purchased my first antique sword. It's a 400 year old sword that looks like it say in a closet for a century. Not in the best of condition, but I personally love the nicks and pit marks as it looks like it's been used and shows it's age, and the price wasn't that bad.
That said, I would be curious to know if I should attempt to do any kind of cleaning (i.e. use 3-in-1 or CLP or homemade solution to clean it to make sure it doesn't have dirt or rust, etc). I'm very new to metal in general, so I thought I'd post of some closeup photos of the hilt and blade. If you see anything that looks like it could or should be cleaned off, I'd love to know. I'm not looking to restore the sword or make it look like new (so no sand paper or anything to it), I just want to ensure it's cleaned up and looks as good as possible before sealing it up with something like renaissance wax (or something else if it's better). I do not plan to handle it often, but will want to display it and handle it every so often.
if you have access to disposable gloves (nitrile, latex, etc) then it is a good idea to use them for the de-greasing and waxing steps to prevent the later formation of rusty fingerprints
On the steel I’d use WD-40 and #000 steel wool and nothing more abrasive. For the rest an old tooth brush with a solvent. Gloves, as eastman suggested, is a good idea. Once cleaned I’d suggest white cotton gloves. Renaissance Wax has a good reputation but still make frequent inspections as I’ve had rust to form after using it.
pgandy - did you warm the metal with a hair drier or heat gun before applying the Ren Wax? That is the secret to the best protection. Museums that used that technique had items which survived salt water exposure after Katrina hit the Gulf Coast. Learned it from a museum curator.
Thanks for all the great advice. Time to order some things and do some cleaning and waxing.
Out of curiosity, any of you have experience cleaning lead? I also have an old Byzantium lead cross I've never cleaned but will now and then seal up with renaissance wax as well.
pgandy - did you warm the metal with a hair drier or heat gun before applying the Ren Wax? That is the secret to the best protection. Museums that used that technique had items which survived salt water exposure after Katrina hit the Gulf Coast. Learned it from a museum curator.
I did not warm the metal first. I hadn’t been collecting when I tried that wax and wasn’t aware of that technique at the time. But to tell the truth the price of Renaissance Wax by the time I paid international shipping and custom fees plus the US domestic shipping to get it to my freight forwarder and the wax itself discouraged me from any further investigation and substituted car wax which can be bought locally at a fraction of the price. I still have a little left that I think I’ll try on a kettle helmet as I have nothing to lose.
How about a pic or two of the entire sword? It would give us a better idea of condition, what you have etc.
Sure! It's from early 1600's. I believe it's German made and then imported into Norway. It has been in a family's hands in Bergen (western Norway) for the past 100 years or so before being sold in an auction in Oslo (to me )
On the steel I’d use WD-40 and #000 steel wool and nothing more abrasive. For the rest an old tooth brush with a solvent. Gloves, as eastman suggested, is a good idea. Once cleaned I’d suggest white cotton gloves. Renaissance Wax has a good reputation but still make frequent inspections as I’ve had rust to form after using it.
Would you use WD40 on a soft brush or the 000 steel wool on the wire wrapped grip? I'd like to clean the wrap if I can before sealing it but don't want to hurt the wood. I've been reading that WD40 is good for wood, but CLP is not, so I was wondering if you have experience doing that and then putting wax over it. I am assuming I wouldn't use a solvent first as I don't think that is good for wood, but I don't know for sure. Thanks.
Would you use WD40 on a soft brush or the 000 steel wool on the wire wrapped grip? I'd like to clean the wrap if I can before sealing it but don't want to hurt the wood. I've been reading that WD40 is good for wood, but CLP is not, so I was wondering if you have experience doing that and then putting wax over it. I am assuming I wouldn't use a solvent first as I don't think that is good for wood, but I don't know for sure. Thanks.
I do not know what’s under the wire wrap, leather or wood. The vehicle in WD-40 is a solvent to some degree. I’ve used to remove wax and other unwanted crud. I’ve heard of a man removing paint from his neighbours truck that he’d bought the day before and someone sprayed the truck with a can of aerosol paint during the night. I don’t think that would work if the paint had thoroughly dried though. It seems to me vaguely that I used WD-40 at some point to remove paint that had set but not completely dry. I’d spray a small portion of the hilt or wrap with WD-40 then use a toothbrush to see what happens. I am sure no harm will be done.
nerdthenord: Hi, I'm still alive. Doing well again all things considered
Apr 15, 2024 3:10:36 GMT
samsthe1: Uhlan, thank you for the information.Derek.
Apr 9, 2024 15:25:37 GMT
samsthe1: Uhlan, thank you for the information,
Apr 9, 2024 15:24:56 GMT
mrstabby: Mine gets pressed to the top as well, but that way the tip gets ground of, don't like that either. Unfortunately I'm an edge-perfectionist. Also one wrong move when unsheathing and the throat nicks the edge on either side.
Mar 31, 2024 19:02:10 GMT
AndiTheBarvarian: Perhaps I've got one from the batch for Matt Easton ?!?
Mar 31, 2024 18:22:59 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian: When I draw the saber it's automatically pressed with the spine to the scabbard so there's space for the edge to not touch the scabbard. When the false edge starts it's released but can be carefully draw completely without touching the scabbard.
Mar 31, 2024 8:10:26 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian: Too little gap for a needle, so also I see no way to get the glue in.
Mar 31, 2024 8:02:34 GMT
mrstabby: I was easily able to poke through the glue on all of my Windlass swords/daggers, then it just seems to wick in forever, it never was thick. I can't imagine how there isn't any dulling though, unless yours is less wide or the scabbard is bigger.
Mar 31, 2024 7:04:12 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian: There's not really an opening on mine, very good fit of guard and blade and some glue or epoxy in it. Since my scabbard doesn't dull the edge too I seem to be on the lucky side with Windlass this time.
Mar 31, 2024 1:25:54 GMT
mrstabby: Maybe it screams in pain now, but I like it..
Mar 30, 2024 20:35:26 GMT
mrstabby: PSA: Give your Windlass swords some superglue, they appreciate it. My 1796 drank 4g through the opening between guard and blade, now it rings much louder and vibrates much less.
Mar 30, 2024 20:34:25 GMT
AndiTheBarvarian: Not easy to smell without a nose...
Mar 30, 2024 3:17:59 GMT
mrstabby: "Sorry Mr. Johnson, I need to store my sword for a few hundread years until someone worthy comes and gets it, mind if I stick it here?"
Mar 29, 2024 18:54:11 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian: First you have to try getting it into!
Mar 29, 2024 14:52:50 GMT
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mrstabby: What now, pulling a sword out of Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson? Intriguing!
Mar 29, 2024 12:49:08 GMT
AndiTheBarvarian: Dwayne Johnson disagrees!
Mar 28, 2024 19:38:14 GMT
rschuch: As anyone who's seen Excalibur knows, getting the sword INTO the rock isn't the problem, it's getting it back out again.
Mar 28, 2024 19:13:13 GMT
durinnmcfurren: Movie turned out better than it had any right to be considering how many times a blade was shoved into rock. Yes, even once would be too much, but it was way more than once.
Mar 16, 2024 22:36:55 GMT
Ramses1079: Yeah me too, which is a shame because he’s a good author. I guess that’s like when your favorite band releases a new album, and there’s always one or two tracks that you’re like “what were they thinking?”
Mar 16, 2024 19:12:10 GMT
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