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Post by althesmith on Nov 12, 2022 0:13:19 GMT
Has anyone here tried building a steel scabbard from scratch? Any tips as to starting material?
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Post by glendon on Nov 12, 2022 1:17:57 GMT
Why a steel scabbard? What shape, curved or straight?
Historical replica, or modern practical?
For straight or slightly curved modern carrying tools, I've used a vise to gently squash cheap shower curtain rods, with good effect. Crimp the far end for an inch or so to close it, or to maintain shape, insert and glue a shaped block of wood. I spraypaint mine or cover with glued cloth. Again, ahistoric... but there's a feeling within me that screams "using what works" is absolutely true to the spirit of history.
On that note, if you want something inorganic that won't decay or break easily, I have been making scabbards out of used house vinyl siding. Its resistant to environmental factors, it can be glued, its thin and tough and flexible, its easily worked, its light in weight, and it won't dull a blade. Its also dead cheap (and I mean "free" if you know a guy who does siding).
Cheers!
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Nov 12, 2022 2:07:36 GMT
FWIW Steel scabbards are hard on a keen edge.
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Post by althesmith on Nov 12, 2022 2:27:14 GMT
FWIW Steel scabbards are hard on a keen edge. I'm planning on using a liner but I want a period accurate look for a highly curved sabre. Have you experience doing this?
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Nov 12, 2022 14:03:29 GMT
I am by no means trying to discourage you. Consider the following as informational only for you to work with. By liner I assume that you mean two wooden pieces inserted in the scabbard sandwiching the blade. In that case the liner will be most effective at reducing the rattle. And since the blade’s movement is restricted, the edge should last longer. However, since the edge is still free to slide along the steel when drawing and returning the edge is still affected, but less. You might consider a brass throat, although that will not entirely cure the problem. I have a few military repos with steel scabbards and being military reproductions, I’d expect no less. However, in every case I park the scabbards in a corner and display the sabres separately as I do if I take a notion to have a cutting session. A wood core is a better solution, and I have one such sabre/scabbard. I is not common, I think perhaps only general grade officers or superior grade field officers would opt for a brass scabbard. Not at all common but a few did exist. Just my 2¢.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2022 14:09:17 GMT
Permablue paste is a nice product and I have had good success with it. It's easy to apply and easy to remove if you don't like it.
If you ever consider a more gray patina, I have a mustard patina on a steel scabbard that looks fantastic. All one needs to do is slather mustard over the steel and wait for it to darken.
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Post by treeslicer on Nov 12, 2022 22:00:09 GMT
Has anyone here tried building a steel scabbard from scratch? Any tips as to starting material? I recognize from your username that you are a blacksmith of some description. For what you are proposing, that isn't enough, you need to learn sheet-metal as well, and it's a whole different bag of doo-doo. We used to make tubular constructions, similar to what you propose, in shop class in high school (like 55 years ago or so). Something like this requires at least a dozen different specialist tools that you can't easily find any more1. You are into very technical specialist territory here, and the first thing that you will need to do is to create a cantilevered scabbard mandrel2 to form over. IMHO, forget it unless you want to get into really seriously advanced sheet metal fabrication, and set up to sell them. BTW, someone with an expensively equipped machine shop someplace will have already beaten you to it.
Also forget it unless you already have the skills, tools, and experience to make something like an entire gardener's watering can perfectly, from scratch using sheet stock. BTW, I do hope that you weld at a professional level, too.
Footnotes:
2. Such mandrels are also known as "stakes" or "tinsmith's anvils". The prices will make your eyes water. Shapes like you need are custom tools, and you'll have to forge and heat-treat it, unless you want to invest several grand to have it made.
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Post by althesmith on Nov 13, 2022 7:08:51 GMT
I hear what everyone is saying. Rather daunting- I've been forging blades for 30 years and I still haven't accumulated all the tools I'd like for that! Sheet metal is something I haven't had a whole lot of interest in to date and my hat's off to the guys who do it for a living- raising and dishing while not strangers to my vocabulary aren't of very high usage either. Gods of the forge know it took me long enough to learn proper forgewelding of billets.
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