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Post by althesmith on Oct 20, 2022 21:44:56 GMT
Does anyone know how these grips were wired under the sword backstrap? The grooves on these weren't spiraled so I don't think they could be wrapped around the same way, unless on the back there was some kind of tack arrangement or staples holding the wire wrap down?
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Post by jimmythedonut on Oct 21, 2022 14:58:35 GMT
Does anyone know how these grips were wired under the sword backstrap? The grooves on these weren't spiraled so I don't think they could be wrapped around the same way, unless on the back there was some kind of tack arrangement or staples holding the wire wrap down? Hi I hope I can help. Even if they dont appear spiraled in the front, the backstrap area would have them take a step down, so to speak, like a series of diagonal lines from one row to the next. I am going to use a photo from the IASC facebook group (not my own but I hope the owner doesn't mind) that I hope help demonstrates this) that is a 1796 LC and also a photo of my yet to be restored 1892 Patent hilt that I hope shows what I mean. As you can see on my patent hilt, the grip wire appears to be straight across, but when you look at the back you can see the step down. Cheers!
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Post by pellius on Oct 21, 2022 15:49:23 GMT
Thanks for the outstanding photos and explanation.
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Post by althesmith on Oct 21, 2022 16:07:28 GMT
Many thanks for the photos.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 21, 2022 18:27:15 GMT
I would like to add my thanks also.
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Post by jimmythedonut on Oct 22, 2022 3:04:56 GMT
I just realized this is a good explanation how the Wilkinson Double Nut (yes go ahead and laugh it's OK I did too) system works. You have a robust nut that holds the grip to the blade. Then you put the backstrap over that and affix another more decorative screw or nut on top of that. That hidden inside nut has to be on there super tight. I've seen this on all models of swords not just patent hilts and I will be trying to re-wire a Patent Hilt 1896 pattern next year. God willing I have the patience to try and unscrew a flush fit checkered circle though.
I find it somewhat ironic that one would ASSUME that a screw assembly sword is in some ways cheaper or more indicative of inferior mass production. But peening was the overwhelmingly popular method and outside of the Italians and the 1833, 1855, and 1888 of their swords, screw assembly hilts seem to be more of an exclusive for the nicer British swords.
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Post by pellius on Oct 22, 2022 3:41:22 GMT
Hahaha!
Also, weren’t the Prussian artillery progeny of the 1811 Blucher, the Argentine 1898, and the Persian 1909’s all screw hilts? I could be remembering wrong; I’m sleepy.
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Post by jimmythedonut on Oct 22, 2022 5:20:42 GMT
I have none of those but God I wish I had an 1873 with that stout blade, all I've got is a flat tip WWI era artillery sword which just feels too dainty in my hands. Pino probably has 100 of those laying around, he'd be the best bet
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 22, 2022 13:54:52 GMT
I prefer a threaded tang, assuming it is properly done, although granted a peen appears more popular. With a threaded pommel the sword can be disassembled if necessary. For an example sharpening. I find it much easier to sharpen a bare blade. But more importantly if the blade and grip develop a play it is easier to correct with a threaded tang. I’ve repaired both types and the threaded pommel is by far the easiest. I believe that the modern manufacturers sometimes get hold of improperly or not fully cured wood that tend to shrink creating issues.
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